its me again, the crazy Austrian doing oil pan gasket change
#1
its me again, the crazy Austrian doing oil pan gasket change
Hi again,
after I have done most work at body, sheet metal, brakes (twice because of old shoes)
I will have to make the engine stop leaking
I have ordered the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal, is there anything you can tell me about that work ?
Is there anything I have to be very careful ?
Are there any Tips or Tricks for that work ?
710_zps83b9b083.jpg
after I have done most work at body, sheet metal, brakes (twice because of old shoes)
I will have to make the engine stop leaking
I have ordered the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal, is there anything you can tell me about that work ?
Is there anything I have to be very careful ?
Are there any Tips or Tricks for that work ?
710_zps83b9b083.jpg
#4
Most folks attempting these repairs take the engine out to do that. While it's out you may as well address all the seals, possibly think about a general overhaul and then repaint/reinstall.
Best wishes for your project
Best wishes for your project
#5
I have to say, my first step will be to take off the oil pan and make that spot stop leaking
if after that there is still some oil leaking the rear main seal will be the 2nd step to go
"never touch a running system"
Thank you for your wishes, will need them
if after that there is still some oil leaking the rear main seal will be the 2nd step to go
"never touch a running system"
Thank you for your wishes, will need them
#6
Before you go on to the rear main seal drop the flywheel cover and make sure it is the rear main seal that is leaking. If you see oil around the flywheel it is probably leaking if no oil or very little your leak could totally be pan, oil filter housing or timing cover related. Sometimes oil will migrate around and be hard to tell where it is coming from and a rear main seal is a pain to change especially with the engine in the car. Just make sure before you commit to that job...Lost in the fifties ...Tedd
#9
Be careful with the oil pan gasket. The one I bought for my 57 through Rock Auto was not correct. The cork portion was fine but the 2 rubber portions at each end where not right. I was lucky and found an NOS kit on eBay. I had to disconnect the steering tie rods to get the pan out. An extra set of hands helps when your laying on your back.
Mark
Mark
#10
I hope Fusick will send me the correct ones .....
Where did you buy the wrong ones ?
postman just brought them - do you think these are the correct ones ?
oilpangasket_zps7ffe6dde.jpg
Where did you buy the wrong ones ?
postman just brought them - do you think these are the correct ones ?
oilpangasket_zps7ffe6dde.jpg
Last edited by stocki26; April 24th, 2014 at 04:33 AM.
#11
Since yours is a 53 that could very well be the correct gasket, I really don't know. There was some sort of change that happened during 57 mid production which changed the end seals. See my previous postings.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...an-gasket.html
Hope it works out for you. I would make sure you have some Permatex to hold the gaskets on while you try to get it back in place. An extra set of hands is a help.
Mark
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...an-gasket.html
Hope it works out for you. I would make sure you have some Permatex to hold the gaskets on while you try to get it back in place. An extra set of hands is a help.
Mark
#12
Yes, those are the correct pan gaskets. And, yes your rear main seal will be leaking. They always do. They are a b*%&h to fix. I fixed one according to the shop manual with the correct asbestos rope gasket, with the engine on the stand. When I put it back together it leaked worse than when I started. I'm not sure what the trick is, but if it's a minor leak, I would leave it. You could replace the bottom half of the seal pretty easily, but the top half requires removing the crankshaft to do it properly. It's not Oldsmobile's best idea.
Jerry
Jerry
#13
Jerry did you forget to put the two short gaskets (like 1/2 inch long) that fit on the main cap . That is a common mistake they look like scrap gasket junk.
Stocki 26 I used a neoprene gasket in my 55 this time and so far it has worked fine.We did put it in with the engine in the car and it was a total bitch. I couldn't do it my self but my mechanic friend is a contortionist and between the two of us (mostly him) we got er done. How bad is your leak? If mine I would check everything very close before attempting the rear main seal and if I were to do it again I would pull the engine and trans before trying that hassle again....Tedd
Stocki 26 I used a neoprene gasket in my 55 this time and so far it has worked fine.We did put it in with the engine in the car and it was a total bitch. I couldn't do it my self but my mechanic friend is a contortionist and between the two of us (mostly him) we got er done. How bad is your leak? If mine I would check everything very close before attempting the rear main seal and if I were to do it again I would pull the engine and trans before trying that hassle again....Tedd
#14
Jerry did you forget to put the two short gaskets (like 1/2 inch long) that fit on the main cap . That is a common mistake they look like scrap gasket junk.
Stocki 26 I used a neoprene gasket in my 55 this time and so far it has worked fine.We did put it in with the engine in the car and it was a total bitch. I couldn't do it my self but my mechanic friend is a contortionist and between the two of us (mostly him) we got er done. How bad is your leak? If mine I would check everything very close before attempting the rear main seal and if I were to do it again I would pull the engine and trans before trying that hassle again....Tedd
Stocki 26 I used a neoprene gasket in my 55 this time and so far it has worked fine.We did put it in with the engine in the car and it was a total bitch. I couldn't do it my self but my mechanic friend is a contortionist and between the two of us (mostly him) we got er done. How bad is your leak? If mine I would check everything very close before attempting the rear main seal and if I were to do it again I would pull the engine and trans before trying that hassle again....Tedd
I'm not going there again until I have to..
#15
#16
I've spoke with tony at Ross engines, he informed me he used to use orig rear mains on his builds and was getting approx 50 percent of the time seal. He does machining on current rebuilds and doesn't have that problem. Just fyi
#17
Mark
See picture below…hit submit toooo quick...
Last edited by Mark57; April 29th, 2014 at 04:43 PM.
#21
Not to derail the thread, but...
So what?
Good luck Stocki! And I agree: Avoid the rear main seal if at all possible.
- Eric
So what?
Good luck Stocki! And I agree: Avoid the rear main seal if at all possible.
- Eric
#22
its done
Fusick has sent the right material, well done ! Thank you !
as you can see the gasket was the reason for sure
and after driving about 25 mls I can say ... it was the only reason
no more leaking, engine is as dry as some new cars engines are not
Thank you for all the help, has been very nice of you guys
gasket_zpseb6b1dba.jpg
as you can see the gasket was the reason for sure
and after driving about 25 mls I can say ... it was the only reason
no more leaking, engine is as dry as some new cars engines are not
Thank you for all the help, has been very nice of you guys
gasket_zpseb6b1dba.jpg
#25
here an older pic the former owner took in her old home in Arizona :
1953OLDS98015.jpg
#27
#28
Here comes the derailment:
Stocki asked
Most information is provided because the poster belives that it is specifically relevant to the point or the question. I would be interested to know what relevance the poster believed this particular piece of information to have.
- Eric
#29
True, I believe a tip is information, content of materials (rope seal) may be of concern when handling a particular product (asbestos), especially if the owner and person doing the work in question maybe unaware (as some folks obviously are). Performing this work with a part containing a known carcinogen (known to cause cancer) would fall under a safety tip, or things to be careful of. Im unsure if youre looking to clarify, or start an internet fight sir. Some folks are more concerned with safety (I am anyway) I stand by this, if you dont agree thats your choice.
#31
Asbestos is an inert mineral (a rock), which is almost completely nonreactive.
It causes cancer (mesothelioma) and restrictive lung disease (asbestosis) only when inhaled as a dust, and then generally only after decades of daily heavy exposure.
Touching, handling, or even eating it would be entirely harmless, so long as the user did not grind it up and snort it.
There is no need to handle asbestos-containing seals or gaskets in any way differently than you would handle other things, except to avoid breathing any dust from them if they happen to be dry and crumbly (which a rear main seal definitely would not be).
- Eric
It causes cancer (mesothelioma) and restrictive lung disease (asbestosis) only when inhaled as a dust, and then generally only after decades of daily heavy exposure.
Touching, handling, or even eating it would be entirely harmless, so long as the user did not grind it up and snort it.
There is no need to handle asbestos-containing seals or gaskets in any way differently than you would handle other things, except to avoid breathing any dust from them if they happen to be dry and crumbly (which a rear main seal definitely would not be).
- Eric
#33
Are you really serious?
Have you known anyone who worked below deck, or in the shipyard, or in the asbestos industry, back in the forties and fifties?
They worked for twenty, thirty, forty years, every day, in plants and ships where you could SEE the dust in the air.
And they didn't all get sick.
There will be no dust in the bell housing, which, if the seal is bad, will be covered with an oily residue.
Disposing of the old one requires only dropping it into the trash, or chucking it into the bushes.
It is soaked with oil. No dust.
Residual dust in the box of a postulated NOS one? Really?
IF he could find one, and IF he bought one, and IF he stuck his nose in the box and inhaled deeply, like Woody Allen in Annie Hall or Play it Again Sam, he still wouldn't get enough of it all the way down into the alveoli of his lungs to cause a problem.
Aren't there other things in life to worry about?
- Eric
Have you known anyone who worked below deck, or in the shipyard, or in the asbestos industry, back in the forties and fifties?
They worked for twenty, thirty, forty years, every day, in plants and ships where you could SEE the dust in the air.
And they didn't all get sick.
There will be no dust in the bell housing, which, if the seal is bad, will be covered with an oily residue.
Disposing of the old one requires only dropping it into the trash, or chucking it into the bushes.
It is soaked with oil. No dust.
Residual dust in the box of a postulated NOS one? Really?
IF he could find one, and IF he bought one, and IF he stuck his nose in the box and inhaled deeply, like Woody Allen in Annie Hall or Play it Again Sam, he still wouldn't get enough of it all the way down into the alveoli of his lungs to cause a problem.
Aren't there other things in life to worry about?
- Eric
#34
Why is it that an OT argument will always bring a posting to life?
These original rear main seals are not a health hazard, unless you try to eat it.
They are said to have asbestos in them, according to the shop manuals. But they are also very sticky with oil, tar, grease, cosmoline, or some combination of this. There is no powder to inhale.
They are also very hard to get set and trimmed correctly. Hence the fear of leaks.
Back to the beautiful '53 Ninety Eight if you please...
I've had 2 in my life; one was a winter beater back in the '70s, emerald green with a white top, and lot's rust.
The second was royal marine (turquoise) with a white top and the same factory sunvisior. It also had factory air.
Both had the same side window rain vent shades, a nice feature.
I'd buy one again, if I could find one that nice...I'm glad it will be well preserved in Austria, a beautiful country.
The mountains will give that 4-speed Hydramatic a nice workout...
Cheers, Jerry
These original rear main seals are not a health hazard, unless you try to eat it.
They are said to have asbestos in them, according to the shop manuals. But they are also very sticky with oil, tar, grease, cosmoline, or some combination of this. There is no powder to inhale.
They are also very hard to get set and trimmed correctly. Hence the fear of leaks.
Back to the beautiful '53 Ninety Eight if you please...
I've had 2 in my life; one was a winter beater back in the '70s, emerald green with a white top, and lot's rust.
The second was royal marine (turquoise) with a white top and the same factory sunvisior. It also had factory air.
Both had the same side window rain vent shades, a nice feature.
I'd buy one again, if I could find one that nice...I'm glad it will be well preserved in Austria, a beautiful country.
The mountains will give that 4-speed Hydramatic a nice workout...
Cheers, Jerry
Last edited by twintracks; May 8th, 2014 at 11:47 AM.
#35
Wow, Safety is a personal choice. No, Im not that old that I know anyone who worked in shipyards, (I have read enough to be aware of it) and theres plenty of info out there about asbestos. True my points are minor ones, no doubt. Again, its put out to make people aware. You have posted useful info as well. Seems alot folks that have cars of this vintage not only have kids but grandkids runnin around. Would you let yours play with that part or box while you are busy pulling the oil pan, or turned away for a minute, to breath that crap?
The bell area may or may not be ALL wet, Chunks of debris do fall off stirring up dust, Do you know exactly whats in it? When putting a new rear main (rope) in and your under the car, where would that dust settle from the NOS one your installing? Again its just awareness, take it for what its worth. Not everyone here is as knowledgable as yourself on asbestos. For me Ill use a bit more caution when dealing with this area. I may not call the hazmat team out, or wear a respirator, but I will use more caution as I dont want anymore crap entering my system than need be, others can take that and use it however they wish. Yes, there are more things in life to be concerned with, this is minor but something to be aware of, none the less. Im done here.
The bell area may or may not be ALL wet, Chunks of debris do fall off stirring up dust, Do you know exactly whats in it? When putting a new rear main (rope) in and your under the car, where would that dust settle from the NOS one your installing? Again its just awareness, take it for what its worth. Not everyone here is as knowledgable as yourself on asbestos. For me Ill use a bit more caution when dealing with this area. I may not call the hazmat team out, or wear a respirator, but I will use more caution as I dont want anymore crap entering my system than need be, others can take that and use it however they wish. Yes, there are more things in life to be concerned with, this is minor but something to be aware of, none the less. Im done here.
#36
You're not going to suck me into one of these BS p&^$ing contests. To be "right" is just not that important to me.
These do not come in a dusty box. They come stuck to the inside of a wax paper envelope, because they are already pre-soaked with some sort of assembly lube. Once again, there is no dust.
These are the facts from doing the job more than once, not speculation from my imagination.
Stocki, don't let this turn you off from the site. It's not your fault, and it happens all the time.
These do not come in a dusty box. They come stuck to the inside of a wax paper envelope, because they are already pre-soaked with some sort of assembly lube. Once again, there is no dust.
These are the facts from doing the job more than once, not speculation from my imagination.
Stocki, don't let this turn you off from the site. It's not your fault, and it happens all the time.
#37
I also have rolls of asbestos sheeting ("Frost King" brand) that I use sometimes when soldering or doing similar work, which I have no problem letting him use.
I think that this subject has been adequately explored. Others can take it all for what it's worth.
- Eric
#38
You're not going to suck me into one of these BS p&^$ing contests. To be "right" is just not that important to me.
These do not come in a dusty box. They come stuck to the inside of a wax paper envelope, because they are already pre-soaked with some sort of assembly lube. Once again, there is no dust.
These are the facts from doing the job more than once, not speculation from my imagination.
Stocki, don't let this turn you off from the site. It's not your fault, and it happens all the time.
These do not come in a dusty box. They come stuck to the inside of a wax paper envelope, because they are already pre-soaked with some sort of assembly lube. Once again, there is no dust.
These are the facts from doing the job more than once, not speculation from my imagination.
Stocki, don't let this turn you off from the site. It's not your fault, and it happens all the time.
Thanks for the input. I learned something new today about rear main seals. 50s cars are new to me and Im learning all the time. My apologies to the op.
#39
now the Olds is checked, austrian papers are written and we are streetlegal
olds1_zps70b8ccab.jpg
and now rain could stop to let me go for a cruise
olds1_zps70b8ccab.jpg
and now rain could stop to let me go for a cruise