The Newbie Forum The place where you should introduce yourself. Do not ask technical questions here, use the site forum sections.

New guy with a 1987 Cutlass Build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old December 25th, 2016, 07:13 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
New guy with a 1987 Cutlass Build

Hi guys I'm from the northern part of Illinois by Waukegan and I'm building my first car. It's a 1987 Cutlass Supreme. Motor is going to be from a 350 out of a 67. I just purchased a crank out of a 330. I was planning on stoking it. 3.5". Trans is a 200r4 and it has the regular 7.5 rear end. I'm looking to reach somewhere in the neighborhood of 450hp. I need options. Carb, cam, intake, headers, pistons, and machine work. Should I keep my heads or get new ones? The rear end 12 bolt chevelle...3:73 (what I was thinking about getting) I'm new to this but I'm willing to learn and take advice. I just want it done right, I'm ready to start building! Thanks guys!
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 04:29 AM
  #2  
Registered User
 
Kennybill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Braceville, Ohio
Posts: 1,972
Are you sure it came out of a 1967? 1968 was the first year for the 350. You may already have a 330 crankshaft in that engine, if it is a 1967 engine. The 350 Nodular crankshaft is a strong piece. You don't need a forged 330 crankshaft till your making serious power. Jmo. Good luck.
Kennybill is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 04:49 AM
  #3  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,586
Welcome to the site, we like pics. X2 on the 350 starting in 68, 67 was a 330 in its an Olds engine.
oldcutlass is online now  
Old December 26th, 2016, 05:04 AM
  #4  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Thanks guys. This was the engine I wanted to purchase this week

https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html

I have a 77-80 block in there now but I heard it's weak because it's a windowed main.
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 05:06 AM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
My cutlass






spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 05:08 AM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by Kennybill
Are you sure it came out of a 1967? 1968 was the first year for the 350. You may already have a 330 crankshaft in that engine, if it is a 1967 engine. The 350 Nodular crankshaft is a strong piece. You don't need a forged 330 crankshaft till your making serious power. Jmo. Good luck.
Thank you
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 06:15 AM
  #7  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,366
Originally Posted by spencer83
Thanks guys. This was the engine I wanted to purchase this week

https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html

I have a 77-80 block in there now but I heard it's weak because it's a windowed main.
Welcome. The Craigslist motor is a 350. It just isn't from a 67. The seller is incorrect. The second character of the VIN derivative stamp will tell you the model year of the block.

joe_padavano is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 07:52 AM
  #8  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Welcome. The Craigslist motor is a 350. It just isn't from a 67. The seller is incorrect. The second character of the VIN derivative stamp will tell you the model year of the block.

Thanks, I'll go check it out Thursday.
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 08:01 AM
  #9  
Hookers under Hood
 
76olds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,543
That's a nice 87', I owned an 86 same interior with T-roofs, I miss that car even thou it only had a chebby 305 back in the day.
T-roofs leaked down the a-pillars but only when it rained!!
Good luck on your new found 350, these guys will nail down exactly what you have to work with. I'm sure it will work out for you.
Thanks for posting the pics brings back great memories of the late 80's long gone by.
Cheers
Eric
76olds is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 08:37 AM
  #10  
Olds Fever
 
CRUZN 66's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New York (Upstate)
Posts: 4,443
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Welcome. The Craigslist motor is a 350. It just isn't from a 67. The seller is incorrect.
The seller may not be incorrect... The seller states "Oldsmobile 350 engine, not 100% sure but I think it was made in 1967"... 350 engines were manufactured in 1967 for the 68 model year release... Just saying... Casting number should clarify the actual displacement... Seller may be looking at the casting date...
CRUZN 66 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 09:24 AM
  #11  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,366
Originally Posted by CRUZN 66
The seller may not be incorrect... The seller states "Oldsmobile 350 engine, not 100% sure but I think it was made in 1967"... 350 engines were manufactured in 1967 for the 68 model year release... Just saying... Casting number should clarify the actual displacement... Seller may be looking at the casting date...
I think you are giving the seller WAAAY too much credit. A seller who is informed enough to read both the casting date and the VIN derivative to determine it was a late 1967 casting would have stated as much and would also not have used "not 100% sure". It is FAR more likely that the seller is mistaken. The simplest explanation is usually the correct one. I'll bet it isn't even from the 1968 model year.,
joe_padavano is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 09:35 AM
  #12  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by 76olds
That's a nice 87', I owned an 86 same interior with T-roofs, I miss that car even thou it only had a chebby 305 back in the day.
T-roofs leaked down the a-pillars but only when it rained!!
Good luck on your new found 350, these guys will nail down exactly what you have to work with. I'm sure it will work out for you.
Thanks for posting the pics brings back great memories of the late 80's long gone by.
Cheers
Eric
That's awesome! Im glad that I found it in pretty good condition. I'm sure it will work out. It's a lot to take in but I'm learning. I've been trolling for about a month or so. It's amazing to see how much you guys know. I'm excited. Thank you
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 01:35 PM
  #13  
Registered User
 
Pfiffle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 178
Keep us posted on your progress. I've owned a few G Body's and they are excellent platforms for a build. I had a beautiful Buick Regal that got T Boned and a couple of Cutlass'. As a matter of fact, I have a doner car (1970 4dr 98) that has a high compression 455 waiting for a home in one down the road.
Tom
Pfiffle is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 02:07 PM
  #14  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,366
That 87 looks nice. I'll just suggest that before putting any money into building it, check the rear frame rails behind the axle for rust. This is a know weak spot on these cars, and rust holes there are common. There are repro rear frame rail sections available.
joe_padavano is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 03:20 PM
  #15  
Registered User
 
1969CutlassSBlue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Virginia Beach, Va.
Posts: 6
Hi , welcome here
1969CutlassSBlue is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 05:17 PM
  #16  
Olds Fever
 
CRUZN 66's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New York (Upstate)
Posts: 4,443
As Joe said, the rear frame rails can be an issue... Two main areas for corrosion are the body mount areas between the trunk floor and the frame as well as the rear bumper absorber mounting area... I have also had frames with cracks on the side of the rails in the axle arch areas...
CRUZN 66 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 06:17 PM
  #17  
Forward into the Past
 
Human's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Piedmont Triad NC
Posts: 331
That's a nice, clean Cutlass. The last year for that body style. I really like that two-tone. We don't see too many two-toned cars from that era here in the Southeast. For whatever reason, padded landau roofs were more popular down here.
Human is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 06:32 PM
  #18  
Sammy70 455 Supreme
 
sammy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Port Perry, Ontario
Posts: 3,069
Welcome! I put a 350 olds in my 1985 442 ....with headers, you willl have to change the tranny mount. The mount in a 1970 Cutlass convertible will fit. It allows for the dual pipes to pass...my experience anyway👍
sammy is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 06:45 PM
  #19  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by sammy
Welcome! I put a 350 olds in my 1985 442 ....with headers, you willl have to change the tranny mount. The mount in a 1970 Cutlass convertible will fit. It allows for the dual pipes to pass...my experience anyway👍
I have duals. I forgot to mention that. Straight back no convertor, 40s flowmaster. So I will have to change the tranny mount for headers? I need some good options for my headers. Thanks
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 06:49 PM
  #20  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by Human
That's a nice, clean Cutlass. The last year for that body style. I really like that two-tone. We don't see too many two-toned cars from that era here in the Southeast. For whatever reason, padded landau roofs were more popular down here.
Thanks! 1988 was the last year for these. I really like the two-tone that I have. I'm going to keep it the colors the same. My friend has a salon with the top and sunroof. It's really nice.
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 06:52 PM
  #21  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by 1969CutlassSBlue
Hi , welcome here
Thanks I'm really glad to be here
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 06:57 PM
  #22  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by CRUZN 66
As Joe said, the rear frame rails can be an issue... Two main areas for corrosion are the body mount areas between the trunk floor and the frame as well as the rear bumper absorber mounting area... I have also had frames with cracks on the side of the rails in the axle arch areas...
Everything looked pretty good. A little surface rust but I checked the whole car. It was a great find. No rust by the tops, doors, trunks, or floors. The carpet is even fresh.
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 26th, 2016, 06:58 PM
  #23  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
That 87 looks nice. I'll just suggest that before putting any money into building it, check the rear frame rails behind the axle for rust. This is a know weak spot on these cars, and rust holes there are common. There are repro rear frame rail sections available.
Thank you
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 27th, 2016, 05:01 AM
  #24  
Hookers under Hood
 
76olds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,543
Originally Posted by spencer83
Everything looked pretty good. A little surface rust but I checked the whole car. It was a great find. No rust by the tops, doors, trunks, or floors. The carpet is even fresh.
Sounds like you knew what you were looking for. I agree the rear frames aren't the best for holding up.
You may want to drill a couple 3/8- 1/2 holes near the back of the frame for drain holes, GM's designers/engineers forgot to add them to the design i think.
Sounds like you have a nice solid car to work with, congrats on your purchase.

Eric
76olds is offline  
Old December 27th, 2016, 05:10 AM
  #25  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by 76olds
Sounds like you knew what you were looking for. I agree the rear frames aren't the best for holding up.
You may want to drill a couple 3/8- 1/2 holes near the back of the frame for drain holes, GM's designers/engineers forgot to add them to the design i think.
Sounds like you have a nice solid car to work with, congrats on your purchase.

Eric
That's a good idea, thanks.
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 08:04 AM
  #26  
btw
Smokin' BBQ Member
 
btw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Spencer Mtn, NC
Posts: 709
Congrats on your purchase. There is a good stand of Oldsmobile owners downstate (Peoria/Galesburg) you'll want to get with and a few troll on here. Post some more pictures when you get them and at the first sign of spring - shed the t-tops and get that Olds on the road!


btw is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 08:39 AM
  #27  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by btw
Congrats on your purchase. There is a good stand of Oldsmobile owners downstate (Peoria/Galesburg) you'll want to get with and a few troll on here. Post some more pictures when you get them and at the first sign of spring - shed the t-tops and get that Olds on the road!


I appreciate it. I'm proud of my cutlass, I think I made a good buy. I can't wait until the weather breaks, and yes the tops are coming off!!!
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 09:19 AM
  #28  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
I'm so glad to be on this site, gbodyforum, and rop. I'm learning so much and I couldn't be more thankful. I went to a shop a few months when I bought my car and talked to them about doing some upgrades to my engine and beefing it up. These creeps talked so much trash about my Olds 350. They told me that it would just be easier to find a Chevy 350 and redo that. My heart was broken. Seriously. Then I did some research, watched a ton of videos and found out so many great things about my motor. I will take my time and get my cutlass right. Who cares if it cost a little more, and harder to find parts. This makes the build a little more special if you ask me. That's why I won't do a ls swap, sbc, 455, 403, etc. 350 it is!
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 09:56 AM
  #29  
Forward into the Past
 
Human's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Piedmont Triad NC
Posts: 331
That's just their laziness talking and an excellent indicator that you're better off not doing business with them. It might seem somewhat expedient to drop in a Chevy 350 but is it necessarily the right thing to do? After all, it's a Cutlass, not a Chevelle, and it's supposed to have a Rocket under the hood, not just on the grille.

Originally Posted by spencer83
I'm so glad to be on this site, gbodyforum, and rop. I'm learning so much and I couldn't be more thankful. I went to a shop a few months when I bought my car and talked to them about doing some upgrades to my engine and beefing it up. These creeps talked so much trash about my Olds 350. They told me that it would just be easier to find a Chevy 350 and redo that. My heart was broken. Seriously. Then I did some research, watched a ton of videos and found out so many great things about my motor. I will take my time and get my cutlass right. Who cares if it cost a little more, and harder to find parts. This makes the build a little more special if you ask me. That's why I won't do a ls swap, sbc, 455, 403, etc. 350 it is!
Human is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 10:36 AM
  #30  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by Human
That's just their laziness talking and an excellent indicator that you're better off not doing business with them. It might seem somewhat expedient to drop in a Chevy 350 but is it necessarily the right thing to do? After all, it's a Cutlass, not a Chevelle, and it's supposed to have a Rocket under the hood, not just on the grille.
You're right
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 02:08 PM
  #31  
Registered User
 
ROCKETMAN269V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: South Central Florida
Posts: 2,765
Originally Posted by spencer83
Hi guys I'm from the northern part of Illinois by Waukegan and I'm building my first car. It's a 1987 Cutlass Supreme. Motor is going to be from a 350 out of a 67. I just purchased a crank out of a 330. I was planning on stoking it. 3.5". Trans is a 200r4 and it has the regular 7.5 rear end. I'm looking to reach somewhere in the neighborhood of 450hp. I need options. Carb, cam, intake, headers, pistons, and machine work. Should I keep my heads or get new ones? The rear end 12 bolt chevelle...3:73 (what I was thinking about getting) I'm new to this but I'm willing to learn and take advice. I just want it done right, I'm ready to start building! Thanks guys!
Email sent.
ROCKETMAN269V is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 03:49 PM
  #32  
Chevy budget Olds powered
 
coppercutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elgin, Illinois
Posts: 8,630
Welcome and nice build. Lots of die hard olds guys in that area. Me included. I used to work in Lake bluff. If you ever need a hand let me know. Don 80 rocket works at TnT engines in gurnee. You should hook up with him . Great guy knows his stuff.
coppercutlass is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 05:09 PM
  #33  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
I went to tnt! He wasn't there. I talked to the owner. The son Tom I think. They told me the olds speacialist would love me! I need to talk to him asap
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 05:19 PM
  #34  
Chevy budget Olds powered
 
coppercutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Elgin, Illinois
Posts: 8,630
Then member Dave 67 cutlass freak does amazing port work. He did my cylinder heads up for another 355 olds I am currently building. He's just over the border in wisc. Good luck with the build.
coppercutlass is offline  
Old December 28th, 2016, 05:34 PM
  #35  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
spencer83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 24
Originally Posted by coppercutlass
Then member Dave 67 cutlass freak does amazing port work. He did my cylinder heads up for another 355 olds I am currently building. He's just over the border in wisc. Good luck with the build.
Thank you. I'll keep you posted and everyone else. I really appreciate the help and suggestions.
spencer83 is offline  
Old December 29th, 2016, 07:38 AM
  #36  
Old(s) Fart
 
joe_padavano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,366
Originally Posted by CRUZN 66
The seller may not be incorrect... The seller states "Oldsmobile 350 engine, not 100% sure but I think it was made in 1967"... 350 engines were manufactured in 1967 for the 68 model year release... Just saying... Casting number should clarify the actual displacement... Seller may be looking at the casting date...
Turns out if you zoom in on the first photo in the CL ad, you can see that this "1967" Olds 350 has no. 8 heads.

As usual, the seller is mis-informed.

joe_padavano is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Phoenixsheperd
Electrical
0
August 8th, 2014 05:16 PM
agreen316
Big Blocks
9
December 21st, 2013 06:27 AM
wildwillie1981
Racing and High Performance
5
April 24th, 2013 04:19 PM
major tom
The Newbie Forum
9
April 18th, 2012 01:01 PM
69 442 protour
Big Blocks
7
December 9th, 2006 09:25 PM



Quick Reply: New guy with a 1987 Cutlass Build



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:06 AM.