70 cutlass ragtop dual exhaust upgrade
#1
70 cutlass ragtop dual exhaust upgrade
Greetings to all from a newbie
-replacing single exhaust w/ flow tech headers and Thrush turbo dual muffler kit
-replacing std rear end w/ 442 dual cut out bumper
-adding 442 tips
-350 4bbl stock engine is the motor I have in the cutlass.
Q-Any issues/advice on adding new headers to std Cutlass underside?
Q-Which tips/flutes would you recommend for an "original" 442 look? Pypes 442 exhaust tips are what I want to buy. Any opinions?
Great site. I appreciate any/all opinions.
Gino
-replacing single exhaust w/ flow tech headers and Thrush turbo dual muffler kit
-replacing std rear end w/ 442 dual cut out bumper
-adding 442 tips
-350 4bbl stock engine is the motor I have in the cutlass.
Q-Any issues/advice on adding new headers to std Cutlass underside?
Q-Which tips/flutes would you recommend for an "original" 442 look? Pypes 442 exhaust tips are what I want to buy. Any opinions?
Great site. I appreciate any/all opinions.
Gino
#2
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Headers are fine if you like them, but they have tight clearance on the starter and oil dip tube. That makes them a PITA to install. If you want to keep the stock exhaust manifold, there's a blockoff plate that can be bolted in to the driver's side crossover to make it into an N10 (factory option) exhaust. I've heard pros and cons of exhaust leaks with headers so it's a personal call.
You shouldn't have any problems with the rear bumper or trumpet exhaust tips. Most shops nowadays will sell them and install for you while the car is on the hoist. Pypes is a popular brand. Stainless steel of course. They need a special hanger to center the exhaust in the bumper.
Make sure the bumper is fitted right (gaps: top and side) before you do the exhaust.
Good luck with your project. Take pics before, during and after, then post them here for us to admire??
You shouldn't have any problems with the rear bumper or trumpet exhaust tips. Most shops nowadays will sell them and install for you while the car is on the hoist. Pypes is a popular brand. Stainless steel of course. They need a special hanger to center the exhaust in the bumper.
Make sure the bumper is fitted right (gaps: top and side) before you do the exhaust.
Good luck with your project. Take pics before, during and after, then post them here for us to admire??
#5
Welcome to CO, not sure about this but you may have to get a dual hump transmission brace to make room for the second exhaust pipe. I know that later Cutlass models did not have it standard.
#7
#8
I bought a new tube for mine about 5 years ago and I had to scour the country to get it. The correct one has been discontinued for a LONG time.
From Chris Witt's excellent part numbers database:
401567 - "INDICATOR, engine oil level [dipstick] , 20-5/8"" [short type]
Olds 68 (Late) - 73 350 & all small blocks exc. Toronado
Mates Guide Tube #401568 = 14.8"" OAL/9.66"" top part"
I think you can easily find a later year replacement tube, but it has to be used with the correct matching indicator, and they will be longer than the originals.
I made sure that my correct replacement 401568 tube would survive by sanding down the "bump" so it was a slip-fit and then wrapping Teflon tape around it so it fit snugly. Now anytime I want to remove the tube, I just pull on it and it comes out easily.
From Chris Witt's excellent part numbers database:
401567 - "INDICATOR, engine oil level [dipstick] , 20-5/8"" [short type]
Olds 68 (Late) - 73 350 & all small blocks exc. Toronado
Mates Guide Tube #401568 = 14.8"" OAL/9.66"" top part"
I think you can easily find a later year replacement tube, but it has to be used with the correct matching indicator, and they will be longer than the originals.
I made sure that my correct replacement 401568 tube would survive by sanding down the "bump" so it was a slip-fit and then wrapping Teflon tape around it so it fit snugly. Now anytime I want to remove the tube, I just pull on it and it comes out easily.
Last edited by Fun71; February 27th, 2014 at 09:19 AM.
#9
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#11
That must depend upon the brand of headers. I haven't touched bolts or gaskets on mine since the last time I had them off, and that's been so many years I can't remember how long it's been. 8-10 years probably.
#12
A couple of tips.
First, use a slide hammer to remove the dipstick tube. I made an adapter for my slide hammer that is simply two bolts welded head-to-head. One screws into the slide hammer, the other is a slip fit into the end of the dipstick tube. Slide it into the tube and clamp with a vice grip on the outside of the tube (use electrical tape to protect the tube if you care).
Second, use embossed copper header gaskets.
Third, get a quick disconnect starter harness (like the one Moroso sells) to make your life easier. While the starter is out, you MIGHTASWELL replace the solenoid, brushes, and starter driver.
Fourth, be very careful when reinstalling the dipstick tube. You should only apply pressure above the bead that seats against the block. There's a special factory tool to do this, but some people have had success using an open end wrench that's exactly the right size and hammering on the wrench.
First, use a slide hammer to remove the dipstick tube. I made an adapter for my slide hammer that is simply two bolts welded head-to-head. One screws into the slide hammer, the other is a slip fit into the end of the dipstick tube. Slide it into the tube and clamp with a vice grip on the outside of the tube (use electrical tape to protect the tube if you care).
Second, use embossed copper header gaskets.
Third, get a quick disconnect starter harness (like the one Moroso sells) to make your life easier. While the starter is out, you MIGHTASWELL replace the solenoid, brushes, and starter driver.
Fourth, be very careful when reinstalling the dipstick tube. You should only apply pressure above the bead that seats against the block. There's a special factory tool to do this, but some people have had success using an open end wrench that's exactly the right size and hammering on the wrench.
#13
Something to think on with a convertible. A loud exhaust in a closed car becomes very loud with the top down. Then becomes a real headache when you take the family to the beach at 70 mph for 2-3 hours.
Larry
Larry
#14
Thanks to all for the detailed replies....what a brotherhood.
Yeah, I wanted more HP on a limited basis. I'm not a noise guy at all. Rumble, not grumble, right? So, the comments re- convertibles and dualie noise output are near and dear to me.
We'll see on the outcome. Keep the comments coming. As I find a few more dollares, I will hit you guys up for upcoming work like a new top to replace the duck tape and 30 yr old top. Thx all. gino
Yeah, I wanted more HP on a limited basis. I'm not a noise guy at all. Rumble, not grumble, right? So, the comments re- convertibles and dualie noise output are near and dear to me.
We'll see on the outcome. Keep the comments coming. As I find a few more dollares, I will hit you guys up for upcoming work like a new top to replace the duck tape and 30 yr old top. Thx all. gino
#15
I have the same except Hedmann headers on a '69 vert. Not too loud in my opinion (better than Flowmasters or glasspacks) but I have set off a 'vettes car alarm in a parking garage. Hard to describe, but seems quieter with the top down since the sound escapes rather than resonates off the roof, or maybe it's just the wind drowning it out. Headers may not make that much of a performance gain on stock 350, so consider duals off the factory manifolds if concerned about the sound.
#17
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#18
Welcome! I was thinking of going dual glasspacks on my 73' but I don't want to get into changing the headers, even without doing that it sounds like a bit of work lol Maybe just one is good enough And the noise would not bother me, I drove aircooled VW's for years, talk about not hearing after a long trip lol
#19
Any sound that we do hear is muffled from wind noise while driving.
And they sound awesome when your right foot lays into the pedal....
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