New member from Illinois
June 24th, 2014, 07:47 PM
#1
New member from Illinois
I've been a member of ROP for probably 15 or more years, but there it seems like there is a decline in the information sharing in the recent past. So I decided to stop by here for a visit.
In 1974 my dad bought my mom this 71.
This is the first car I learned to drive in. It was driven until the mid 80's, can't remember when for sure. It had to endure salty winter roads.
My dad and I had talked about restoring it, but neither of us knew what the hell we were doing, sadly he has passed away. About 10 years or so I was going to get started on it, but every time I got started it was sort lived. Forward to this summer. My son went to school at a very highly rated junior college in motorsports. He worked at a body shop that also did mechanical work. He doesn't understand the word can't. He's built his turbo Civic that he autocrosses and drag races and a big *** Cherokee. Last fall we decided we were going to tackle this.
That brings me to this.
We are labeling everything, taking photos, putting every nut and bolt in baggies with a description written on them. We are getting close to taking the body off.
The one thing I really wanted was an OAI hood. I found one on craigslist two weeks ago for $600. It's a fiber concepts hood, which I hope is good. The guy that had it works at a high end body shop in town and is friends of a friend. He said he test fit it on his Cutlass and it fit very well, but he decided to work on his Nova so was selling it. The car isn't rare and I am not concerned with keeping it 100% original.
I'm going to have lots of questions, like these
1. Is $400 a good deal for blasting and powder coating the frame a good deal? Should I just paint it. Do I need to be concerned with trying to do anything with the inside of the frame?
2. When I take the old top off, is there anything to know, any procedure to follow, anything to be careful of?
3. What all do I need to replace on the suspension? I am planning on poly bushings. I want to keep this inexpensive where possible. Anything to watch out for replacing it?
4. Can I get the tool to take the upper windshield trim off someplace like autozone?
The car is much less rusty than I thought. I was worried when we were taking the fenders and windshield trim off, but underneath doesn't look to bad. The car is pretty solid except behind the wheels and here and there. The biggest thing is that the car is very complete, there will be very little I have to replace. I'm all about finding parts at the junkyard that will work, like the Cherokee steering box.
Enough rambling for now. I'll add a few more photos.
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/9.jpg
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/21.jpg
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/23.jpg
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/44.jpg
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/53.jpg
In 1974 my dad bought my mom this 71.
This is the first car I learned to drive in. It was driven until the mid 80's, can't remember when for sure. It had to endure salty winter roads.
My dad and I had talked about restoring it, but neither of us knew what the hell we were doing, sadly he has passed away. About 10 years or so I was going to get started on it, but every time I got started it was sort lived. Forward to this summer. My son went to school at a very highly rated junior college in motorsports. He worked at a body shop that also did mechanical work. He doesn't understand the word can't. He's built his turbo Civic that he autocrosses and drag races and a big *** Cherokee. Last fall we decided we were going to tackle this.That brings me to this.
We are labeling everything, taking photos, putting every nut and bolt in baggies with a description written on them. We are getting close to taking the body off.
The one thing I really wanted was an OAI hood. I found one on craigslist two weeks ago for $600. It's a fiber concepts hood, which I hope is good. The guy that had it works at a high end body shop in town and is friends of a friend. He said he test fit it on his Cutlass and it fit very well, but he decided to work on his Nova so was selling it. The car isn't rare and I am not concerned with keeping it 100% original.
I'm going to have lots of questions, like these
1. Is $400 a good deal for blasting and powder coating the frame a good deal? Should I just paint it. Do I need to be concerned with trying to do anything with the inside of the frame?
2. When I take the old top off, is there anything to know, any procedure to follow, anything to be careful of?
3. What all do I need to replace on the suspension? I am planning on poly bushings. I want to keep this inexpensive where possible. Anything to watch out for replacing it?
4. Can I get the tool to take the upper windshield trim off someplace like autozone?
The car is much less rusty than I thought. I was worried when we were taking the fenders and windshield trim off, but underneath doesn't look to bad. The car is pretty solid except behind the wheels and here and there. The biggest thing is that the car is very complete, there will be very little I have to replace. I'm all about finding parts at the junkyard that will work, like the Cherokee steering box.
Enough rambling for now. I'll add a few more photos.
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/9.jpg
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/21.jpg
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/23.jpg
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/44.jpg
http://dewchugr.home.comcast.net/~dewchugr/resto/53.jpg
June 24th, 2014, 10:11 PM
#2
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Medford, Oregon
Posts: 13,771
Welcome to the site! Sounds like a fun father/son project to me. When you have time read through the build threads to see what others have done. Also, Rob (Lady72nRob71) has some real nice threads when he did his interior and some of the electrical refurbishing for his convertible.
John
John
June 25th, 2014, 04:57 AM
#3
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,806
Welcome to the site, there are a lot of threads you can read on here for most of the info your looking for. There are also plenty of people who can answer most of your questions on the fly. Sounds like a great project.
June 25th, 2014, 12:26 PM
#7
I have more before pictures from a few years ago here, I haven't got other recent ones online yet.
edit: Actually, you can view my photo stream and see new ones as they are posted.
Last edited by DewChugr; June 25th, 2014 at 12:39 PM.
June 25th, 2014, 01:25 PM
#8
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,723
Welcome. Here in northern VA, the going rate to blast and powdercoat a Cutlass frame is about $800, so $400 sounds like a steal.
You might want to consider all the options before committing to poly bushings. They will eliminate unwanted deflection in the suspension, but some people find the ride too uncomfortable. In addition, poly bushings require routine greasing with silicone grease to prevent squeaks. Finally, do not use poly at all eight bushing locations on the rear suspension. The upper control arms are designed to twist slightly as the suspension moves. The stock rubber bushings have enough compliance to allow this movement. Poly bushings do not. Either retain stock rubber at the front of the upper control arms on the rear suspension, or use aftermarket metal ball joint bushings at that location. You only need to do this at the front of the upper arms. Poly is fine at the other locations. Good luck.
You might want to consider all the options before committing to poly bushings. They will eliminate unwanted deflection in the suspension, but some people find the ride too uncomfortable. In addition, poly bushings require routine greasing with silicone grease to prevent squeaks. Finally, do not use poly at all eight bushing locations on the rear suspension. The upper control arms are designed to twist slightly as the suspension moves. The stock rubber bushings have enough compliance to allow this movement. Poly bushings do not. Either retain stock rubber at the front of the upper control arms on the rear suspension, or use aftermarket metal ball joint bushings at that location. You only need to do this at the front of the upper arms. Poly is fine at the other locations. Good luck.
June 25th, 2014, 01:58 PM
#9
Welcome. Here in northern VA, the going rate to blast and powdercoat a Cutlass frame is about $800, so $400 sounds like a steal.
You might want to consider all the options before committing to poly bushings. They will eliminate unwanted deflection in the suspension, but some people find the ride too uncomfortable. In addition, poly bushings require routine greasing with silicone grease to prevent squeaks. Finally, do not use poly at all eight bushing locations on the rear suspension. The upper control arms are designed to twist slightly as the suspension moves. The stock rubber bushings have enough compliance to allow this movement. Poly bushings do not. Either retain stock rubber at the front of the upper control arms on the rear suspension, or use aftermarket metal ball joint bushings at that location. You only need to do this at the front of the upper arms. Poly is fine at the other locations. Good luck.
You might want to consider all the options before committing to poly bushings. They will eliminate unwanted deflection in the suspension, but some people find the ride too uncomfortable. In addition, poly bushings require routine greasing with silicone grease to prevent squeaks. Finally, do not use poly at all eight bushing locations on the rear suspension. The upper control arms are designed to twist slightly as the suspension moves. The stock rubber bushings have enough compliance to allow this movement. Poly bushings do not. Either retain stock rubber at the front of the upper control arms on the rear suspension, or use aftermarket metal ball joint bushings at that location. You only need to do this at the front of the upper arms. Poly is fine at the other locations. Good luck.
I think this shop is cheap compared to others in the area. I just got a set of 17" FJ rims for my 4Runner blasted and coated for $50 each.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
