Hi Everyone,

my dad has a 1969 Cutlass that he purchased in 1999 as a project car for the two of us - but neither of us know how to swing a hammer let alone be considered gear monkeys.

He passed away unexpectedly in 2016 and the car has since become MY project car. We love driving in it daily during the summer as my two boys do not stop talking about my dad or ask questions about who he was and what made him great. With that, this car will hopefully be passed on to my boys someday.

Anyways, I would like to get this car back to its glory days. Like I said earlier, I know how to drive it and fuel it. I let professionals work on it so I don’t jack it up anymore.

The suspension has been fixed and the tranny rebuilt (by a gent who used to work at the Fremont plant where the car was built!).

question for everyone here is what should I do next? It has a newer 350 but was not built properly as compression is off a bit (so I have been told).

i have about $10k ready to go for this project at the moment.
Vin= 336679Z135747

convertible top operates fine but since it spent so many years, the vinyl has shrank and will not reach.

thanks for your help and any suggestions. I greatly appreciate all you Olds masters sharing this info with us all.


Has a W-31 emblem but believe W machines only built in Lansing. Not Fremont.

 

Welcome! Four speed vert, pretty nice car.

 

Welcome, nice looking car. 4 speed?
Do you want to keep the red(looks great), or go back to original?
Is the body solid? Any rust(bubbles in paint)?

Id get a good written diagnosis on the engine(i.e. compression numbers on all cylinders, timing, points and plug condition.
It has the correct heads on it, do you know if the block is original to the car.

If you cant get the top to stretch, take it to a good upholstery shop, see if they can fix it. Once its fixed/replaced, always store it with the top closed.

Once you get more info on the condition of the car, there are plenty of guys on here willing to help you out.

You may want to order a 69 Chassis Service Manual. Even though you may not spin a wrench, the manual will explain the correct procedures for fixing your car so you can understand whether a mechanic is yankin you around.

Good luck

 

@ 70w-32

I believe the red is original. Just sun bleached. Had the detail shop take off 3mm of paint to get it that color red instead of the pinkish hue it had when I brought it home.

there is Zero rust. Had the car on a lift and went through the whole car with mechanic. I couldn’t believe it.

thanks for the ideas on the upholstery and diagnostic report.

the block is not original. Dad had it installed in 2008 I believe.

 

Also,
does anyone have any ideas as to why I have to replace the battery annually? I leave it on trickle charge and start it once a week during winter. But to no avail, I’m still replacing the battery.

 

Welcome to the site. There is no reason to start the car once a week. Not only does it serve no real purpose but its the worst thing you can do because it does not allow for all the moisture to evaporate in the engine or exhaust system. Simply charge the battery, disconnect it and when driving season resumes charge it fully, reconnect, and go.

 

Just a idea that has worked for me( and cost nothing) is to put the top up as far as it will go then leave it in the sun for the good part of a day then try to latch it closed. Vinyl will stretch with heat. If you get it closed once leave it up for a few days to stretch. I have gone as far as putting a space heater on the floorboard in the winter to do the same thing..... Tedd ... PS good looking 69.

 

Nice looking car and a great story about your Dad and your history with you and him and the car!! Welcome to the site!

 

I'm sure you will enjoy the top down while your grabbing gears, I do.

 

You are correct. Code 52 is Crimson. I guess someone replaced the drivers fender at some point, due to the cream color on the inside of the fender.

 

FWIW, I find it easier to latch the top of my convertible into place with the windows down. I assume that helps make a tighter seal once the windows go up.

 

You've got a current drain somewhere. Do you have any digital accessories (clock, radio, etc.)? If not, you may have a bit of a chore ahead of you trying to trace it.

Do not start the car once a week in the off season. Unless you're going to drive it long enough to bring the entire car up to operating temperature, it's better to leave it sit.

 

For the battery drain, my first suspect would be one of the interior lights or underhood / trunk light is on when it shouldn't be.
If none of the lights are on, then the alternator may be the culprit with a leaky diode (I had that multiple times over the years). You can pull the plug on the side of the alternator and see if the battery drain goes away. If it does, get the alternator rebuilt; if not, look at the radio, clock, etc.

 

you all rock! Thanks for the pointer on not starting in off season.

I plan on a diagnostic report of engine and having someone look for electrical drain somewhere or rebuilding alternator.

 

Nice car. My car rolled down the same line exactly one year after yours. 06D date Fremont built 1970 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. What are your goals for the car? 10k could easily be a really nice paint job. What condition is the interior? I would make sure it’s as safe and dependable to drive then go from there. You say the suspension was fixed, I’m not sure what that means but I would replace all control arm bushings, ball joints, and steering linkage. I would also go through the brakes, looks like a power drum master. I would consider going to factory disks in the front, the rears new shoes, wheel cylinders and hardware should be good enough. Make sure you replace all the rubber hoses. Motor was probably built with the low compression off the shelf pistons, since it isn't original I would look for a 455. You could also have the 350 gone through again with different parts to get you to what you want. Be aware that most stock Oldsmobile motors will not be compatible with the manual transmission. The crank will need to be modified to accept the pilot bearing. What transmission is in it? If it is a 3 speed or a Saginaw I would build a Muncie for it. Does the car have dual exhaust? I prefer long tube headers and free flowing mufflers they really seem to wake these motors up. Do you know what rear it has? Depending on transmission and original motor it could have anything between 3.91 posi to 2.56 open. Depending on your goals that may need to be changed. Looks like it will be a fun project whatever you decide.

 

This car is a Cutlass S, not a Cutlass Supreme. Aside of 1967, no Supreme ragtop till 1970, which replaced the S.

 

Welcome, nice 4-speed 'vert! Love that color too.
Yeah.......that's an emblem from a '70. At least they got it close to the correct location for a '69.