I am a decent mechanic when it comes to 90% of things. My carb is always wet and I am not sure if I should A: rebuild my carb (QudraJet, QuadraJunk, whichever you prefer) B: take it to a shop and have them rebuild it C: buy a new carb.

Keep in mind that it is controlled by the ECM and has an idle stop solinoid and all the fancy crap that the CA regulations made GM put on or however that went. It is an 81 Regency with a 307.


If your answer is A , Is it that hard to do, or is it just about keeping things organized between your kit and your torn apart carb?
If your answer is C , My question is then : Do they make a carb that will bolt on or do I need to replace the intake as well?

 

Find a carb shop that will rebuild then run carb on a test engine to set up emissions, throttle position etc.....It worked for me and I breezed thru NJ emission testing....All ya have to do is unbolt the carb then re-install making a note of all vacuum lines.

 

Wet carb is usually caused by the top plate screws either loose or overtightened and warping the top plate. If the screws are not loose, try 2 top plate gaskets stacked.

I'd try that first and then Oldsmaniac's suggestion.

JMHO

C.J.

 

What if it is leaking by the Accel Pump? Is there a diaphram needing replacement in there like on a TBI. I did one on a suburban but it is a little intimidating on a car like mine with all the extra emissions stuff to just start ripping the carb apart.

 

True enough. Hadn't thought of the accelerator pump. It's easy to change. Nobody makes QJet rebuild kits any more, though. See if you can find an "olde tyme" auto parts store and maybe they can dust one off for you.

C.J.

 

I have rebuilt many Quads with the mixture control (MC) solenoid and they are not that bad. I think AC delco still makes kits for them. The important thing is the lower stop and the upper stop for the mixture control solenoid. You will need a few special tools to turn them, also when adjusting them with the car running. If you decide to do the carb yourself, just make sure you count the turns from bottom on both screws when the carb is apart.

If the throttle shaft is worn excessively, then the carb should probably go to a rebuilder. If you know anyone who works at a GM dealer, some one there probably knows how to rebuild them, and can give you good advice. Good luck with it.

Chris

 

Good point Chris. Don, he is talking about the lower most plate closest to the manifold, if the shaft is worn exessively then you have an air leak that adversely affects the carburetor operation, on old carbs they just run lean, on newer carbs with sensors on the engine it might make the carb run rich but don't quote me on that. At any rate Chris is right. If you do decide to rebuild the carb like Texasred said then I would also add that you could take LOTS of pictures to help you re-plumb all the vaccum and electrical connections when you are done. Good luck.

 

Theres a guy here in San Antonio named Dan Sarvis. He's an Olds man and rebuilds Q-Jets and sets them up. He's done quite a few by mail. He redid the one for my '71, rebushed the throttle shafts and drilled the throttle plates. Very good and very reasonable.

Contact him at Wblue70@aol.com

C.J.

 

Thanks alot people. I appreciate it all. I will let you know how it goes.

 

Ok all I just purchased a ReBuild/Reman Q-Jet for my ride (not here yet).
Well here is the thing (it needs it but) The carb problems I was having Dissappeared, YES DISSAPPEARED (if its spelled right) when I fixed my AIR PUMP. IF you are going to be on the road and doing day to day driving, and your car originally had the AIR system, It needs it to not run RICH. Just to let you know the the Problems all began when I busted a pulley for the AIR PUMP. I did find a replacement and put it on and it 3/4 solved my problems. My carb still leaks (thus the replacement coming). I just thought that I would fire up the old debate about AIR Pumps.

 

From what I understand, AIR pumps were added to introduce air into the exhaust which oxygenated the exhaust gases enough to enable efficient operation of the catylitic converter. Or, did I remember that wrong? At any rate, usually changing/removing something on the newer (post smogger year) cars could adversly effect the operation of the engine. I am not so sure about that AIR pump. Maybe someone else has a better line on this one.

 

It is important to have the AIR system working....It does send air into the head at the exhaust valve outlet which is designed to help burn any unburned gas from the cylinder as it is exhausted. It also sends air thru the air pipe to the converter to help with combustion there as well....A car may run rich in the eyes of the oxygen sensor if the AIR system is not operating and give a check engine light.

 

My check engine light has never come on but my car was running poorly. Is there possibly a problem with my ECM. The light does come on when I start the car (like normal) and when I check the codes I get the old 1-2 blink and nothing else. Any thoughts on that?