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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 06:23 AM
  #41  
oldcutlass's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42,496
From: Poteau, Ok
I'd talk to other people in your area on who to bring your car to for an alignment. In my town, out of about 10 alignment shops there is 1 that can do a proper alignment. You do not want to take it to a chain store, because most do not know how to do it properly.


The settings I use are"


Camber set to 0
caster set for as much negative as I can realistically get. Normally with stock upper arms I can get -2 degrees, even on both sides.
toe in set to 1/8"
Old Jan 22, 2014 | 11:22 AM
  #42  
Fun71's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 15,409
From: Phoenix, AZ
Originally Posted by oldcutlass
I'd talk to other people in your area on who to bring your car to for an alignment. In my town, out of about 10 alignment shops there is 1 that can do a proper alignment. You do not want to take it to a chain store, because most do not know how to do it properly.
I agree. I take mine to an "old guy" who basically has a shop for fun (he has a really nice '70ish Challenger). A local chain store wanted $99 plus an hourly rate because it's harder than the new cars where all the tech does is turn a cam bolt to adjust things.
Old Jan 22, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #43  
oldstata's Avatar
Justin
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,454
From: utah
Originally Posted by Fun71
I agree. I take mine to an "old guy" who basically has a shop for fun (he has a really nice '70ish Challenger). A local chain store wanted $99 plus an hourly rate because it's harder than the new cars where all the tech does is turn a cam bolt to adjust things.
Lol
In wish my boss would let me charge more time fir the ones I adjust that take a little extra we do what ever we can for a flat fee if 59.00 for a two wheel and 79.00 for a four wheel

I slide subframe pull and pry everything once we say we can't get it into spec then it's what do we need control arm strut frame ? Then we can up sell only once if we miss it shop usually buys part while techs are expected to eat time while this sucks there are a few guys like my self that take the time to measure so rarely do I loose my butt
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 11:20 AM
  #44  
1970supremevert's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 478
From: MD
townie
did you ever get this figured out??
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 11:30 AM
  #45  
Townie's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 116
From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by 1970supremevert
townie
did you ever get this figured out??
No I haven't done anything yet. I take a ride in it at least once a week so it doesn't sit all winter but it's not much fun fighting to keep it in one lane. I am hoping to have it all sorted out by the springtime.
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 02:21 PM
  #46  
redoldsman's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,817
From: Rowlett, TX
I really did not see much discussion about the brakes. If the brake hoses are old, change them. They can get to the point they act like a check valve and keep pressure on the caliper (or wheel cylinder). When I bought my current 72 Cutlass 20 years ago, it had no brakes (neither did the first one). After I started working on the brakes, the left front brake (drum brakes) would lock up after I pushed the pedal once. When I cracked the bleeder valve, it would loosen up. I replaced the brake hose and it was fine. I scratched my head and cussed enough that I remember that one 20 years later.
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 02:29 PM
  #47  
pcard's Avatar
70 Cutlass SX
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,042
From: Bermuda
Are you still in RI? Are you a member of the NE Olds club? If not I could ask the members if they know a good alignment tech.
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 04:04 PM
  #48  
Townie's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 116
From: Rhode Island
Originally Posted by redoldsman
I really did not see much discussion about the brakes. If the brake hoses are old, change them. They can get to the point they act like a check valve and keep pressure on the caliper (or wheel cylinder). When I bought my current 72 Cutlass 20 years ago, it had no brakes (neither did the first one). After I started working on the brakes, the left front brake (drum brakes) would lock up after I pushed the pedal once. When I cracked the bleeder valve, it would loosen up. I replaced the brake hose and it was fine. I scratched my head and cussed enough that I remember that one 20 years later.
Hi the brake lines are new I put them in with new rotors brakes calipers and wheel bearings. I've been talking to people and I'm starting to think there's a frame issue.
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