Hello from central Florida. I have recently acquired a 1956 model 88 from my grandpas garage. It was running when it was stored and it's been sitting since '77 in his garage.

The body is in near perfect condition, the doors all close properly and seal, the interior needs to be overhauled but still in great condition for being original. Some of the chrome is slightly corroded and there's a some minor dings in the front bumper.

I plan on restoring it and keeping it. The first order of business is getting it to run. I am not sure if the engine needs to be rebuilt yet, I'll take a few plugs out and stick a bore scope in the cylinders and see what she looks like.

If I am not mistaken, these engines needed a lead additive. If the engine needs to be rebuilt, other than hardened valves, what else do I need to do to it so it can run on unleaded?

 

So what's the story behind the Playboy bunny sticker in the back window? I also see a Chicago Cubs sticker and a nice 1960s/1970s-era peace sign. This car must have an interesting history. Exactly what kind of person was your grandfather back in his youth?


Also, why do you hate fiberglass?

 

You know, I'm not really sure. I know my dad and uncle drove it in the 70's, so I would put money on that they put those stickers back there.

The car came from northern Illinois so that would probably explain the Cubs sticker.

I hate fiber glass because I buy old surfboards and fix them up to use them. It's literally 100's of dollars cheaper than buying new boards. Fiber glass is great, it's the working with it and getting it to do what you want to do that sucks.

 

Welcome, looks like she's pretty solid. I would first spray some penetrant in the cylinders and see if the engine will turn by hand. If it does, throw some plugs in it, check the points, hook the fuel pump to a gas can, and let er rip.


Hardened seats are not really necessary.

 

I would put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and let them soak and turn them over a few times and let them soak some more. You may need to file the points and reset them to get it to run. If you get it running I would not worry too much about the valve seats right now. I doubt you will be running at consistent high RPM's that will damage the engine. I love the mid 50's Oldsmobiles and there are several of us on here that do. The next issue will be which transmission it has. Does it have P for Park on the shift indicator?

 

X2 on the mystery oil. Change the oil and filter before starting the car. I also recommend disconnecting the coil wire and turning the engine over several times with the starter to build oil pressure.

 

Yes, it has a park selection on the shift indicator, why wouldn't it?

 

If memory serves me, the earlier Hydramatic transmissions locked in Reverse, and did not have a "park" position, but I'm not sure of the years anymore....it was a long time ago! And reverse was the lowest position on the detent, not up near the park position.

But I agree on the removal of the sparkplugs, and the penetrating oil soak.

I started a couple of 1941 Cadillac engines that had been sitting for many YEARS; I used a mixture of auto transmission fluid, kerosene, and Mopar heat riser solvent, and flooded the cylinders with it; let it sit for a week or so, and then turned the engine by hand until it no longer had any resistance when turning with the plugs removed. Be sure that all of the fluid is expelled from the cylinders before reinstalling new sparkplugs, and turning it over with the starter, or you may break something!!!

Also, do not try to use the fuel in the tank; hook up the fuel pump to a separate source of FRESH gasoline; today's gas sucks....goes bad VERY quickly.....and it probably will not run on what's in the tank!

Good luck with your car......and give it a good bath and polish while you are waiting for the engine to "soak"!

 

This might be of interest. It's from a '56 Olds sales brochure specifically devoted to the new transmission that year. Note the image of the shift quadrant in the lower right of the second image. They were still putting Reverse at the far right instead of between P and N as it is now. That change would come later.

 

I've run a 1955 Olds, which has a similar engine, on unleaded fuel ever since we got the lead out. So far I can't detect any shortfalls. If you're nervous about it, there are fuel additives. The increased use of ethanol may actually cause more (different) problems, if that trend continues.
Depending on the engine's condition upon storage and how carefully you do the revival, an overhaul may not even be needed.

 

All I know is what I have read on here but the Jetaway is not as good as the earlier slant pan dramatic. I am sure others with some experience will speak up. One other thing y out might consider is pulling the valve covers before you turn the engine over so you can watch and see if you have any stuck valves.

 

Even though the slant pan is much stronger than the jetaway there is nothing basic wrong with it per say. Remember it was offered in 300 hp cars and held up well for years. It also has smoother shift points than a slant pan and was preferred by the ladies of the era.

Lets see what problems arise after a attempt of start up an go from there, remember there probably was a reason it was parked years ago and no doubt hasn't fixed it self over the years of slumber. Keep us posted....Lost in the fifties ...Tedd

 

I will definitely not run ethanol gas if I can help it, as there's several gas stations in town that sell ethanol free gas. However; if I drive cross country I probably wont have a choice.

 

Ethanol is the enemy but there is stuff you can put in the gas to combat it.

 

If you run the car every day on the freeway, then worry about the valves and hard seats. I bet the car will be a weekend cruiser, so no worries. A little additive every couple of weeks, should be good.
Yes you should clean the gas tank and fuel lines. Do like has been said about engine prep, then a new battery, crank it over with the starter, for oil pressure, and then draw the fuel from the gallon fuel can, then fire it up. If all is well, hook up the gas tank and check it out.
Make sure the brakes are good and the trans has fluid.
let us know how it all works out.

Gene

 

I pulled the spark plugs out and stuck a bore scope in the cylinders. I discovered pitting in one of the pistons, 2 of the cylinder walls, one of the intake valves looked as if the seat was eroding away, and several rust spots.

Looks like this engine is going to have to come apart anyways, hopefully the pits can be bored out.

 

Agreed. The bore scope revealed the problems. Disassembly will be needed to save it. Best wishes.

 

Welcome from another 56 owner. Good luck on getting her running again.
Rick

 

What is the easiest way to get the engine and transmission out? Pull them both at the same time, or one at a time? Also if I pull them both at the same time, do i take everything out through the engine bay, or drop it out the bottom?

I will be doing this in a home garage with an engine hoist, stand, and a couple of jack stands.

 

The best and easiest way is together. Take out through the engine bay. I always pull the radiator support, bumper and grill on my 57 makes pulling the engine a lot easier and less chance of damage. Just my 2 cents

 

I am sure some of the Olds experts here, that have done this before, can tell you the best way to pull the engine/trans.

But I'm going to go out on a limb here, and suggest the engine soak with the above suggested penetrants, and fresh oil/filter, and turn the engine by hand gently, and try to start it. If the engine is free, you will do little to no damage....and you may just be surprised at how well it runs after it has been "wakened up"; these engine are tough, and unless it was parked due to an internal engine problem, it will probably be OK for a while until you really wish to properly freshen/rebuild it! JMO!

I know I will probably catch a lot of grief for this.....BUT....I have done it before, and all was usually well.....

 

Good call, I need to take the radiator out anyways and send it off to get resealed. Thanks for the tips!

Also, does anybody know of a reputable outfit where I can get my torque wrench calibrated?

 

On a 55 which is probably closer in design to a 56 than a 56 is to a 57 I found no reason to remove the bumper , there was plenty of room as I remember for everything to clear after the radiator supports were removed.

Just remember that that whole mess is very heavy so use a good device to extract that iron.....Tedd

 

I used to calibrate torque wrenches when I was in the USAF about a hundred years ago. I would try calling a snapon dealer or maybe one of the better engine shops and ask them where they get theirs calibrated, Be sure and use a 2,000 pound engine hoist because you will be pushing a 1,000 pounds with the engine and transmission together.

 

I would agree with R-body mopar, I would try to start it first. If you get it to run, might give you a better idea if it needs more than you thought.

But if and when you do need to pull the engine, I would pull one at a time. Pull the eng , drop the trans out the bottom. It is so much easier to me. For me you don't have to pull the front end off the car.
Also make sure you drain all fluids, engine and the trans, eliminates a mess on the floor and you.
But try and see if it will run then go from there.

Gene

 

Gene I don't know if you have ever pulled a first generation Old's motor before but it differs quite a bit from the later engines. There are about 30 1/4 28 bolts that hold the transmission to the flex plate and after those are removed( rather tedious if you don't have a lift and are on your back) the transmission must be supported at all the time because of the rear motor mounts (actually transmission mounts)won't support the transmission by them self. Plus the car is not movable till the transmission is out of there. I've done it both ways and found that it was much faster to pull it out the top.....Your mileage may differ ....Tedd

 

I took the plugs out and sprayed the cylinders with PB. The engine turns and feels like it turns normally. I stuck a bore scope down the cylinders and had a friend rotate the engine, I observed all 16 valves operating normally.

Just gotta send my starter motor off to be rebuilt, some new plugs, oil, filter, and battery and hopefully she'll fire. Probably a good idea to swap the points too.

 

You can probably just file the points and set them at 16 thousandths until you get it started. If the 56 has the external adjustment distributor, set the dwell at 30 degrees after you get it running.