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72 350 mild build

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Old October 2nd, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #1  
Bad Mr B's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, (Olathe) Ks
72 350 mild build

Brand new to site, Hello everyone.

Couple weeks ago I got my 72 Cutlass. Bone stock rearend, tranny, 350 2brl single exhaust. Want mild bolt on upgrades. Not looking to change pistons or heads. Has 58k original miles and runs smooth so no rebuild. Will eventually swap to 455 but thats years in the future. Goal is daily driver including hiway just want some extra umpf and sound good. Will drive in cold. Looking for decent gas mileage but willing to sacrifice a little for some get up and go. Have done research and here is what I've found. Have not purchased anything so not locked in and open to suggestions. I know there are similar threads but they all say need specific info goals for the car. So here it is, looking for pros cons & opinions.


-Gears, change 3.42, extra go but drivable
-Intake, 3711 Edl performer
-Carb, want hassle free including in cold bolt on and go. Heard Qjets are temperamental, recommended have seen Edl 1405 (heard 1406 temperamental), Holley 1805c, Holley street avenger 670, open to thoughts? If recommending carb please include needed riser to clear egr.
-Ignition, change to HEI, any recommended brand/part #?
-Cam, I know with low compression of 72 needs to be mild, heard recommended Edl 3712, is cam even worth money over stock?
-Headers, I know make sound better, any extra performance on stock motor? Also don't want low clearance, recommended brand/part #?
-Exhaust, change to dual 2.5", most recommend flowmaster, does X vs H really matter? recommended bolt on kit brand/part #?
-Tranny, should I get a shift kit / stall converter? if so brand/part #?


Sorry of some are sick of the intake/carb/cam thread but wanted specifics for my car and goals. I appreciate any help. Thanks
Old October 2nd, 2012 | 09:25 AM
  #2  
Eightupman's Avatar
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Posts: 1,190
From: Leasburg, NC
Stock non computerized HEI is fine... upgrade the module and coil to Accel parts or something similar. DO NOT use the exisiting coil wiring to power the HEI. Its a resistor wire that will not provide adequate voltage to the HEI. You will need to wire it direct to the your fuseblock with 12V ignition.

Compression is your friend, and some increase can be had with milling the heads/block. Aftermarket pistons generally sit an additional .020 in the bore, so a little off the block to true it up, and another bit off the heads brings it close to stock. Using Cometec or Cortico .028 (compressed) gaskets will also give you a little gain. Go too far and you will be needing 89 Octane or she will ping...

Yes to the shift kit. A stiffer shift is actually better than stock because the slippage takes away from the power transfer. The firmer the shift (that you can stand) the better.

2000 stall is probably sufficient with a mild cam, and increased compression. But there are going to be 1000 opinions on that, same thing with Cam and Carb combos. Everyone like something different. Everyone's butt dyno is different.

John
Old October 2nd, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #3  
Bad Mr B's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, (Olathe) Ks
Thanks for the info.

Guess I'm indirectly being told not to post specific questions on here, just an "I'm new, & Hello". I'll repost this in another category.
Old October 2nd, 2012 | 12:57 PM
  #4  
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Posts: 1,518
From: West Hartford, CT
First I would throw a Qjet (Sparky, Deano, "carbdoctor" in Line Lexington,PA) on a Performer or factory intake. Factory intakes (iron or aluminum A4) can be found very cheap but iron not shipped cheap.

Second I would add headers, Hooker Competition (small tubes - if not going much further w/mods) or Super Competition has larger tubes for room to grow. Combine this with a 2.5" dual exhaust system. I like X-pipes, some don't.

Third 3.23 or 3.42 limited slip.

You will feel the difference each step of the way, would be great to do intake / exhaust all together & try to dial the carb in.

HEI or electronic ignition conversion would not be wasting money but you won't feel anything out of it. There are a lot of people who defend good old points & they work fine, that's why this is last.

Those 3 sets of mods will totally transform the car performance wise without sacrificing driveability. Your butt dyno will go off the scale...initially, only time will tell if you want more. I personally would not molest that 58k engine with a cam swap unless you just need more than the basic bolt ons provide.
Old October 2nd, 2012 | 01:30 PM
  #5  
455man's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,070
From: Wichita, Ks
My suggestion would be to get an intake that does not have an EGR, unless you find one with an EGR dirt cheap.
Qjet or edlebrock for the carb. Holley is more of a race carb thats less friendly on the streets.
The H pipe is supposed to provide more torque and the X provides more HP. For street you probably want the H. 2.5" might be a little too big for a mild 350.
X2 on the shift kit.

Glad to see another Olds fan in Kansas.
Old October 4th, 2012 | 09:17 AM
  #6  
1ATony's Avatar
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72s a great year for a Cutlass, welcome

Tony
Old October 4th, 2012 | 03:30 PM
  #7  
oldcutlass's Avatar
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Posts: 41,156
From: Poteau, Ok
Sounds like your on the right track. Good luck.
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