SteveRob442

Just picked up a 72 442 with a matching numbers 350, Munice 4-Speed and factory A/C delete in Arizona. Car is pretty good. Hadn't run since 2009 and I had it start up first crank after proper pre-starting procedures. The guy i bought it from threw in a completely assembled and supposedly running 73' block 455 with 1971 G heads motor. I plan to take it apart soon and eventually install that motor in the car with a W-30 intake and aftermarket Edelbrock Heads. Question I have is: I want a good cam like a W-30 but drivable for highway use. I plan to leave the 4-speed in it. I'm currently cleaning the underneath, going through the brake system, installing new shocks all around and changing the rear springs as well. I ordered a new aluminum radiator with two electric fans since I intend to drive it some. I will pick up all original items and wrap them. The car was built in Lansing, MI and lived in storage most of its life being it only has 29,000 miles. I have a good amount of history on the car. I am the fourth owner. It is red with black interior. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Steve R.
Houma, LA.

oldcutlass

Congrats and welcome Steve, post some pics.

Allan R

Welcome aboard,

A 72 442 W29? I'm actually a bit surprised it fired on the first crank after sitting so long. Do you have any documentation that it's a factory 442? Reason I ask is its one of the most cloned cars badged as 442 since there's no way to authenticate it from the VIN or cowl tag.

One of the best things you can do to help with your build is buy the 1972 Oldsmobile Chassis Manual, and the 72 Cutlass Assembly Manual. They both have valuable information about the technical and assembly of your car. Makes it easier to read and do work on the project. Get an original CSM even if it's been well used. The pictures in the references are much better than the reproduced manuals.

Matador red and black interior was a popular color choice. Same as my first 72 Cutlass S. Please post some pics of the car, and start a thread showing the project as it progresses. AC delete was not a factory option.

scottv442

FYI...verify that the 455's crank is drilled for the 4spd. most were not.

anthonyP

Why not just leave the factory 350 with the 4-speed? Much rarer than the now common place 455 4-speed/automatic swap.

Finding a factory Oldsmobile 350 car, especially with a factory 4-speed, is now like seeing a Chevy without an added cowl induction hood.

But, as I'm told, to each his own.

SteveRob442

Thanks!

SteveRob442

Thanks!

SteveRob442

it is thanks

SteveRob442

I am still learning about the car so any advise is appreciated and will not be taken negatively! I had a 72' Cutlass Supreme in high school. It was medium metallic blue w/ black interior. I have the entire history of the car. The first owner kept documents and photos of the car. I have photos of the car dated October 1972. It was shown to be a 442 back then. The floor has been untouched and has the factory built 4-speed opening as designed. I have been a mechanic most of my life and built a few cars. The floor are untouched and original. The car spent most of its life in storage. The first owner passed away maybe a year after buying it. It remained in storage from 1974 all the way to 1989. Then the deceased had a best friend who bought it from the family. He kept it for awhile and stored it as well. I have all the original manuals and booklets that came with the car. The odometer was certified as being 28,962 miles back 11-21-06. I have a copy of that document as well. The person's father I bought it from was an Oldsmobile dealer. He only sold it because he is moving and could not fit the car where he will be residing. The car is very clean and needs little work. I am installing floor insulation and cleaning the underside of the car and painting the rear-end, changing rear shocks and springs, front shocks, new radiator and new 180 degree thermostat, clips mounted for the lug wrench in the truck, new return spring for the clutch, new hood springs. I won't put the 455 in it until next year maybe. I will see how it goes. I don't want to put too much wear on the original
350.

SteveRob442

You know? I kind of agree with that. That is why i am not moving too quick to put the 455 in it anyway. I want to see how things go. The motor sounds really strong. It appears to records and data I have read that is has the .440 lift cam in it (cam part no. 402486). It sure sounds like it! I can't wait to change the gas in the tank with current fuel. It will sound even better. The guy had fuel treatment in the tank and I put some when I arrived as well.

SteveRob442

I guess I should be more clear on my procedure as to how the car started first crank since 2009.
1. I removed all plugs and inspected them. looked good
2. I sprayed penetrating oil in each cylinder and let it set
3. I then sprayed WD-40 in each cylinder and let it set as well
4. I install a new Interstate battery
5. I then had the owner turn it over without plugs. first, it was slightly tight.
6. I had him turn it over again after spraying more penetrate oil and WD-40
7. It freed up and sounded very normal in its rotation
8. I installed the plugs after spraying more WD-40 (it a combustable)
9. I poured fresh gas into the primaries of the carb.
10. I had him crank it. Stared first time
11. The oil created smoke but it cleared within first minute or so.
12, Went check on it yesterday. Started first crank after pumping accelerator 4 times.
13. I will have to clean jets and etc. Idle is not yet stable.

oldcutlass

Was there varnished fuel in the tank? If so I would not run it very much with the old gas as it will gum up the whole engine.

SteveRob442

Good point sir! I am waiting on the new radiator so its will not run at all now. The old radiator is out and waiting on the new one. I am taking all the old fuel out this weekend when i get a chance. I bought a pumping system to suck most of it out. I already brought containers at the shop to do the task. Thanks again.

SteveRob442

I forgot to say, he filled the tank up completely so it would not rust.

SteveRob442

This is a picture of the car. yes the stripe is incorrect, however; it does look good!

SteveRob442

oldcutlass

The tank will probably have to be dropped, bet there is a pile of sludge in it.

SteveRob442

SteveRob442

After I suck most of the old gas out, that is exactly what needs to be done. Thanks

SteveRob442

the old factor rubber is still in the rear bumper space

SteveRob442

SteveRob442

This is one of the photos I have that came with the car. This photo shows hood pins so the hood definitely was changed. I also noted the drivers fender is not original. The crimp ridges are not present on the drivers fender like 72's have. I am sure there is more that it not original to the car but overall, it is a good buy and all in tact. I can work with what I have and its not a rust bucket. I pulled the rear seat out last night and it has only surface rust in some very small areas.

oldcutlass

Overall nice car.

budg

I agree with this. Personally think the 350 is a great engine. I have 60s on mine and have no problem lighting up the tires . Plenty of torque and snap. Congrats on the car, the 72s are my favorite year.

Allan R

I'm guessing the car was in a front end collision. The hood needs the Oldsmobile script added on the LS. W29s had the 442 numbers on the grill, so the Oldsmobile script was added to the left side of hood to identify the brand. That hood appears to be for an AC car from what I can see. Does it have cowl vents at the back? If not it's an AC hood. The left fender is from 1970 and is notably wrong for 1972. It's actually worth some serious coin to someone looking for OEM 1970 fenders. Chances are the bumper, stone shield and left side components were also replaced. Look at the radiator support closely on the left side for tell tale damage.
The lack of rocker stainless is correct, and those wheels are SSII which is a special factory argent color from the factory.
You have a very nice looking car!

joe_padavano

In fact, you can see the Oldsmobile script on the hood in the photo from Oct 1972.

Allan R

I know, that's why I commented on the replacement hood missing it.

patmac

Nice car and find! Enjoy!

oldsuniversew30

cool car !!!!

oldsmobiledave

Welcome and congrats on the car.

Just an FYI there is no such thing as a/c delete on a 72 442. You car simply did not receive the a/c option. You can't delete non standard equipment.

You plan to run Edelbrock heads with a W-30 intake is self defeating. Pick a better intake to match the head glow.

Enjoy your car.

CRUZN 66

Welcome to the group... Nice looking piece of Olds history... 350 4-speed cars are definitely a rarity...

Gary M

the hood could have been replaced for a few different reasons like rust, dented by someone or as stated a fender bender. It looks great and the 350 is a good motor with the 4 speed behind it. Did not notice if yours has posi but definitely recommend that. 455 has more torque which I prefer. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. It will be a sweet ride regardless.

SteveRob442

I found the build card in the rear seat today!
Yes, the left side is an incorrect fender. 72's have the crimp ridge along the fender indention area and the left one does not. I have a friend who owns two true 1970 W-30's and he said the same thing. I also noticed the Oldsmobile emblem missing too. I also noticed the hood in the picture from 10/1972 had hood pins and this one does not. I suspected it was wrecked too. Today, I removed the tank, front seats, carpet and seat belts from their anchor points. The floors are very nice and red just like the outside, however; underneath, way up in the rear shock tower area, in the cross bracket area where the brake line is bulkheaded, I noticed blue paint! The blue paint is in a 3-4 inch area in left and right spots near each corner so to speak. We pulled up the carpets, looked in door jams, inside of the front fender wells and elsewhere and could not find blue paint anywhere. What in the heck?


Getting back to the build card here is what i can read:
Exterior
Broadcast Style Body no. Trim LWR this section
70-03-06 33687 can't see it 940 75 7? I can only see the 7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
A51

12 13 14 15
W-29 This is all I can see. Any clues here?

thanks,

Steve R.

SteveRob442

yes thanks

SteveRob442

thank you Patmac

SteveRob442

I am no rush to put in the 455. The 350 is staying for at least a year or so. Thanks for educating me on the A/C option process.

SteveRob442

Thanks Cruzn!

SteveRob442

The rear-end is a 10 bolt. I checked again to make sure. I am ordering the W-27 cover for it. When I take off the old cover, I will inspect the ring and pinion and see whats in there as well as condition. I think it was in a fender bender. The first owner died like 8 months after he bought it. Then, it stayed in storage until 1989. I believe the second owner actually drove it the most of its miles. The third owner hardly drove it. It over heated from day one when he bought it. He was not mechanically inclined. It did not have a radiator shroud and the thermostat was a 195 degree and the radiator core was blocked up some. Thanks GARY

Allan R

Steve,
The crumple fenders were introduced in 1971, but stock of 1970 fenders were installed on early production 1971 cars. By the time 1972 rolled around the crumple fenders were the only ones being produced and installed for 1972 models.

Your rear end is likely a 2.73:1, which was the standard gear ratio for 1972 Cutlass S, as was the 10 bolt corporate rear.

Nice find on the Fisher broadcast card. IIRC the W29 should be in box 12. That is the official authentication you need for your documentation. The body number on the broadcast card should match the body number on your cowl tag. From the rest of your post, A51 is strato bucket seats, and it looks like your car body was sequenced for build at Lansing Fisher Body Works on March 6 of 72. It would take 2-3 days to build the body and install cabin details and glass before the car was sent to Lansing final assembly. That's why the cowl tag info doesn't match the VIN. Final assembly sequence is the last 6 digits of your VIN.

Your car was built a month before mine at the same plants.

Overheating on a 350 seems a little unusual, even with the 195 t stat. I'd want to take the 350 apart and see if it has suffered and head gasket damage or warped the heads. What kind of documentation do you have to support the overheating, or was it just word of mouth?

joe_padavano

I'm lazy. I'd run a leakdown test first, before any teardown. There are a lot of possible reasons for overheating.