Re-installing the trunk lock cylinder in a '66 Ninety-Eight

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Old Jun 28, 2024 | 10:00 PM
  #1  
pfriesen's Avatar
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Re-installing the trunk lock cylinder in a '66 Ninety-Eight

Hi guys. I was really hoping to figure this out myself, dammit, but here I am again.

Late last fall, my trunk lock inexplicably stopped working. The key inserted no problem, but wouldn't turn at all. Thankfully my electric push-button switch in the glove box still works, so I had access.

I took the lock out the other day and brought it to a lock specialist. Apparently something was jamming. They cleaned it out, lubed it and it seems to work fine again. But I can't get it back in!

Been struggling with it for more than an hour. I can get that wobbly cylinder shaft to engage with the lock, although that is tricky enough. Once I get the cylinder back in place, though, the retainer with the two screws, located below the cylinder, won't go back in place all the way. The back of it won't sit flush. Not even close. If I pull the cylinder out part of the way, disengaging the shaft from the lock, then the retainer slides up into place, no problem. But then I can't push the cylinder back in. Those two pieces aren't meshing like they are supposed to.

Thanking you in advance for any suggestions.

Is there a trick to this? Should I be trying it with the trunk lid closed? I can't see that making a difference to the positioning of the retainer or the cylinder.

Paul
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 08:22 AM
  #2  
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Are you CERTAIN the retainer is inserted in the correct orientation?
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Fun71
Are you CERTAIN the retainer is inserted in the correct orientation?
Yes, I am quite certain of that. There's really only one way it can go. Two screws.
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 10:16 AM
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Update: I got it!

Here's the "trick": the retainer has two "tabs" for lack of a better word that were interfering with the cylinder. You can only look at this thing through the keyhole. You can slide it up and down to see the shape of the part that encircles the cylinder. I noticed those two tabs were bent inward a little. Probably from me trying to shove the cylinder in without having those tabs in the right position.

Those tabs need to go BEHIND the cylinder.I carefully used a flat screwdriver to try to bend them into a more flat position, reaching through the keyhole, so they would more easily slide behind the cylinder. Tricky, though. Not sure I improved them. But in daylight, with a better overall look at things, (and with a good night's sleep, to boot) I was able to slide the lock in, then ANGLE the retainer so those tabs are encouraged to go where they're supposed to go, behind the cylinder. Two screws to hold it in place and I'm good to go. Lock works like a charm.

Conclusion: sometimes you just need to step away, get some sleep, and try again the next day.

Paul
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 04:11 PM
  #5  
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Glad you have it sorted out. I have one of these cars.

Another thing you can do is adjust the striker square the lock latches onto to get that perfect trunk lid alignment. If yours is right don’t mess with it, but it _is_ adjustable.

Depending on wear and trunk lid fit, you might need to play with it a bit to get the vacuum trunk release to work right. If you decide to make it better (aka mess with it), I gently suggest you take a silver sharpie and mark the position it was in before loosening the bolts. That way you can at least get it back to where it was, if you can’t make it better.

Cheers
Chris
Old Jun 29, 2024 | 04:32 PM
  #6  
pfriesen's Avatar
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Originally Posted by cfair
Glad you have it sorted out. I have one of these cars.

Another thing you can do is adjust the striker square the lock latches onto to get that perfect trunk lid alignment. If yours is right don’t mess with it, but it _is_ adjustable.

Depending on wear and trunk lid fit, you might need to play with it a bit to get the vacuum trunk release to work right. If you decide to make it better (aka mess with it), I gently suggest you take a silver sharpie and mark the position it was in before loosening the bolts. That way you can at least get it back to where it was, if you can’t make it better.

Cheers
Chris
You have entered dangerous terrain, Chris. I've gone through a nightmare with my trunk lid fit. There's a thread about that on here somewhere from a few years ago.

In a nutshell: For years I never had a leak. And then I replaced the weatherstrip. It was torn and tattered in places. Oh, boy.what a mistake that was. Suddenly had water coming in the trunk whenever I washed the car. Went through a few different weatherstrips. Went to body shops for advice, took photos and started a thread on here. Adjusted that strike plate a few times, and FINALLY got the leak to stop. But only with the strike plate adjusted where I have to SLAM the lid down to close the trunk.

I can live with that. It took a pretty good slam before I replaced the rubber, too. It's funny because after I SLAMMED the lid down this morning, I was looking at that strike plate and wondering if I should back it off a bit. I did NOT open that can of worms again. Don't tempt me!

Paul

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