I changed the timing chain on my 68 olds 350 to a double roller cloyes(it fit), and now it won't start. I lined up the chain before i took it off and marked it(cam sprocket@ 6oclock)(crank sprocket@12oclock) so that's the way i put the new one on. Now it wont start like it's getting no spark. Help guys thanks

 

Have you reviewed this thread?

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-marks-142002/

 

Check it for spark and fuel. Guessing it ran before replacing the chain? Did you put the fuel pump eccentric back on the front of the cam?

Good luck!!!

 

You're more than likely 180 degrees out

 

Read the post #2 link I provided - review both oldscutlass and Joe's suggestions regarding stabbing the distributor and it's alignment relative to #1 & #6 @ TDC.

 

I thought i was 180 but i didn't remove the distributor.

 

vintage chief yea i just looked at it
so i when i have it lined up the way i did just turn the crank one full turn right?

 

Correct

 

Thanks guys, now taking everything back off ohhhh yeaaa😐😅

 

You did read the distributor needs to be pointing @ #1 TDC? Post #8 of the link.

 

yea so when my distributor rotor is pointing at my #1 plug i am good right?

 

Correct

 

Did you check for fuel and/or spark first? If it is 180 out it does not have to come apart, just rotate the crank one turn. Put number one TDC restab the distributor.

 

exactly

 

I should have been more specific TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke.

 

Right now the rotor is facing the firewall towards the passenger side

 

So it's facing the #6 plug at tdc, what next

 

Well, that's no good. Point it to #1 when #1 is @ TDC.

 

In case there was any misunderstanding w/ regard to what has been stated several times from the previous post I'll re-post it again.

"Its easier to align when the crank is at 12 and cam is at 6 with #1 at tdc (in this position #6 is firing). Once assembled, turn the crank 1 full turn (puts crank at 12 and cam at 12) and install the distributor pointing to #1."

 

The rotor must point to #1 when the #1 piston is at Top Dead Center TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. To the OP #1 at TDC isn't good enough because it could be TDC on the exhaust stroke, that will not work.

Another way of confirming TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke is that both #1 cylinder rocker arms will be closed and not move if the crank is moved a few degrees in either direction AND at the same time the #6 cylinder rocker arms will move/seesaw as the crank is moved back and forth.

Install the distributor with #1 on TDC COMPRESSION stroke with the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire, start the engine and set the timing with a light.

Good luck!!!

 

thanks a lot I'm only 16 so i might ask a lot of questions just to be sure of things lol me and my brother share this profile

 

You are welcome. It is great to see youth showing interest in the hobby. If you have questions ASK, ASK, ASK, that is the purpose of the forum.

Good luck!!!

 

I remember having the same problem after I rebuilt my first engine when i was 15. My Dad was able to solve the problem. Great to see someone your age working on and enjoying the cars us old fogeys grew up with.

 

I took off the distributor cap and the rotor will not spin🤔🤔😐 the car started and ran everyday

 

The rotor doesn't spin on its own. The rotor spins from the spinning of the distributor shaft. The rotor itself is locked in place. There is a key-way which keeps the rotor locked into its position. As the rotor spins, the extended metal piece on the rotor contacts each and every single contact point on the distributor cap. You'll notice the distributor cap is where you will find 9 wires - 8 on the circumference and one in the middle. The one in the middle is your coil wire. The 8 on the circumference are the contact plug wires for each of the 8 cylinders.

You want the #1 spark plug wire location on the distributor cap and the rotor itself pointed to the #1 cylinder when the #1 cylinder is in the TDC of its compression stroke.

Take some pictures and post your pictures so we can see what you're dealing with here.

So, what you need to do is loosen the distributor hold-down, remove the distributor and then re-insert the distributor back into the hole from which you pulled it until it is situated at the points which we have been explaining.

Notice we stated you will perform the above after you have turned the crankshaft one full turn. That will align the distributor shaft into the camshaft and when re-inserting the distributor, you will insert the distributor (shaft) at the position I just described.

I think you need to read up on what and how a distributor operates. Review some YouTube videos on distributors. We can post some for you.

 

Have a look at Post # 35 on this thread and maybe Post # 38.

We're going to assume at this point (pictures would be good if you can post some) you have OEM-Style (Original Equipment Manufacturer-Style) contact points distributor and NOT an HEI distributor. The HEI distributor is another ball game. See my link below, it demonstrates what an OEM distributor looks like, and the post I provided above show a person changing the rotor and distributor cap on an OEM-Style distributor.

I think this might take you a little longer than anticipated, but there are many here who are willing to assist you in your efforts - be patient.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-drive-134624/

 

Here's a decent video on the ignition system of a vehicle.

 

When wouldn't it spin? While cranking or trying to turn it by hand? It should turn when cranking the engine. It should have about 1/4-1/2" rotational spring tensioned movement when turning the rotor by hand.

If it won't turn when cranking the engine, pull a valve cover, crank it and see if the rocker arms go up and down. Let us know the result and we'll go to the next step.

Good luck!!!

 

That's a good point. It should certainly spin when cranking the engine (or turning the crank by hand). I assumed he was attempting to turn the rotor with the engine off and the distributor cap removed (obviously).

 

I took out the distributor everything is good there. I got plenty of time so i took everything back off..... The cam sprocket hole isn't on the camshaft dowell😐😐 so i guess i found the issue.

 

Good work, stay at it and get it running.

 

Yes, yes you did. I just can't comprehend how the timing gear was bolted to the camshaft without that being aligned correctly.

 

Just found this thread, if he didn't remove distributor why is anyone giving advice to remove it. Seems like this got out of hand for this young man.

 

Chris - I'll accept some responsibility. At the beginning of the thread up until Post # 8 (or somewhere) there was moderate information and it appeared a case of being 180° out. I did catch the thread the OP did not remove the distributor later on; and, you're correct at that point why pursue the 180° out any longer. In hindsight there was perhaps some malformed information being presented to the young man, in the end I certainly would not have suspected timing gear was bolted to the camshaft without being aligned correctly. The giveaway would have been when the OP stated the rotor isn't turning - honestly, I thought the OP was referring to the inability of the rotor just free turning. Pretty clear now - why the rotor was indeed, not turning.

 

I'm having trouble getting the cam sprocket on the cam dowel, even if i try putting the old one back on it wont go on. Any advice? Thanks

 

Look closely at the end of the dowel, it probably has a burr or nick on it. It doesn't take hardly anything to cause a fit problem. If you see anything use a fine file to chamfer (angle it toward the end so it isn't square) the edge of the dowel. The chamfered/angled leading edge will guide the pin into the gear. Visualize trying to line two holes using a pick or tapered punch. The taper is what helps it get started.

Good luck!!!

 

thank you sugar bear, I'm guessing it's happened to others as well. Lol

 

My cam sprocket won't go fit on the side the timing mark is on, so can i mark the other side right behind it and be ok? It goes on the other way.

 

Will the old gear go on the correct way?
Can you post a picture of both sides of the new cam gear and note which side faces front when it will go on?
Confirm that the part #'s on the box and the gear match and that they are correct for your motor.
​​​​​​
​​​​​
​​​​​

 

I marked both sprockets.