mikeamondo

So... I love Detroit Lead Sleds... and have always enjoyed the 98s and Electras. Spotted a 67 Olds 98 Luxury and the story is that it has 40 something thousand orig miles, rust free body and underside, 'perfect' interior all original, and runs great. Pics look amazing, likely better than the car actually is. Defects... shifter indicator does not move when shifting gears... I understand this is a string/clamp setup.... and there is a spot on the hood that is a previous repair-gone-wrong and needs redone.. he thinks a dent repair... about the size of a plate. Price is around $5k, but it's negotiable.


Thoughts? What to look for? Someone else is supposed to look at it tomorrow, but if it's still there, I'm going to take a look see at the beginning of the week....


Thanks!

oldcutlass

Welcome to the site. From your description the price sounds close. Pictures would help.

MDchanic

Welcome to ClassicOlds.
Without pictures, I can't say much, but I will "half-agree" with Eric on the price: It sounds "close," but high, unless the car really is pristine.
These cars do not have much in the way of resale value, so don't get caught, unless you plan to keep it for a long time.

- Eric

mikeamondo

Hi folks, and thanks for the replies! I posted pics of the car to a fictitious dealership on my own magazine website.... here's the link....


http://www.theautoexpo.com/homepage_...hicle_id=84610


There are a couple exterior pics and an interior.... click on the smaller pics to make them larger. Still thinking about this one.... 394 Rocket engine.

1969w3155

1964 was the last year for the 394, it has a 425. Looks like a good car for the money. I realize that seeing it in person, flaws will be more apparent, so if you can have a look at it first.

oldcutlass

Looks great, is it in your driveway yet?

mikeamondo

I thought 394 seemed small for late 60's... I had a 66 Sedan DeVille many years ago with a 429. Seller clearly lists it with the 394, but most likely he's just miss looked it up. He seems to be a serious car guy, but more high performance and less lead sled.


Love these forums... I think I belong to 10 or 15 different ones... one for each car I've gotten excited about over the last few years!


May take a look Monday... going to let it marinate for another day.... I was hoping maybe to get it for $3500 or $4k... not likely though.

oldcutlass

It would never happen unless you ask. The worst he says is to get off his property or he'll shoot you for attempted horse thieving.

mikeamondo

So.... went to see this car in person today... deals not done yet, but we've agreed on $3k... The body, interior and underside are a great as they look in the pics. Started right up, shifted nice. There is a poorly repaired dent on the hood, a couple rust bubbles around the back window, and the fuel gauge is not working... but other than that, it's pretty nice. I'm planning on getting the car on Tuesday as long as all goes as planned... think I'll start with the fuel gauge. It's pegged at the 3 oclock position... way passed full. Any ideas?

MDchanic

Bad connection, either gauge to sender, or sender to ground (or occasionally a bad sender).

Test by disconnecting the wire in the trunk and grounding it - gauge should go to Empty.

- Eric

oldcutlass

Glad you reached an agreement, hopefully all goes well.

mikeamondo

Thanks for the reply! I'll post some pics if it all works out. By the way.. if it turns out the sender is bad, that involves dropping the tank, right?

Octania

possibly not
on that model the sender may be located on the front tank wall, top half.

Even if the tank has to come out, it looks rustfree so should not be bad to do

onefineride

Nice car for the money. More than likely it has the 425 if it is the original motor. BTW, The 394 is no slouch when it come to performance and torque either.

D. Yaros

I had one of those, same model but gold paint, back in 1969. Most definitely a parade float!

mikeamondo

Well.. I bought this car yesterday! $3k... I couldn't bring him home yet due to the weather.... and it looks like a couple weeks before I can go get it, but that will give me some research and prep time. Its a couple hours from me and has been sitting for a while. I'm thinking and oil change, new plugs and wires, and good once-over before I make the drive. I'm planning on having a thermostat, new hoses and a set of tools in the car, and routing thru towns with auto parts stores. Brake line look nice, no leaks... Anything else I should check on this car before the drive back?

rocketraider

Sure that's not a Town Sedan? that's what the inside door scripts appear to be. TS shared the thin-pillar body with the Luxury Sedan but it was the entry level Ninety Eight. Still a very nicely appointed car for its time but generally had manual windows/seat/etc, as this one does.

Look at the back side of the front seat. If it has a fancy vanity case and lighted mirrors it is an LS. If not, a TS.

mikeamondo

I think you may be right, Rocketraider.... I was surprised by the crank windows when I saw them. But then I thought... power windows in old cars are a pain in the *** anyway.... less buttons, less problems! Now I'm just waiting on a decent few days so I can drive the old boy back to Morgantown... Looks crappy for at least another week...

droldsmorland

Id take a good look at the tires. Any dry rot? just how old are they? Front wheel bearings. Are they dry? Next look at the brakes...the soft lines, the cylinders etc...At min take a real good look at the soft lines before driving it. If they look ok drive it home then change them asap along with a good power bleed of the system. Once home change all fluids. To include trans(full flush not just a pan drop), PS, cooling, rear end etc...IMO drop that tank make sure theres zero crud and the tank sock is there. Then fix the bad ground so the gauge works. Wouldnt hurt to change the fuel filter at the carb before the trip. How far is said trip anyway?

mikeamondo

Thanks for the advice! I had not thought about the brake lines and the fuel filter. Will certainly add those to the list. The tires are fairly new... they look brand new, but I know the car has been sitting for a while... started and driven occasionally, but not regularly. The drive is about 100 miles, so not too bad. I'm ready to park and have it hauled if anything seems amiss along the way....

mikeamondo

Quick question.... would the fuel filter on this car be located in the carb, or should it be inline between the pump and the carb? And if I have rubber lines between the pump and the carb should I change them for metal? Seems to be the advice in other threads....
Thanks!

MDchanic

Fuel filter is in the carb, the fuel line screws into it.

The threads are very easy to damage, so be careful.

Many people install inline fuel filters and rubber fuel lines, and these almost never cause problems...
It's just that when they do, your car becomes an IED.

- Eric

mikeamondo

Thanks for the reply! Is the potential damage to the threads likely caused by cross threading during reinstallation? Since the car is sitting in the seller's garage, and I really need to get it home, I'd really like to avoid anything that could turn into a huge job unless I really need to do it. Maybe I should take the car out for an extended drive and if it's running fine, not worry about the filter until I get back to my place....

droldsmorland

Roll the dice...your call. If in fact someone did put rubber there check it for cracks and signs of leakage...is it very brittle? Then change it(them)...Same goes for all the rubber pieces in the fuel line. There are a few at the tank and a few before the pump. If you replace them which Id recommend be sure you get the exact ID hose and clamps or you could create another problem. The fuel line should tolerate todays crap fuel too so verify that before you purchase. Also change these lines first then run it 10 miles then change the filter. That way you catch any junk from disrupting the lines in the old filter. Fuel systems should not be taken lightly. And yes on the threads at the carb. If anythings even slightly not exactly parallel when re-installing you run the risk of cross threading both the fuel nut into the carb and the fuel line into the nut. If you take your time and have the feel for it it should be fine. The secret is to screw it in like your loosing (counter clockwise) it at first until you feel the starter thread "drop in" then go clock wise by hand until your sure your going into the threads correctly. A dab of oil can help too but the oil can give false start feeling too so be careful. Always use the correct open end on the filter nut. Pay close attention on the direction of the filter and spring. Always use a "line" wrench on the fuel line nut. The fuel line nut is very soft and easily rounded off. A line wrench prevents this for the most part. You'll likely need to soak these items with PD Blaster or Castles "Thrust" to break them loose. When tightening snug both up but dont over tighten. Check for leaks with eng running. Couldn't hurt to check the bolts holding the carb to the intake either. Careful tightening those too, just a smidge here or you can warp the carb. Tighten only enough to stop the leaks then a smidge more. Theres a nylon or coated steel washer that goes between the filter nut and the carb air horn. When you get the correct filter ask for that gasket too. Drop a bottle of "Prolong" in with the oil too. Great product.
Couldnt hurt to have a spare fuel pump and gaskets in the trunk. If its old its a ticking time bomb.

MDchanic

Yes, the threads in the air horn are frequently damaged by improper insertion, which is VERY EASY to do, so when you do it, just go nice and easy, and be sure it's right before putting a wrench on it.

In your situation, I would recommend not messing with it until you get home, but bringing a new filter, a set of flare nut wrenches, and a 1" (if I recall) open end wrench, and if you have a problem, you can always stop and fix it.

- Eric

edit: looks like DrOlds got there first...

oldcutlass

IMHO, your only driving 100 miles. Make sure that it runs decently, brakes work, the fluids and tires are topped, and nothing is leaking. All the stuff discussed in the previous threads can be done at your leisure in the comfort of your own garage.

mikeamondo

Wow... didn't realize there could be so much to changing the fuel filter! I'm thinking if she runs good around the neighborhood I'll head on home and see what happens....


Can I know for sure which filter and fuel pump I will need in advance, without seeing the car, or is it one of those "it could be one of several" deals? And... if I can know which one, where can get them? I'm assuming my local Advance Auto Parts is not stocking '67 Olds parts....


Thanks for the help and replies! I'm looking at Monday to bring it home!

MDchanic

It should be the "short" fuel filter, and almost definitely a non-return fuel pump (I'm not sure when they began to use return lines on the A/C cars).
A return pump can be used on a non-return system by simply capping the return nipple.

Advance Auto, NAPA, Auto Zone, CarQuest, and O'Reilly should have both in stock.

- Eric

rocketraider

If original carb a 67 will have a side fuel inlet like Chevrolets. 68-later used front fuel inlet. Either is easy to strip if not careful.

I always wondered why Rochester didn't put some type of steel or even brass insert in the fuel inlet to avoid thread strippage. Then again the steel well plugs are known to leak after a while, so they may have been trying to avoid a leak point.

Professur

My personal opinion ... I'd look at Uhaul. Whenever I move a vehicle that I'm uncertain of, I go rent a pickup and flatbed trailer from them. Costs about $100 ... and that's a damn sight cheaper than a tow. Locally the trailers don't have winches so the car has to either be running, or you need a few friends. The ease of mind was well worth the price. Having the sidewalls spall off the tires half way home is really gonna take the shine off your new prize.

droldsmorland

Think Safety.... tires, fuel sys, brakes....etc then check for the obvious such as hoses belts.
Buuuuuttttttttt........X2 what the The Professur says... a better point. For a few 100 put it on a uhaul. 100 miles is short cheap trip on a uhaul. Long trip if something goes wrong...catastrophe if the fuel line bursts and sprays down an exhaust pipe or manifold or tire blows at 65mph.
With it on a uhaul you can have piece of mind and then can do all the repairs and inspections we've been drilling into you since the beginning of this thread at your leisure... lol! Also you dont need to register, inspect and put plates on it yet. However Id recommend contacting JC Taylor and getting some classic car insurance on it should something go wrong at least your covered. Ill bet that car will cost you $100/year to insure for 10K.

mikeamondo

Yeah... I've been thinking about the uHaul option. It's one of those head vs heart decisions. I want to drive the car REALLY bad... and I've already got the plates and registration done. But logic says pull it back for safety. Loading would be easy since it's running already, and I've got a $120 or so in a one way rental car anyway to drive it back.... might actually be cheaper to haul it! Lots to think over.


By the way... spark plugs.. AC Delco for GM, right?

MDchanic

If you tow it, you won't have half as many stories afterward, unless you end up with a towing story, which you probably don't want.

- Eric

Oldsmaniac

I dont think U-haul allows their transport trailers to be used for the b body cars. You have to fudge numbers at times to get an A body to go....

I would say if it stops and goes and shifts with no fluid leaks and master cylinder is full go for it but drive like you are hauling bottles of Nitro Glycerine around and you should be good to go. Keep speeds down and stop gingerly.

Professur

If you're already at $120 for a rental car ... I think the discussion is already finished. Do you really want to do all the proposed work in a parking lot with whatever tools you brought ... or in your driveway/garage with all the tools you own, and your beer fridge just steps away?

The Uhaul f-150s are a nice change of pace.

Professur

Just looking, max weight 5200lbs. Wiki puts the 98 at max 4700lbs.

Towed vehicle requirements

• Must not weigh in excess of 5,290 lbs.
• Must have a maximum outside-to-outside tire width of 79.25" Note: outside tire width over 75" must use late-model U-Haul Auto Transport (identifiable by silver galvanized color).
• Must have a maximum wheelbase (distance from front axle to rear axle, usually posted on the driver's side door jamb) of 133 inches.
• Low-hanging equipment on the vehicle being towed such as spoilers, air dams, ground effects, etc., may be damaged by contact with the Auto Transport during loading and unloading. Make sure there is enough clearance for these items.

Just squeaks in under the wire .. but you'd need that 'late model' trailer. That'll likely mean reserving a bit in advance so they can shuffle one to your dealer.

droldsmorland

Read the existing plugs they may be fine. ACs ok, I prefer Autolites in all of my spark ignited vehicles. Cheap, made USA, last longer than ACs.

Oldsmaniac

Ok, I just plugged in the tow info for the 67 98 and it says the Auto Transport will work but I would call them to be sure if the plan is to tow. I know in the past I have been shot down, "will not work" by uhaul plugging in a tow for a B body. When you go to pick up the trailer they plug the numbers in the computer and if it comes back "will not work" you are screwed.

MDchanic

... Unless you have a "friendly" (read: "apathetic") counter person, and you can say, "Did I say '67 Delta?... I meant to say '67 Dart."

I've actually done this with no problem, but the counter person has to just totally not care about his job (which, coincidentally, most UHaul workers don't).

- Eric

mikeamondo

Well... going up on Tuesday to get the car. Going to drive it back... uHaul would be in the mid $200's+ once you pay for the truck, trailer and .69 per mile.... so, I'll check it out top to bottom, change the plugs, oil... then take an extended drive around town. If it all looks good, I'll return the rental car and head home. My insurance covers towing if I need it. Anyway.... two questions.... Amsoil Zrod with zinc.. yes or no? Seems to be mentioned a lot on here. And.... any additives to the gas? Octane boost?
Thanks!