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New to the site and looking at a Cutlass that my uncle has. Can anyone help me out? Mods, if this isnt the correct spot, let me know.
I am in South Dakota, this would be my first classic car. My uncle wants me to come up with an offer for the car in the pictures. It is a '70 (I believe) Cutlass SX with a 455. I don't have the VIN yet.
being an SX the car is a little rarer than say the cutlass supreme (same body style). To some that makes it more desirable.
I see a car thats gonna need a lot of rust repair, if it runs and the interior is completeish I would say $1500 would be fair from a family member, maybe 2kish from a stranger. if it doesnt run or is missing parts we cant see in the pics those prices go down.
To add a concrete piece of information, in case your uncle needs that, the Collector Car Market Review lists the value of a '70 SX in #5 condition as $2,475.
To clarify what #5 condition is, here is the way it is described on the (randomly chosen) Automotive Mileposts web site:
RESTORABLE May or may not be running; everything on the car needs to be restored; may be missing minor parts, but the major components are there. Any body damage due to collision or rust should be minor; some surface rust may appear, but no holes should be present. The car is structurally sound, but needs cosmetic updating to paint, upholstery and top material, as well as repairs to various mechanical components.
On the same site a Parts Car ("#6") is described as:
Probably not running well, if at all; missing some major as well as minor parts; may have serious body damage due to wreck or rust through. Soft trim and rubber parts are most likely completely ruined from weathering and exposure. This vehicle needs many parts and has deteriorated to the point of not being a good candidate for restoration.
So, it is fair, from what we have seen, to label that car somewhere lower than a 5, but probably better than a parts car, so the $1,500 estimates don't seem too far out of line.
You've got some good advice here. I would like to add though that when my wife and I purchased the cars from my mother in law, no "family" discount was expected or applied. Give him what the general public would pay and in the end you'll feel better about it.
you've got some good advice here. I would like to add though that when my wife and i purchased the cars from my mother in law, no "family" discount was expected or applied. Give him what the general public would pay and in the end you'll feel better about it.
That is what I was thinking too. I would like to give him the full value price and he can decide from there.
The interior is complete that I know of. That's one nice thing about this car. If I stick some money into making it safe and then body work, it would be mostly complete for me to at least drive for a while. It does run strong and he did have it out last year.
Sounds like I better go drive it around for a bit and decide from there.
I don't doubt your uncle or really the legitimacy of the car, but does he have paper work to show the car is in fact an SX? If you do go through the costly work of repairing all the rust and painting it, etc... down the road that paper work might matter to you.
Great advice above. I agree with a $1500 value. It could go for more with it running and driving simply because it is a big block car but I feel that $1500 is a correct price.
Thanks guys. I really do want to find some paperwork and numbers for the car to be sure. His dad bought the car new and it has been all original since. Always good to check out though.
Anyone know if they hid build sheets in these and where it might be
If the car was built at Lansing, which you can tell from the VIN, then there is no build sheet as Lansing was more meticulous about this and didn't leave them in the cars. If it was made at any other plant, it could be anywhere, if there is one at all as there is no guarantee that one was left in every car., with I think the most common location being taped to the top of the gas tank.
