Coolant tank on a 70 442??
#2
#4
I agree, if it's not a concourse restoration and you drive the car even just a bit as in to and from work, a coolant recovery tank (with the correct radiator cap) makes more sense than a non-recovery setup.
#5
Thanks, not concourse, a fun driver that I may take to local shows or cars&coffee, I saw a kit on YearOne is that what you guys would recommend?
QUOTE=Fun71;1227846]I agree, if it's not a concourse restoration and you drive the car even just a bit as in to and from work, a coolant recovery tank (with the correct radiator cap) makes more sense than a non-recovery setup.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=Fun71;1227846]I agree, if it's not a concourse restoration and you drive the car even just a bit as in to and from work, a coolant recovery tank (with the correct radiator cap) makes more sense than a non-recovery setup.[/QUOTE]
#6
I bought one of these for my car from the local auto parts store for under $20. I try to buy regular stuff locally and save the hard to source items from the restoration houses.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...niversal&pos=1
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...niversal&pos=1
#8
Right radiator cap?
thanks for the info, going to get the kit, however what is the right radiator cap? Why doesnt the OEM work?
thanks
thanks
#9
I switched from the OEM overfill tank to the to the one pictured first above (bought through YearOne) and the OEM one was like a glass milk bottle cap made of metal in lieu plastic in the kit. The metal one was rusting out and a laminated paper piece was flaking off. I had considered buying household items like glass milk bottle with similar looking/size metal caps to change out for but, it wasn't worth the hassle.
I could be quoting an incorrect statement but, had read once that the recovery tank was at one-time a dealer install option, not factory.
#10
The OEM cap doesn't have a gasket to seal between the lip of the radiator fill neck and the cap; it won't hold vacuum as the radiator cools down. Therefore it can't return coolant from the tank into the radiator.
You could buy a cap with the gasket, but there's a much cheaper and original-looking solution. Cut a gasket from inner tube material and put it in your OEM cap. It will work perfectly.
You could buy a cap with the gasket, but there's a much cheaper and original-looking solution. Cut a gasket from inner tube material and put it in your OEM cap. It will work perfectly.
#11
Install note on the pictured aftermarket overflow kit- with OAI hood you can turn the overflow brkt screw holes 90* (w/ pliers) and screw it to each side of the hood lock brkt on rad sppt so you don’t have to drill anything other than the hood brkt. I hope that makes sense!
#12
Those not using an overflow catch should make sure they are not overfilling their radiator. There is a mark on the passenger side tank(factory radiators) that shows the fluid level is about 3" below the cap when cold. I've seen quite a few people who top the radiator off. Then when the engine gets warm, it pushes the excess out, and they think their car is overheating.
Last edited by 70W-32; March 15th, 2020 at 03:33 PM.
#13
From an old (2016) thread:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...or-cap-107286/
The pressure-only cap has a one-way valve that only allows coolant to exit the overflow line when the system overheats. The pressure/vacuum cap has a second valve that allows the system to draw coolant back in from the recovery thank once the radiator cools down.
From http://www.allpar.com/fix/engines/cooling-caps.html
Note that most radiator cap listings show "open" or "closed" cooling system. The pressure/vacuum cap is for the closed type, with the recovery tank, however the reality is that pretty much all caps today are closed type, since these will work just fine on an open (non recovery tank) system.
From http://www.allpar.com/fix/engines/cooling-caps.html
Note that most radiator cap listings show "open" or "closed" cooling system. The pressure/vacuum cap is for the closed type, with the recovery tank, however the reality is that pretty much all caps today are closed type, since these will work just fine on an open (non recovery tank) system.
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