New to forum from Norcal.
February 1st, 2013, 08:41 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
New to forum from Norcal.
Hello everyone.
Decided to join the forums after having my cutlass for sometime now.
I have a 68 Cutlass S all original.
So far just took the motor out and getting a stock rebuild.
First project as im only 26. Love learning stuff along the way and i also know how helpful the forums can be. Just returned to work so ill be modding again pretty soon. So far its completely stock.
Decided to join the forums after having my cutlass for sometime now.
I have a 68 Cutlass S all original.
So far just took the motor out and getting a stock rebuild.
First project as im only 26. Love learning stuff along the way and i also know how helpful the forums can be. Just returned to work so ill be modding again pretty soon. So far its completely stock.
February 1st, 2013, 08:51 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,722
Welcome aboard
Lots of help here on just about any year any model of Oldsmobile, just ask and someone will chime in with help, and by the way nothing wrong with a stock ride.
Where about in Nor Cal are you located (I reside near Chico) we may have met if you have been to a show or two......Lost in the fifties ....Tedd
Lots of help here on just about any year any model of Oldsmobile, just ask and someone will chime in with help, and by the way nothing wrong with a stock ride.
Where about in Nor Cal are you located (I reside near Chico) we may have met if you have been to a show or two......Lost in the fifties ....Tedd
February 3rd, 2013, 10:30 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
February 3rd, 2013, 10:32 AM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
February 3rd, 2013, 10:34 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
dont know how to attach multiple pics.
IMG_9295.jpg
IMG_9295.jpg
February 3rd, 2013, 10:41 AM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
THank you everyone. I will have a lot of questions about the car.
Also im from pittsburg,ca
When i bought the car he said it had a blown head gasket. So i took the heads off and had them redone. Then i noticed the oil looked like chocolate milk. The motor is at a local machine shop. Just doing a stock rebuild with a cam 1 step higher than the RV. Again i dont know too much so i am learning along the way.
I would like to keep everything stock except for the suspension. I have looked around and found a few brands like Hotchkis, Global West, and UMI. I was thinking tubular control arms and coilovers. Along with sway bars and bushings. Since the motor is completey out i was thinking about removing the frame from the chassis.
Mechanicaly i can do most of it. Just need someone to guide me or show me a few steps. I also have a decent amount of tools.
Appreciate the feed back and thank you for the support guys.
Also im from pittsburg,ca
When i bought the car he said it had a blown head gasket. So i took the heads off and had them redone. Then i noticed the oil looked like chocolate milk. The motor is at a local machine shop. Just doing a stock rebuild with a cam 1 step higher than the RV. Again i dont know too much so i am learning along the way.
I would like to keep everything stock except for the suspension. I have looked around and found a few brands like Hotchkis, Global West, and UMI. I was thinking tubular control arms and coilovers. Along with sway bars and bushings. Since the motor is completey out i was thinking about removing the frame from the chassis.
Mechanicaly i can do most of it. Just need someone to guide me or show me a few steps. I also have a decent amount of tools.
Appreciate the feed back and thank you for the support guys.
February 3rd, 2013, 11:56 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Thank you everyone. I will have a lot of questions about the car.
Also I'm from pittsburg,ca
===============
Ah, the Neverending City area by the bay!
I got my '68 in Sacramento while living there a while back.
When i bought the car he said it had a blown head gasket. So i took the heads off and had them redone. Then i noticed the oil looked like chocolate milk. The motor is at a local machine shop. Just doing a stock rebuild with a cam 1 step higher than the RV. Again i don't know too much so i am learning along the way.
===============
A good idea probably. Presumably the heads were checked for cracks. Did you find the exact location of the gasket leak? Got underhood photos? Nice Supreme- put at least one secret anti-theft device on it, like an ignition kill.
I would like to keep everything stock except for the suspension. I have looked around and found a few brands like Hotchkis, Global West, and UMI. I was thinking tubular control arms and coilovers. Along with sway bars and bushings.
============
Why? That seems like a lot of money... for what benefit? By "coilovers" are you talking coil springs over the shocks? In addition to the factory springs? The shock mounts are designed for shock mounting ONLY, not for providing suspension support. Sure, you can get a little more support via coilovers, but you can do the same thing with stiffer factory type springs, which place the loads in the intended locations. Your car came with a well engineered suspension. New wear parts [bushings, ball joints, etc.] will do WONDERS for it... I did my '68 right after I got it ~1984, drove like a new car afterwards.
Since the motor is completey out i was thinking about removing the frame from the chassis.
================
Ooooh, BIG STEP. Heavily into the "mightaswells"...
2 year + project at that point, unless you have a TV show and cut a lot of corners, then it's a week long project, tops.
if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Mechanically i can do most of it. Just need someone to guide me or show me a few steps. I also have a decent amount of tools.
Appreciate the feed back and thank you for the support guys.
=========================
You will of course join wildaboutcars.com in order to have the Chassis Service manual and Assembly Manuals at your disposal. Where to locate the spring pigtails, all that detail info...
Are you staying with the factory air induction [air cleaner]?
Do you get to local boneyards? I am always on the lookout for 1968-only items. My favorite boneyard was just N of Davis CA. Cost $1 to get in. One day I brought an entire console, dual gate shifter, and console full of small misc. up to the counter... "what ya got there"
[looking at list on the wal] "uhm, a shifter"
"OK, that's $10"
I had seen the Cutlass SX around Davis, but never got around to leaving a note on it...
Also I'm from pittsburg,ca
===============
Ah, the Neverending City area by the bay!
I got my '68 in Sacramento while living there a while back.
When i bought the car he said it had a blown head gasket. So i took the heads off and had them redone. Then i noticed the oil looked like chocolate milk. The motor is at a local machine shop. Just doing a stock rebuild with a cam 1 step higher than the RV. Again i don't know too much so i am learning along the way.
===============
A good idea probably. Presumably the heads were checked for cracks. Did you find the exact location of the gasket leak? Got underhood photos? Nice Supreme- put at least one secret anti-theft device on it, like an ignition kill.
I would like to keep everything stock except for the suspension. I have looked around and found a few brands like Hotchkis, Global West, and UMI. I was thinking tubular control arms and coilovers. Along with sway bars and bushings.
============
Why? That seems like a lot of money... for what benefit? By "coilovers" are you talking coil springs over the shocks? In addition to the factory springs? The shock mounts are designed for shock mounting ONLY, not for providing suspension support. Sure, you can get a little more support via coilovers, but you can do the same thing with stiffer factory type springs, which place the loads in the intended locations. Your car came with a well engineered suspension. New wear parts [bushings, ball joints, etc.] will do WONDERS for it... I did my '68 right after I got it ~1984, drove like a new car afterwards.
Since the motor is completey out i was thinking about removing the frame from the chassis.
================
Ooooh, BIG STEP. Heavily into the "mightaswells"...
2 year + project at that point, unless you have a TV show and cut a lot of corners, then it's a week long project, tops.
if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Mechanically i can do most of it. Just need someone to guide me or show me a few steps. I also have a decent amount of tools.
Appreciate the feed back and thank you for the support guys.
=========================
You will of course join wildaboutcars.com in order to have the Chassis Service manual and Assembly Manuals at your disposal. Where to locate the spring pigtails, all that detail info...
Are you staying with the factory air induction [air cleaner]?
Do you get to local boneyards? I am always on the lookout for 1968-only items. My favorite boneyard was just N of Davis CA. Cost $1 to get in. One day I brought an entire console, dual gate shifter, and console full of small misc. up to the counter... "what ya got there"
[looking at list on the wal] "uhm, a shifter"
"OK, that's $10"
I had seen the Cutlass SX around Davis, but never got around to leaving a note on it...
February 3rd, 2013, 02:33 PM
#14
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,248
Welcome to this site! It's a great one and you will get top notch answers and advice on questions with your car. Say, I lived in your neck of the woods for a few years - out in Antioch off of Somersville Road on Gatter Court - from '89 to '92. Weather was certainly a lot better there than it is here in the PacNW!
Lots of '68 people here, too. Thanks for the pictures and enjoy!
Randy C.
Lots of '68 people here, too. Thanks for the pictures and enjoy!
Randy C.
February 3rd, 2013, 10:46 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
Thank you everyone. I will have a lot of questions about the car.
Also I'm from pittsburg,ca
===============
Ah, the Neverending City area by the bay!
I got my '68 in Sacramento while living there a while back.
When i bought the car he said it had a blown head gasket. So i took the heads off and had them redone. Then i noticed the oil looked like chocolate milk. The motor is at a local machine shop. Just doing a stock rebuild with a cam 1 step higher than the RV. Again i don't know too much so i am learning along the way.
===============
A good idea probably. Presumably the heads were checked for cracks. Did you find the exact location of the gasket leak? Got underhood photos? Nice Supreme- put at least one secret anti-theft device on it, like an ignition kill.
I would like to keep everything stock except for the suspension. I have looked around and found a few brands like Hotchkis, Global West, and UMI. I was thinking tubular control arms and coilovers. Along with sway bars and bushings.
============
Why? That seems like a lot of money... for what benefit? By "coilovers" are you talking coil springs over the shocks? In addition to the factory springs? The shock mounts are designed for shock mounting ONLY, not for providing suspension support. Sure, you can get a little more support via coilovers, but you can do the same thing with stiffer factory type springs, which place the loads in the intended locations. Your car came with a well engineered suspension. New wear parts [bushings, ball joints, etc.] will do WONDERS for it... I did my '68 right after I got it ~1984, drove like a new car afterwards.
Since the motor is completey out i was thinking about removing the frame from the chassis.
================
Ooooh, BIG STEP. Heavily into the "mightaswells"...
2 year + project at that point, unless you have a TV show and cut a lot of corners, then it's a week long project, tops.
if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Mechanically i can do most of it. Just need someone to guide me or show me a few steps. I also have a decent amount of tools.
Appreciate the feed back and thank you for the support guys.
=========================
You will of course join wildaboutcars.com in order to have the Chassis Service manual and Assembly Manuals at your disposal. Where to locate the spring pigtails, all that detail info...
Are you staying with the factory air induction [air cleaner]?
Do you get to local boneyards? I am always on the lookout for 1968-only items. My favorite boneyard was just N of Davis CA. Cost $1 to get in. One day I brought an entire console, dual gate shifter, and console full of small misc. up to the counter... "what ya got there"
[looking at list on the wal] "uhm, a shifter"
"OK, that's $10"
I had seen the Cutlass SX around Davis, but never got around to leaving a note on it...
Also I'm from pittsburg,ca
===============
Ah, the Neverending City area by the bay!
I got my '68 in Sacramento while living there a while back.
When i bought the car he said it had a blown head gasket. So i took the heads off and had them redone. Then i noticed the oil looked like chocolate milk. The motor is at a local machine shop. Just doing a stock rebuild with a cam 1 step higher than the RV. Again i don't know too much so i am learning along the way.
===============
A good idea probably. Presumably the heads were checked for cracks. Did you find the exact location of the gasket leak? Got underhood photos? Nice Supreme- put at least one secret anti-theft device on it, like an ignition kill.
I would like to keep everything stock except for the suspension. I have looked around and found a few brands like Hotchkis, Global West, and UMI. I was thinking tubular control arms and coilovers. Along with sway bars and bushings.
============
Why? That seems like a lot of money... for what benefit? By "coilovers" are you talking coil springs over the shocks? In addition to the factory springs? The shock mounts are designed for shock mounting ONLY, not for providing suspension support. Sure, you can get a little more support via coilovers, but you can do the same thing with stiffer factory type springs, which place the loads in the intended locations. Your car came with a well engineered suspension. New wear parts [bushings, ball joints, etc.] will do WONDERS for it... I did my '68 right after I got it ~1984, drove like a new car afterwards.
Since the motor is completey out i was thinking about removing the frame from the chassis.
================
Ooooh, BIG STEP. Heavily into the "mightaswells"...
2 year + project at that point, unless you have a TV show and cut a lot of corners, then it's a week long project, tops.
if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Mechanically i can do most of it. Just need someone to guide me or show me a few steps. I also have a decent amount of tools.
Appreciate the feed back and thank you for the support guys.
=========================
You will of course join wildaboutcars.com in order to have the Chassis Service manual and Assembly Manuals at your disposal. Where to locate the spring pigtails, all that detail info...
Are you staying with the factory air induction [air cleaner]?
Do you get to local boneyards? I am always on the lookout for 1968-only items. My favorite boneyard was just N of Davis CA. Cost $1 to get in. One day I brought an entire console, dual gate shifter, and console full of small misc. up to the counter... "what ya got there"
[looking at list on the wal] "uhm, a shifter"
"OK, that's $10"
I had seen the Cutlass SX around Davis, but never got around to leaving a note on it...
These are the type of answer im trying to get. I mean like i said im learning along the way. As far as the suspension goes, I want a nice firm ride. Im sure moog replacement parts and some new bushings would do wonders. I would just like to take it a few steps higher. The motor should be complete in a few weeks. Then im taking the tranny to someone local who is pretty good.
Do you know where i can buy a complete rear end that will bolt right in?
Also on the tranny i was debating on switching to a 4speed auto.
These are just ideas i have.
4k for a hotchkis suspension kit.
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