68' Oldsmobile 98 help
#1
68' Oldsmobile 98 help
Hey, I have a 68' Oldsmobile 98 hearse with a big block 455 that I'm in the process of restoring. She has been running fine but now will not crank. I've changed the coil, distributer cap, and rotater button. She's getting fuel to the carb but apparently no fire. Is there a cranking relay or sensor I am missing? Best I can tell all the wires are corrosion free. Thanks in advance
Last edited by rooster; October 24th, 2015 at 10:54 AM.
#4
So you don't mean to say "It does not crank."
You mean to say, "It cranks, but does not fire up."
Subtle distinction.
As Eric said, check the voltage at the coil (+) terminal when the ignition switch is on.
If no voltage, jumper it to the (+) of the battery and fire 'er up.
- Eric
You mean to say, "It cranks, but does not fire up."
Subtle distinction.
As Eric said, check the voltage at the coil (+) terminal when the ignition switch is on.
If no voltage, jumper it to the (+) of the battery and fire 'er up.
- Eric
#5
#9
#10
Could be a bad condenser, small fire cracker type unit connected to points. If that shorts out, just like grounding the coil wire. If your car was converted to electronic ignation, there is a module under the distributor that fails without warning causing no spark to the plugs.
#11
Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is actually turning while you crank the engine over. That will let you know if distributor is functioning and the drive gear roll pin or timing chain isn't busted.
#12
All the information he needs is in the link I posted.
The OP has not been back since the one day when he posted, so I suspect he's given up, and is asking his neighbor who's an electrician.
- Eric
The OP has not been back since the one day when he posted, so I suspect he's given up, and is asking his neighbor who's an electrician.
- Eric
#15
You understand that the advance curves of whatever replacement distributor you installed will not be correct for this engine, right?
Why not just change or adjust the points?
- Eric
Why not just change or adjust the points?
- Eric
#18
But the distributor itself is nothing but a rod that spins.
If the engine turns the rotor, the car should run.
The advance mechanism may or may not work, but even if it doesn't, the car will still run.
The only things that can create a no-spark condition in a points distributor if the rotor is turning (excluding non-distributor parts, such as rotor, cap, wires, and coil) are bad points, bad condenser, bad points wire (broken or shorting out), and broken points plate ground wire.
Go take a look at the old one and see which one this is. If you can't, then send us photos.
- Eric
If the engine turns the rotor, the car should run.
The advance mechanism may or may not work, but even if it doesn't, the car will still run.
The only things that can create a no-spark condition in a points distributor if the rotor is turning (excluding non-distributor parts, such as rotor, cap, wires, and coil) are bad points, bad condenser, bad points wire (broken or shorting out), and broken points plate ground wire.
Go take a look at the old one and see which one this is. If you can't, then send us photos.
- Eric
#24
Pictures of the distributor that you removed, showing the points, the points plate, and the points wires.
We can figure most things out with enough pictures... And liquor.
- Eric
We can figure most things out with enough pictures... And liquor.
- Eric
#27
Nothing obviously wrong with that points unit, though I can't see the actual contact points, or the rubbing block.
The parts of the distributor that I can see look good, as does the distributor end of the points wire.
I can't see the other end of the wire, though.
I'd say that explains it.
If the rubbing block was a bit worn, and the points had closed, and you didn't set the dwell or even roughly set the gap with a matchbook cover, then you'd be unable to start the car with that distributor.
You need to get a dwell meter, install a new set of points and get the engine running with your old distributor, which should work well, so long as the shaft isn't excessively worn.
Meanwhile you can disassemble, clean, and lubricate it, which always gives one a nice warm feeling.
Eric
The parts of the distributor that I can see look good, as does the distributor end of the points wire.
I can't see the other end of the wire, though.
If the rubbing block was a bit worn, and the points had closed, and you didn't set the dwell or even roughly set the gap with a matchbook cover, then you'd be unable to start the car with that distributor.
You need to get a dwell meter, install a new set of points and get the engine running with your old distributor, which should work well, so long as the shaft isn't excessively worn.
Meanwhile you can disassemble, clean, and lubricate it, which always gives one a nice warm feeling.
Eric
#33
Do not sell that for $3
take it apart, fix the bearings as need be, refresh the grease, polish the shaft, put it back together
it will have the proper curves for your engine.
It is not difficult, esp if the bushings are still OK.
I have the bushing tools, and so can you.
take it apart, fix the bearings as need be, refresh the grease, polish the shaft, put it back together
it will have the proper curves for your engine.
It is not difficult, esp if the bushings are still OK.
I have the bushing tools, and so can you.
#34
I didn't see this.
DO NOT take it back for the core.
I will PayPal you $3, just so you keep it.
I will PayPal you $3, plus shipping, and have you send it to me, so I can keep it and send it to the next person who buys your car.
It sounds like you're new to this. Do not cavalierly throw away original perts that can be used.
- Eric
#35
I would suggest you do some reading on how to tune an old car with emphasis on your old car. Its not that complicated but does require a few specialized tools and a bit of knowledge. I would invest in an inexpensive tach/dwell meter, an inexpensive dial back timing light, a points adjusting tool that fits into the screw through the window in your cap for adjustment, a vacuum gauge, and a feeler gauge. All this can be had for less than you will spend with a mechanic to perform this service for you.
I wouldn't turn your old distributor in for $3.00 either.
I wouldn't turn your old distributor in for $3.00 either.
#36
#37
Have a feeling the points may have closed up from wear, but me Toronado's original distributor would act up sometimes and stall the car. Everything checked good, but it would stutter, stall and then immediately fire back up. After a few months of that boolshat I yanked the distributor and replaced it. Three years later put a Pertronix in and haven't looked back except for the time I pulled it and had it checked on a Sun machine. Even that was because a buddy had bought the Sun machine and we were all putting our distributors on it.
Did you have the detonation problem on the old distributor?
Did you have the detonation problem on the old distributor?
#38
Haha sell parts to next person who buys it. She ain't going anywhere, and for the record I ain't broke so I'm not in a desperate need of the 3 dollars. And yes I'm doing as much research as I can, that's why I'm here