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Hello All. Avid Olds fan, Frequent reader on this site, First time poster!
After nearly 35 years since I've owned an Olds I'm finally back in the game. Just purchased a beautiful 70' Supreme convertible , 442 W-30 tribute. She is special. The drivetrain and many other bits and pieces were transferred from a donor true 70' W-30 with the stamps and markings to prove it. I couldn't be more excited. I've probably got somewhere between 300-500 questions (lol) for you fine knowledgeable folks on this site. Looking forward to being part of this community!
Thank you folks! Took the first ride in her yesterday. All around town for a few hours. Finding and working out the little stuff. What a great feeling to be back in this fantastic hobby.
As everyone else said. Beautiful car. I love white interior cars. How's it run? All that you expected?
Yes pretty much. And the white/pearl is my fav as well. This is not a 6 figure nut and bolt restoration but a good solid bones car. She runs great. Fires right up and the motor is still as can be at idle. Goes down the road straight and true with no major squeaks or rattles. Paint is new and a decent job. Interior seems original with some signs of her age. Car needs some things but that's part of the fun for me as it is for most of us. Lots of putzing and tinkering ahead. Motor is a transplant allegedly from a 70 442, possibly w-30. It has the W455 aluminum intake, F heads, X and Z exhaust manifolds, his and hers turbo 400, and many other 442 type parts. When I get into it I'll find the code on the block (could use some help with that from this group please and thank you) and put it in here for knowledge/opinions.
I have a few questions for you vert owner's out there.
1)Is there a reservoir of some sort that holds the hydraulic fluid? And does that need to be checked occasionally?
2) My parade boot is a bit Ill fitting so I have t been attaching it until I can give it some attention. I've been driving with it just hanging in the back seat. Can it be left flopped into roof storage area and the roof lowered onto it? is there room in there for the roof and boot? Or is this a completely terrible idea? Lol.
Thanks
I have a few questions for you vert owner's out there.
1)Is there a reservoir of some sort that holds the hydraulic fluid? And does that need to be checked occasionally?
2) My parade boot is a bit Ill fitting so I have t been attaching it until I can give it some attention. I've been driving with it just hanging in the back seat. Can it be left flopped into roof storage area and the roof lowered onto it? is there room in there for the roof and boot? Or is this a completely terrible idea? Lol.
Thanks
The pump is in the trunk behind the back seat. There is a rubber plug that you remove to add fluid. A turkey baster works good to add fluid.. I do not routinely check mine.. as far as the boot goes,, I leave mine attached when I have the top up and just store it in the well.. I would definitely not put the top down with it in the well.. if you are not using it when you have the top down,, you could just remove it by sliding it out of the channel on the back of the back seat.
Ok....so I've got this transplanted 455 in my 70' Cutlass Supreme. Supposedly the motor is from a 70 442. I don't have confirmation on this but I'm just happy to have the big block. It's got an aluminum w-455 intake. "F" heads, X and Z exhaust manifolds. I'd like to 100% identify the year of the motor/block so that moving forward I can be sure I'm ordering the right parts, plugs, pieces and whatever else. How can ID the motor?
Unfortunately, We can't prove the engine is out of a 442 or a W30, but we can prove it is neither by reviewing a few details.
Start with the engine casting number on the block just behind the water pump, the font style of F on the end is important. Also look to see if any thing follows after that F. Pictures would be best if you can post them.
The casting numbers off the heads between the center two spark plugs will tell us if they are true F heads.People sometimes grind the lower part of E heads to make them look like an F..
The Vin stamp pad on the block is about 6 inches below the #1 spark plug . Depending on accessories, you may or may not be able to see it. A flashlight and an inspection mirror can help. Unless the third character is an M it cannot be a W30 engine. However, If it is an M it still does not prove it is a W30 engine but only that the engine was built in Lansing IF it is not just a restamp.....
BTW, welcome and your car is a real looker.
Last edited by 4+4+2=10; Sep 13, 2021 at 05:53 PM.
Wow...sounds like a lot of variables, and a lot of opportunity for "forgeries". That's great info. Thank you.Looks like I'll be doing some investigation this weekend.
This casting number behind the water pump, do you mean above the water pump on the top of the block? Or are we talking about removing the water pump to see it? Also, would any of these #'s you've mentioned ID the year of the motor. That's my biggest concern right now so that I can properly order parts for tune-up etc. I guess that's the downfall of having a transplant that someone else put in there is you have to identify it so that you know what you're dealing with. Or am I overthinking this? Would simple things like plugs be the same for any 455? Much to learn much to learn much to learn.
Just adding some additional images of the VIN derivative location. Look behind & below the alternator bracket on the engine just in front of the #1 spark plug - hard to see at first, use a flashlight (as suggested by 4+4+2=10).
Wow...sounds like a lot of variables, and a lot of opportunity for "forgeries". That's great info. Thank you.Looks like I'll be doing some investigation this weekend.
This casting number behind the water pump, do you mean above the water pump on the top of the block? ...
No need to remove the pump, It is clearly visible on the block between the water pump and intake manifold.
Unfortunately, We can't prove the engine is out of a 442 or a W30, but we can prove it is neither by reviewing a few details.
Start with the engine casting number on the block just behind the water pump, the font style of F on the end is important. Also look to see if any thing follows after that F. Pictures would be best if you can post them.
The casting numbers off the heads between the center two spark plugs will tell us if they are true F heads.People sometimes grind the lower part of E heads to make them look like an F..
The Vin stamp pad on the block is about 6 inches below the #1 spark plug . Depending on accessories, you may or may not be able to see it. A flashlight and an inspection mirror can help. Unless the third character is an M it cannot be a W30 engine. However, If it is an M it still does not prove it is a W30 engine but only that the engine was built in Lansing IF it is not just a restamp.....
BTW, welcome and your car is a real looker.
Ok gents here's what I got. Got the best pictures I could. The casting number behind the water pump is 396021F, with nothing following the F. There is an F on the head that from where I'm standing does not appear to formerly been an E.
The casting number between the center plugs is 403686. And the VIN stamp on the block is 30M333744. Hopefully I can get this pics up.
Please educate the new guy!
Behind the water pump VIN Stamp Between the middle plugs On the head toward the front of motor
The Block casting number and the style of the "F" is consistent with a 70 model. The VIN stamp tells us that it was built in Lansing ("M" 3rd character) for a 70 model car ("0" 2nd character) Unfortunately those are modified "E" heads. casting number for "F" heads is is 404438. If you look closely, you can see the bottom leg of the E was removed.
The Block casting number and the style of the "F" is consistent with a 70 model. The VIN stamp tells us that it was built in Lansing ("M" 3rd character) for a 70 model car ("0" 2nd character) Unfortunately those are modified "E" heads. casting number for "F" heads is is 404438. If you look closely, you can see the bottom leg of the E was removed.
Okay so you're saying that the picture of the F I sent and labeled "On the head toward the front of the motor" Was formerly and "E" That someone changed to an F? That's disturbing that people do **** like that lol.. Also the head casting number you're saying proves that they are "E" heads.
The rest of the numbers.. the block casting and the block VIN stamp show that It's a 70 built in Lansing but do not prove it's a w30 motor Is this correct?.
And I guess my final and I'm sure naive question would be what is the difference technically, performance wise between and E and F head? Clearly if people are willing to file off the bottom of the E to trick someone into thinking it's an F, an F Head must be something spectacular.
Once again thank you all for your help with my education.
Last edited by FINISHLINE; Sep 18, 2021 at 09:46 AM.
Clearly if people are willing to file off the bottom of the E to trick someone into thinking it's an F, an F Head must be something spectacular.
That has nothing to do with performance. It has everything to do with people watching W30 cars bring six figures at Barrett Jackson and the like. There are now at least 5X as many W30 cars as Olds ever built.
Shameful..
oh well... I'm happy that it's a period orrect engine at least. Thanks again for all your help. I've got lots of tinkering to do and I'm sure I'll have many more questions And definitely appreciate your knowledge.
It is no easy way to say this to you at this time, but it’s this type of research that should be performed before a car purchase, not after the money changes hands. It’s sad to see how some car sellers operate, unfortunately, it’s the times we face in the hobby.
Today, nothing can be taken at face value; all claims by sellers must be investigated and verified by buyers; otherwise, one can expect a misrepresentation of material fact.
It’s true big sale figures can be problematic; a double-edged sword in a sense for us in this avocation. On the one hand, it escalates the value of the classics we hold; however, it also is a driver of fraud, negligent misrepresentation, and damage to the hobby overall.
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