Hi any one know about this trans ?? I bought a rebuilt trans and installed it dropped down the converter and had to pull it forward to bolt to fly wheel . With that said after I topped fluid and started in any gear with brake applied or throttle it sounds like a power steering pump with no fluid

Call the shop they said "I stacked the pump " now I don't understand how, I could have done this with no binding as well as no metal shavings in fluid and it does drive
I do understand that it is possible just looking for some feed back before I shell out more cash to fix the pump .
Any thoughts

 

It depends on what it was rebuilt with. Certain years of the 4L60E used shitty parts, but rebuilt right, it's a good trans.

I don't know how you did that to the pump either, but I know pump failure is very common on that trans, and if the guy who rebuilt it tried to save money...

 

Not catchin your lingo. Explain "dropped down the converter" and "stacked the pump". Been around transmissions for a while never heard those terms.

 

Thanks for the response ! I rebuilt my trans with a gm vet four years ago , but I burned it up pretty bad on a trip I believe pump/valve body starved 3/4 clutch pack so I just swapped it for a reman at a local shop

I have no idea what kind of parts he used.

I installed today cause work was slow and have it almost back out .
The shop owner said "it was on me " when I called I told him I don't understand how this happened and it just don't seem right to me . he has agreed to pull pump off in front of me to see if it's broken due to improper converter installation
To be honest I am still pretty green to drive train
Problems but I have seen converters installed wrong and they don't drive or metal in fluid.

 

Sorry pretty new to this hope this helps setting converter down so you don't brake the pump from forcing trans to block

 

Okay took trans in today . Pulled the pump and looks like converter was riding on the tabs of the pump .

This is where it don't make sense to me

If I stacked it would I still have been able to pull forward to bOlt to fly wheel ? Or is it wrong converter and I pulled it out while bolting to fly wheel

The trans shop agreed to tear down and clean for 50 bucks to help me as long as I bought new converter they would still warranty trans

Just don't seem right

 

Ahh. Im gettin it now. You mean "Seat" the converter. Yes the proper procedure is to fill the converter with high quality trans fluid (Same for the trans). Coat the converter snout with petroleum jelly or trans fluid, then carefully (don't pinch the seal) slide it onto the trans input shaft until it bottoms out once. Then while holding the converter evenly with both "meat hooks" (your hands) you spin it both ways until it seats a second time. Now its properly engaged into the pump. If you don't get that second seating (ka-thunk) your not in the pump. Yes once the case is mated to the block you do need to pull the converter at the flywheel but it should be only 1/2 inch or so at most. It sounds like you have a Chevy converter. The Olds converter needs to have the feet welded to the converter to take up for the extra distance on the Olds application. Ask how I learned this....If you try to install the Chevy style yes the converter snout will not properly engage with the pump and pump and converter damage is inevitable. Sounds like you have the wrong converter. The only other problem I can think of is the whole applications incorrect.
So how are you adapting the 4L60E to an Olds Engine? Or do you have a non Olds engine in there? What computer are you using, just curious. We need specific info like this when trying to help trouble shoot blindly. The 4L60E is a Chevy or Buick. Not sure if the Bravada had it but I think the V6 in that is non Olds any who. The Buick version may have the proper bell housing bolt pattern but it was designed for a longitudinal 6 cylinder. The only mounting difference between the V8 transmissions and the ones mounted to the V6's is the bolt pattern on the bell housing. The V8's use the standard Chevy pattern and the V6's use the Buick pattern. So you must have the two piece case with a Buick bell and (hopefully) V8 internals??? Time to take some measurements sounds like there is too much distance between the engine & trans. Shims can be made. There are more difference in the many versions of 4L60E then I mentioned here but you get the picture somethings not spec-ed out correctly. Try Ross Brothers Automatic Transmissions they should have the answers your looking for? Or do some surfing on the subject as several others have attempted this swap.

 

Sorry this is in my 96 chev truck 350


I think I got the wrong converter from the shop but can't seem to prove it . I think if I didn't seat it right I would have brOke the pump or would have been jammed against the fly wheel . The fact that I was able to Pull converter forward to bolt to fly wheel has me confused
Sorry for the poor explanation of the process

 

oldstata your killing me. I assumed you were discussing Oldsmobile! Thats why we like all the info so were not blindly guessing. But you have to finish the thread when you find the problem post it.

 

I don't think I will be able to the shop pulled the pump apart in front of me to see if there was any damage .
The pump was okay but the trans shop said I mushroomed the tip of the converter when I seated it in correctly .
So they heard my side ( i think wrong converter ) I heard there's ( he thinks i didnt seat propperly ) and we came to this he is tearing down the trans and cleaning it out for fiflty bucks instead of 300.00 and I have to buy a new converter # 2 so I won't void my warranty .
So I was asking more as a 2nd opinion

Sorry about not providing enough info I didnt even realize I didn't provide it tell the last post

 

To "mushroom" the snout of a converter you have to be superman. Thats hardened steel and simply wrongly seating the converter wont do that. Running it not engaged into the pump could but it would have taken out the pump and sent shrapnel throughout the trans. So sounds like their covering up their screw up. Id make them pay for the converter....the correct one. Have them fill it and "Seat' in right in front of you if possible. Or have them show you how it done before leaving their shop.

 

I thought the same thing !!!!! That's why I asked I have installed a few trans and even broke one before that's why I was so confused

 

I had the opposite happen on my 94 'burban - had almost NO room to slide it forward!
Upset me enough, I pulled it down a second time to make sure it was seated - it was, so I put it up, and crossed my fingers!
Worked fine, still running without a problem.
Was a rebuilt trans and converter from a van a friend junked, for $200.

 

Okay got trans in today and good to go !!

I am pretty sure they did infact give me the wrong converter

They met me half way in price and gave me a brand new converter not a reman one

Also it seemed to take two qts less fluid with this converter ?

Thanks for all your input !!

 

Be sure to recheck the fluid after a quick 5 minute run down the road.

 

Update 1000 miles and seems to be sold

Thanks guy for the reinsurance that I wasn't crazy