Engine paint
June 10th, 2012, 01:33 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 5
Engine paint
Hello! I am currently rebuilding the original 455 in my 1968 98 hardtop coupe. I am attempting to get as close to stock as I can. I know the main engine color is red. I am having trouble finding information on what color certain engine components should be. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!
June 16th, 2012, 07:58 PM
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Have you looked at VHT products? They have a Rocket Red that looks very close..
http://www.eastwood.com/rocket-red.html
http://www.eastwood.com/rocket-red.html
June 16th, 2012, 08:42 PM
#4
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,244
If engine components for a 98 are colored the same as other Olds engines of the era, this is what I might expect to see under your hood:
brackets for alternator, power steering, A/C, etc - GM Chassis black by Seymour paints. If car doesn't have A/C, then the lower bracket for the alternator should be installed and painted the engine color.
fan - semi-gloss black (I used Dupli-Color)
A/C compressor - semi-flat black (I used Krylon)
voltage regulator cover - gloss black (Dupli-Color again)
alternator - natural aluminum color (I clear-coated mine for extra protection)
pulleys - all GM chassis black
exhaust manifolds - natural cast iron. I bead-blasted my exhaust manifolds and spray-painted them with a high-heat cast blast color. I believe it's also a Seymour Paints product.
There were some brackets that were a natural metal color that I painted a color called "stainless steel" so they wouldn't rust. I don't recall what the brackets for the coil, accelerator cable bracket, and the dash pot were originally but I painted them semi-flat black. They may have been a natural metal color originally but I just don't recall. Parts that are natural metal color could also be cleaned/blasted and clear-coated for rust protection.
Several Olds parts suppliers provide the correct red engine paint. My favorite is Fusick Automotive Products, Inc. (www.fusick.com). See part number EP110S in their on-line catalog.
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
brackets for alternator, power steering, A/C, etc - GM Chassis black by Seymour paints. If car doesn't have A/C, then the lower bracket for the alternator should be installed and painted the engine color.
fan - semi-gloss black (I used Dupli-Color)
A/C compressor - semi-flat black (I used Krylon)
voltage regulator cover - gloss black (Dupli-Color again)
alternator - natural aluminum color (I clear-coated mine for extra protection)
pulleys - all GM chassis black
exhaust manifolds - natural cast iron. I bead-blasted my exhaust manifolds and spray-painted them with a high-heat cast blast color. I believe it's also a Seymour Paints product.
There were some brackets that were a natural metal color that I painted a color called "stainless steel" so they wouldn't rust. I don't recall what the brackets for the coil, accelerator cable bracket, and the dash pot were originally but I painted them semi-flat black. They may have been a natural metal color originally but I just don't recall. Parts that are natural metal color could also be cleaned/blasted and clear-coated for rust protection.
Several Olds parts suppliers provide the correct red engine paint. My favorite is Fusick Automotive Products, Inc. (www.fusick.com). See part number EP110S in their on-line catalog.
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
June 16th, 2012, 08:52 PM
#5
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,282
Engine and aircleaner should be Olds Engine Red. It's available thru several suppliers and is correct for 394, 425 and 455 1961-69.
Accessory brackets and fender wells are mostly 60% gloss black as is the firewall and radiator support.
I've seen A/C compressors both gloss black and flat black.
Power steering pump should be 60% gloss black.
Exhaust manifolds are natural iron color. Use hi-heat cast iron gray to duplicate it.
A/C lines and other aluminum pieces can either be scuffed with a Scotchbrite pad to clean and then clearcoated, or can be sprayed dull aluminum.
A little 0000 steel or brass wool and some lacquer thinner will do amazing things to exposed wires. They'll look like new.
Of all things, WD40 does a nice job of cleaning and softening spark plug wires.
As far as disassembly goes, yes you'll have to take some things apart to get the best job. But, cheap aluminum foil is an outstanding paint mask. It's flexible and can be scrunched around things to keep paint where you want it.
The underhood decals are available from several sources too. Better quality ones come from Fusick and Dr. Decal, and I'm told Inline Tube has some of the best available though I don't know how well they cover the big cars.
Accessory brackets and fender wells are mostly 60% gloss black as is the firewall and radiator support.
I've seen A/C compressors both gloss black and flat black.
Power steering pump should be 60% gloss black.
Exhaust manifolds are natural iron color. Use hi-heat cast iron gray to duplicate it.
A/C lines and other aluminum pieces can either be scuffed with a Scotchbrite pad to clean and then clearcoated, or can be sprayed dull aluminum.
A little 0000 steel or brass wool and some lacquer thinner will do amazing things to exposed wires. They'll look like new.
Of all things, WD40 does a nice job of cleaning and softening spark plug wires.
As far as disassembly goes, yes you'll have to take some things apart to get the best job. But, cheap aluminum foil is an outstanding paint mask. It's flexible and can be scrunched around things to keep paint where you want it.
The underhood decals are available from several sources too. Better quality ones come from Fusick and Dr. Decal, and I'm told Inline Tube has some of the best available though I don't know how well they cover the big cars.
June 16th, 2012, 09:15 PM
#6
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Shouldn't the air cleaner be Olds Air Cleaner Orange?
These are NOT accurate colors, but are quick grabs to show the difference between the air cleaner and the block colors:
Olds Air Cleaner Orange
- Eric
These are NOT accurate colors, but are quick grabs to show the difference between the air cleaner and the block colors:
Olds Air Cleaner Orange
Olds Big Block Red
- Eric
June 17th, 2012, 07:10 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 310
Great post, very informative.
Was the color information on the various parts derived from an Olds specification manual or a very detailed original car?
Whether manual(s), car(s), or both I'd like to correctly redo my engine compartment when I get to that phase of my resto.
Was the color information on the various parts derived from an Olds specification manual or a very detailed original car?
Whether manual(s), car(s), or both I'd like to correctly redo my engine compartment when I get to that phase of my resto.
Last edited by macrover; June 17th, 2012 at 10:51 AM.
June 17th, 2012, 10:02 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Posts: 5
I think you're right ... the "reds" are two different colors. I can find engine red on Fusick's site but can't find air cleaner red/orange anywhere - and that's what I need!
June 17th, 2012, 11:24 AM
#9
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
June 17th, 2012, 01:16 PM
#11
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Holy Toledo!
After my rant about paint can sizes, I just noticed that the Fusick catalogue says their paint comes in 16oz cans!
No wonder I was so annoyed - I must have had that in the back of my mind from reading the catalogue.
I know whom I'm calling tomorrow...
- Eric
After my rant about paint can sizes, I just noticed that the Fusick catalogue says their paint comes in 16oz cans!
No wonder I was so annoyed - I must have had that in the back of my mind from reading the catalogue.
I know whom I'm calling tomorrow...
- Eric
June 17th, 2012, 07:36 PM
#12
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,244
The color info for my '68 4-4-2 was my own documentation as a disassembled (checked for color), cleaned (re-checked for color), painted and reassembled everything. The block and air cleaner are the easiest parts. Most everything else on my car was my judgment call based on what I saw. Somehow, I missed the dashpot bracket and the accelerator cable bracket (didn't document them when I took everything apart) so I just painted them semi-flat black.
GM chassis black does have a gloss element to it. I don't know if it's 60% gloss or 40% gloss, but there is some shine to it. I found that GM chassis black fit the bill for a lot of things under the hood painted black.
Randy C.
GM chassis black does have a gloss element to it. I don't know if it's 60% gloss or 40% gloss, but there is some shine to it. I found that GM chassis black fit the bill for a lot of things under the hood painted black.
Randy C.
June 17th, 2012, 08:40 PM
#13
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,282
After a long period of fading out, maybe, but not on any car I've been involved in restoring.
I've got two AACA and three OCA National 1st place winners to my credit, so we must have done something right underhood. One of those OCA winners won its 1st Junior the first time it was ever shown at a National Meet and went to Senior Preservation in three years which was and still is virtually unheard of.
I've got two AACA and three OCA National 1st place winners to my credit, so we must have done something right underhood. One of those OCA winners won its 1st Junior the first time it was ever shown at a National Meet and went to Senior Preservation in three years which was and still is virtually unheard of.
Last edited by rocketraider; June 17th, 2012 at 08:43 PM.
June 18th, 2012, 03:50 AM
#14
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
If and when I find properly sourced information, I will post it here.
If anyone else has any documentation of the original air cleaner color, other than their own memory, whether the same as engine color or different, please let us know.
- Eric
June 18th, 2012, 11:49 PM
#16
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,244
The fuel pumps I've removed and worked with on almost any GM car are natural metal - no paint on them at all. The "bowl" piece on some appear to have been cad plated before they were crimpted on. I've only worked with fuel pumps in the 68-71 range but that's what I've seen.
Randy C.
Randy C.
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