New guy with a 1987 Cutlass Build
#1
New guy with a 1987 Cutlass Build
Hi guys I'm from the northern part of Illinois by Waukegan and I'm building my first car. It's a 1987 Cutlass Supreme. Motor is going to be from a 350 out of a 67. I just purchased a crank out of a 330. I was planning on stoking it. 3.5". Trans is a 200r4 and it has the regular 7.5 rear end. I'm looking to reach somewhere in the neighborhood of 450hp. I need options. Carb, cam, intake, headers, pistons, and machine work. Should I keep my heads or get new ones? The rear end 12 bolt chevelle...3:73 (what I was thinking about getting) I'm new to this but I'm willing to learn and take advice. I just want it done right, I'm ready to start building! Thanks guys!
#2
Are you sure it came out of a 1967? 1968 was the first year for the 350. You may already have a 330 crankshaft in that engine, if it is a 1967 engine. The 350 Nodular crankshaft is a strong piece. You don't need a forged 330 crankshaft till your making serious power. Jmo. Good luck.
#4
Thanks guys. This was the engine I wanted to purchase this week
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html
I have a 77-80 block in there now but I heard it's weak because it's a windowed main.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html
I have a 77-80 block in there now but I heard it's weak because it's a windowed main.
#6
Are you sure it came out of a 1967? 1968 was the first year for the 350. You may already have a 330 crankshaft in that engine, if it is a 1967 engine. The 350 Nodular crankshaft is a strong piece. You don't need a forged 330 crankshaft till your making serious power. Jmo. Good luck.
#7
Thanks guys. This was the engine I wanted to purchase this week
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html
I have a 77-80 block in there now but I heard it's weak because it's a windowed main.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/5899644061.html
I have a 77-80 block in there now but I heard it's weak because it's a windowed main.
#8
#9
That's a nice 87', I owned an 86 same interior with T-roofs, I miss that car even thou it only had a chebby 305 back in the day.
T-roofs leaked down the a-pillars but only when it rained!!
Good luck on your new found 350, these guys will nail down exactly what you have to work with. I'm sure it will work out for you.
Thanks for posting the pics brings back great memories of the late 80's long gone by.
Cheers
Eric
T-roofs leaked down the a-pillars but only when it rained!!
Good luck on your new found 350, these guys will nail down exactly what you have to work with. I'm sure it will work out for you.
Thanks for posting the pics brings back great memories of the late 80's long gone by.
Cheers
Eric
#10
The seller may not be incorrect... The seller states "Oldsmobile 350 engine, not 100% sure but I think it was made in 1967"... 350 engines were manufactured in 1967 for the 68 model year release... Just saying... Casting number should clarify the actual displacement... Seller may be looking at the casting date...
#11
The seller may not be incorrect... The seller states "Oldsmobile 350 engine, not 100% sure but I think it was made in 1967"... 350 engines were manufactured in 1967 for the 68 model year release... Just saying... Casting number should clarify the actual displacement... Seller may be looking at the casting date...
#12
That's a nice 87', I owned an 86 same interior with T-roofs, I miss that car even thou it only had a chebby 305 back in the day.
T-roofs leaked down the a-pillars but only when it rained!!
Good luck on your new found 350, these guys will nail down exactly what you have to work with. I'm sure it will work out for you.
Thanks for posting the pics brings back great memories of the late 80's long gone by.
Cheers
Eric
T-roofs leaked down the a-pillars but only when it rained!!
Good luck on your new found 350, these guys will nail down exactly what you have to work with. I'm sure it will work out for you.
Thanks for posting the pics brings back great memories of the late 80's long gone by.
Cheers
Eric
#13
Keep us posted on your progress. I've owned a few G Body's and they are excellent platforms for a build. I had a beautiful Buick Regal that got T Boned and a couple of Cutlass'. As a matter of fact, I have a doner car (1970 4dr 98) that has a high compression 455 waiting for a home in one down the road.
Tom
Tom
#14
That 87 looks nice. I'll just suggest that before putting any money into building it, check the rear frame rails behind the axle for rust. This is a know weak spot on these cars, and rust holes there are common. There are repro rear frame rail sections available.
#16
As Joe said, the rear frame rails can be an issue... Two main areas for corrosion are the body mount areas between the trunk floor and the frame as well as the rear bumper absorber mounting area... I have also had frames with cracks on the side of the rails in the axle arch areas...
#17
That's a nice, clean Cutlass. The last year for that body style. I really like that two-tone. We don't see too many two-toned cars from that era here in the Southeast. For whatever reason, padded landau roofs were more popular down here.
#18
Welcome! I put a 350 olds in my 1985 442 ....with headers, you willl have to change the tranny mount. The mount in a 1970 Cutlass convertible will fit. It allows for the dual pipes to pass...my experience anyway👍
#19
I have duals. I forgot to mention that. Straight back no convertor, 40s flowmaster. So I will have to change the tranny mount for headers? I need some good options for my headers. Thanks
#20
Thanks! 1988 was the last year for these. I really like the two-tone that I have. I'm going to keep it the colors the same. My friend has a salon with the top and sunroof. It's really nice.
#22
As Joe said, the rear frame rails can be an issue... Two main areas for corrosion are the body mount areas between the trunk floor and the frame as well as the rear bumper absorber mounting area... I have also had frames with cracks on the side of the rails in the axle arch areas...
#23
Thank you
#24
You may want to drill a couple 3/8- 1/2 holes near the back of the frame for drain holes, GM's designers/engineers forgot to add them to the design i think.
Sounds like you have a nice solid car to work with, congrats on your purchase.
Eric
#25
Sounds like you knew what you were looking for. I agree the rear frames aren't the best for holding up.
You may want to drill a couple 3/8- 1/2 holes near the back of the frame for drain holes, GM's designers/engineers forgot to add them to the design i think.
Sounds like you have a nice solid car to work with, congrats on your purchase.
Eric
You may want to drill a couple 3/8- 1/2 holes near the back of the frame for drain holes, GM's designers/engineers forgot to add them to the design i think.
Sounds like you have a nice solid car to work with, congrats on your purchase.
Eric
#26
Congrats on your purchase. There is a good stand of Oldsmobile owners downstate (Peoria/Galesburg) you'll want to get with and a few troll on here. Post some more pictures when you get them and at the first sign of spring - shed the t-tops and get that Olds on the road!
#27
I appreciate it. I'm proud of my cutlass, I think I made a good buy. I can't wait until the weather breaks, and yes the tops are coming off!!!
#28
I'm so glad to be on this site, gbodyforum, and rop. I'm learning so much and I couldn't be more thankful. I went to a shop a few months when I bought my car and talked to them about doing some upgrades to my engine and beefing it up. These creeps talked so much trash about my Olds 350. They told me that it would just be easier to find a Chevy 350 and redo that. My heart was broken. Seriously. Then I did some research, watched a ton of videos and found out so many great things about my motor. I will take my time and get my cutlass right. Who cares if it cost a little more, and harder to find parts. This makes the build a little more special if you ask me. That's why I won't do a ls swap, sbc, 455, 403, etc. 350 it is!
#29
That's just their laziness talking and an excellent indicator that you're better off not doing business with them. It might seem somewhat expedient to drop in a Chevy 350 but is it necessarily the right thing to do? After all, it's a Cutlass, not a Chevelle, and it's supposed to have a Rocket under the hood, not just on the grille.
I'm so glad to be on this site, gbodyforum, and rop. I'm learning so much and I couldn't be more thankful. I went to a shop a few months when I bought my car and talked to them about doing some upgrades to my engine and beefing it up. These creeps talked so much trash about my Olds 350. They told me that it would just be easier to find a Chevy 350 and redo that. My heart was broken. Seriously. Then I did some research, watched a ton of videos and found out so many great things about my motor. I will take my time and get my cutlass right. Who cares if it cost a little more, and harder to find parts. This makes the build a little more special if you ask me. That's why I won't do a ls swap, sbc, 455, 403, etc. 350 it is!
#30
That's just their laziness talking and an excellent indicator that you're better off not doing business with them. It might seem somewhat expedient to drop in a Chevy 350 but is it necessarily the right thing to do? After all, it's a Cutlass, not a Chevelle, and it's supposed to have a Rocket under the hood, not just on the grille.
#31
Hi guys I'm from the northern part of Illinois by Waukegan and I'm building my first car. It's a 1987 Cutlass Supreme. Motor is going to be from a 350 out of a 67. I just purchased a crank out of a 330. I was planning on stoking it. 3.5". Trans is a 200r4 and it has the regular 7.5 rear end. I'm looking to reach somewhere in the neighborhood of 450hp. I need options. Carb, cam, intake, headers, pistons, and machine work. Should I keep my heads or get new ones? The rear end 12 bolt chevelle...3:73 (what I was thinking about getting) I'm new to this but I'm willing to learn and take advice. I just want it done right, I'm ready to start building! Thanks guys!
#32
Welcome and nice build. Lots of die hard olds guys in that area. Me included. I used to work in Lake bluff. If you ever need a hand let me know. Don 80 rocket works at TnT engines in gurnee. You should hook up with him . Great guy knows his stuff.
#34
Then member Dave 67 cutlass freak does amazing port work. He did my cylinder heads up for another 355 olds I am currently building. He's just over the border in wisc. Good luck with the build.
#35
Thank you. I'll keep you posted and everyone else. I really appreciate the help and suggestions.
#36
The seller may not be incorrect... The seller states "Oldsmobile 350 engine, not 100% sure but I think it was made in 1967"... 350 engines were manufactured in 1967 for the 68 model year release... Just saying... Casting number should clarify the actual displacement... Seller may be looking at the casting date...
As usual, the seller is mis-informed.
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