I have completed a rebuild on an olds 350. I primed the motor and can not get oil to the heads. I read through a service manual and found the rear oil galley plug is behind the freeze plug in the rear of the block near the cam shaft. I assume this is why I have no oil pressure. But I have no experience removing the freeze plug I installed and could that oil galley be put in without removing the motor?

 

Are you spinning the oil pump the correct direction?
This ain't no Chevy engine.

look in thru the dist'r hole with inspection mirror to see the plug or lack thereof.

Of course you would also be able to see either a spurt or gush of oil out of that oil passage while priming. Or no flow it the usual no-hole plug was installed by the usual type assembler, because "new" has got to better than "the old one."

 

Yes counter clockwise. I've been going by the book and I def don't have the oil pressure I should. And after reading I notice that mondello sells a oil gally plug that goes behind the 29/32 freeze plug and I know for a fact I never put that in. Is there a way to install that with the motor/tranny still attached? Or just pull the granny

 

"pull the granny"

heh

better yank gramps out too.

:-)


Well, first you need the plug with the spurt hole, got that?

There is a tale here of a guy who removed the hole-free plug and installed the correct one thru the dist hole by means of a ratcheting box end wrench and a modified stubby hex key piece. Search for that perhaps or improvise based on that info?

I would start with a rag and/or magnet under the hole so that anything that drops can't go far.


here is the story
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...g-removal.html

 

How about the front plugs?

 

Well after some serious thinking and inspecting I found that the rear plug was not in( pretty easy to tell with a small mirror). And instead of removing the motor I created a tool and was able to use a small amount of greese on the plug to keep it in place on the tool and successfully put it in through the distributor hole. It was not easy but def better than pulling the motor. So I primed the motor and got good pressure 60psi while using the drill. After getting it Tdc and setting the distributor I fired it up. It ran for 10 min and then abruptly shut off and I could not get it started again? Any ideas? Sounds like bad timing when I try to start it again but I'm not an expert by any means with tuning. Any help would be great

 

Well, the last time I heard this story it ended in tears.

It was seized bearings because the assembler did not wash the grinding dust out of the crank oil feed holes.

If the engine will not even crank over...
Remove the plugs so you don't have compression. Remove all the belts.

Turn the engine by hand using say the 1-1/8" tool size bolt on the front of the crank. See if it feels right, or is real hard to turn. Turn both ways.

If it's hard to turn, loosen or remove all the rockers to remove the valves from the system.

If it's still hard to turn, pull the torque converter [TC] to flexplate bolts and slide the TC back a little. If the TC does not move back 1/4" or so then the TC was not engaged in the trans properly.

If it is STILL hard to turn the engine, out comes the engine, for that leaves only the crank rods and pistons as suspects.

 

It turns over just fine. But why it abruptly shut off while running?

 

Did you drill the center of the plug for the spit hole before you put it in?

 

Do you have spark? Fuel? Has the distributor moved? Have you put a timing light and dwell meter on it?

Basic troubleshooting.

- Eric

 

I'm with Eric, you lost your fuel or power supply.

 

Lucky you, fuel and spark should be easy to make happen.

Your own gas can near the fuel pump will eliminate all the car's tank and lines as problems.

Your own power wire right to the coil/ HEI will eliminate all the car's switches and wiring as trouble sources while you get your cam break-in and warm to operating temperature run done.