What year frames will match a 1967 cutlass?
November 28th, 2014, 09:15 PM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 3
What year frames will match a 1967 cutlass?
Hello,
My grandpa and I are building a 1967 olds cutlass. Car needs a lot of work, so were doing a frame off build. I need to know what year frames of the cutlass match the 67 style. Thanks guys.
My grandpa and I are building a 1967 olds cutlass. Car needs a lot of work, so were doing a frame off build. I need to know what year frames of the cutlass match the 67 style. Thanks guys.
November 29th, 2014, 07:00 AM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Medford, Oregon
Posts: 13,806
1966 & 67. If your car is a convertible you'll need the fully boxed frame used on convertibles. If not, then both the 2 door and 4 door frames will work, hardtop or post cars.
Henry schooled me on this once, but I'm not sure I remember. All (or most?) other GM A-body cars still used a radiator with the tanks on the top and bottom in 66-67. Olds had gone to tanks on the side, which require a wider space between the front frame rails. So you may have to stick with an Olds frame.
The convertible frames are harder to find. But I've got an extra hardtop frame as do several other members here. If you want to pickup a replacement then I'd encourage you to create a parts wanted thread including your city/state/province. To save on shipping it would be good to find one as close as possible.
Oh yeah, welcome to the site! Please post pictures of your project car when you have time.
John
Henry schooled me on this once, but I'm not sure I remember. All (or most?) other GM A-body cars still used a radiator with the tanks on the top and bottom in 66-67. Olds had gone to tanks on the side, which require a wider space between the front frame rails. So you may have to stick with an Olds frame.
The convertible frames are harder to find. But I've got an extra hardtop frame as do several other members here. If you want to pickup a replacement then I'd encourage you to create a parts wanted thread including your city/state/province. To save on shipping it would be good to find one as close as possible.
Oh yeah, welcome to the site! Please post pictures of your project car when you have time.
John
November 29th, 2014, 09:06 AM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,883
Not quite. 66 frames have only one set of holes for the transmission cross member, and take rear coil springs that are tangential at the top. 67 have two sets of holes, with the rear ones for the Turbo 400 trans, and take rear coils that have pigtails at the top.
November 29th, 2014, 09:20 AM
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 3
My cutlass is a hardtop, so I wont need the fully boxed frame. The frame under the car is bad, but possibly repairable. We have a spare frame that we pulled out from the back yard, but its a 65. I am not sure if that will be usable for my 67. Old schools are a new territory for me, so I will have a lot of new threads with questions regarding my build. I appreciate all input on my questions. I will post pictures soon. I might be in the market for a new frame. So a 65 frame will not work for me?
November 29th, 2014, 11:30 AM
#8
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 48,229
As far as the difference in transmissions mount bolt holes is concerned, the hardtop frames are trivially easy to mod. Simply drill two additional holes on each side in the lower frame flanges for the crossmember in the TH400 position. On a convertible/Vista Cruiser/boxed frame (the boxed frame was available under hardtop cars as the HD frame option), you need to cut off the welded tab on the old frame and weld it to the new one for the crossmember.
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