Figured I'd start a new thread since this is a different project than my first and will be completed sooner. In short, pulled the 330 engine from my car, along with the front end, and will transplant a 455. Recently picked up a correct 400 engine and will save it. In the process of finishing painting and putting the suspension back together. Haven't started the 455 build but once the suspension is done, will start it. Have 2 455's, one 68 block with forged crank and one 70 block with "N" crank. Think I'm going to build the 70 block for now and keep it somewhat stock. Will save the 68 block for the other car.

 

Some more pics.

 

I guess the title is a little misleading since the pictures are of the under hood prep work. The engine I'll build is on the stand using parts from the middle engine in the picture of three. I also have the TH400 to rebuild also.

 

Very cool x2!!!

 

Really nice!

 

Well the suspension is finished and will be starting the engine build soon.

 

Looks nice. I assume you chose the colors underneath that you wanted vs. original. The original all black or unpainted is not so striking as what you chose. Good luck with your build.

 

Well I picked up another 455 block for my build, 76' FA block. It's been bored .030 over and I got the rods and pistons also. I have a 68 forged crank and a "N" crank already. Since the block and pistons are in great shape, it'll be done sooner. Dressed it up a little.

 

Well I picked up the set of heads that were on the block that I bought a few weeks ago, got the crank also. "E" heads that have been ported and polished. They have been milled .060, I think they're 69-70cc's because off that. Also the exhaust port side has been milled down so the middle divider is even with the ports. The intake side was milled down also, not sure why. Nice port job though, should flow well.

I'm curious what compression ratio will be.
L2323F pistons .030 over
Block decked .040
Heads milled .060
Piston deck height unknown at this time
Head gasket thickness .032

 

Got the crank and pistons in. Painted engine first to see the color combo. Took one of the Carter's apart and don't think I'll be able to use it. The other one was bought new 30 years ago, it's probably not good either. Might have to get a Torker and Holley combo. The deck height is basically zero, might be real close to 11.0:1.

 

I assume the FA block is going to be in front of an automatic trans.

 

Yeah kinda wish the block had the clutch ball provision otherwise I'd make the car a 4-speed. Funny the crank is drilled for one. I guess it's best not to mess with the car too much that way I can put it back to a semi original or stock state if need be.

 

Way to go. Keep us updated.

 

Thanks, sure will. Looking to have it running before winter sets in. Don't have much time.

 

We are getting snowed on this morning so too late to drive mine before winter sets in.

 

Well I decided to use my dual Carter setup for now to keep costs down. Rebuilt and painted both carbs. Looks okay for being 30+ years old.

 

Well Santa came early, just waiting on some Harland Sharp 1.7:1 rockers, Cometic .027 gaskets, 2" carb spacers, Pypes 3" exhaust system, Spin Tech Sportsman mufflers, and my limited slip assy with 3.90 gears for my "O" rear. Then it's time to fire up the heater and hit the garage. Actually might have to wait until early spring unless we get some warmer days.

 

Got the oil pan, timing cover, water pump and heads on. Did a mock up with the spacers, definitely looks different. Need to paint them. Maybe it'll be in the car New Years weekend.

 

Looking sweet, can you say varoom!!!!!!!!!!

 

Wow that looks nice! I'll bet it's the first time anyone's used a dual carb setup to save some cash Clark Howard would be impressed

 

I've had the carbs and manifold since the late 70's so I only got about 60 bucks invested in the rebuild kits and paint. I really wanted a Torker and 850 Holley, maybe next year, I'll see how these work. I also decided to forgo the Harlands and get a set of standard ratio Comp Cam die cast aluminum rollers and use a standard Felpro head gasket instead of a cometic and save 200 bucks. With the Felpro I'm still looking at roughly 10.7:1 compression. Even still, I'm over my planned budget. Yes I can definitely say varoom..... My wife, on the other hand, says things I can't repeat here.

 

Sweet!!!!!

 

looks great, ill swap ya my torker for that manifold? lol are you gonna be able to close your hood with them on there?

 

I did mount it on my other car and it will be close. I got a fiberglass hood so if I have to put a hole in it, no big deal. I should have gotten the cowl induction hood in the first place.

 

Valve train is finally complete. Valve covers did go on with the rockers installed, thought I may have to get taller covers. Also installed the exhaust crossover plugs. It took a few hours to make them fit. Also installed the correct water pump, had gotten one for A/C thinking it would pump more water by the looks of the blades but after installing it I couldn't line up my pulleys cause it stuck out about 1/2 inch farther than the one for non A/C. Getting close to putting the motor in the car.

 

I haven't given any details about the engine / car build so here it goes:

'76 455 block .030 over decked .040
Stock "N" crank .010/.010 with stock rods.
Speed Pro L2323F pistons .002 in the hole (barely)
Felpro head gasket .040
"E" heads milled .060, Bowls and runners ported / polished.
Roughly 10.7:1 comp
Milodon Stainless 2.07"/1.710" valves
Melling HV oil pump, Moroso 7 qt pan
Lunati VooDoo 60805 cam 241/249 , .539/.555 , 110/106
Lunati springs and lifters
Comp Cams roller rockers, hardened push rods and dual roller chain
MSD ignition, billet distributor
Edelbrock (065) dual quad manifold with Carter Comp Series 750's and 2 inch spacers.
Doug Thorley headers (1970's era)
Pypes 3 inch stainless exhaust with X-pipe
SpinTech Sportsman mufflers.
Hughes 3,000 stall converter
TH400 with B&M TransPak shift kit with B&M pan.
Waiting on my 3.90 "Posi" unit.

No guesses on HP / Torque. Will it run? It's got to run better than the 330 I pulled that was probably running on less than eight cylinders

 

Hey brother Happy New Year, Her are some potential issues I had with my 67 442 Tribute car build that may help-My cam choice Comp Cams XE274 has simular specs and I had very little vacumm to stop the car at a high speed safely with PB. And in the fact if you install tall valve covers you will NOT be able to pull the driver side valve cover off without removing the master cylinder and vacumm booster. So when I restored the front end it included a 72 Cutlass disc brake system. The manual master cylinder I ordered from MP brakes part #MC11505M. I also installed Vista Cruiser rear wheel brake cylinders, believe they are 1 inch. The car stops fine. The motor build sounds great, with the estimated CP ratio on cast iron heads you may be very close to having to mix some race gas in the 93.

 

Also if you need help with a radiator selection I can help you save a ton of time and money $$$$. My beast runs 160-180 degress that's it however I'm running aluminum heads and intake, this tends to disipate heat alot faster, thus also allowing for a little more total advance timing-Currently I'm at 36 degress without a hitch on 93 pump gas. Robski's two cents worth today.

 

Thanks "therobski", looks like you have a nice setup also.
I was thinking of converting to manual brakes. My blue car would be happy to give up its setup for now. I got the valve covers to fit so no problem there if I elect to keep the Power brakes and try a vacuum canister. I've decided to go to manual steering also.
Radiator, I haven't thought about that yet. The one from the car is a two row I think, my other car has a 4 row. I got a shroud to use but I'll have to figure out what to do otherwise. I'm already over budget.

 

Well I traded in my power steering and brakes for manual. Also got the tranny ready, installed a TransGo shift kit and larger pan. Need to order shorter push rods, thought I had the correct length but the valve covers hit the poly locks when tightened down. A gasket may take up the space but it's still too close. Mocked the engine up with the headers to check mounting since the exhaust side of the heads were milled. Will have to grind a little from the bottom flange. May install engine next weekend or may wait until valve train is done.

 

Very nice build. It looks great. Just a thought but shorter pushrods may throw out proper valve train geometry.
My last 455 was built a lot like yours and it worked great.

 

I'm going to keep the push rods I got. The whole reason to change was valve cover clearance, now with the brake booster gone I can get taller covers if need be.

 

I noticed on your firewall picture is, that the factory "pot medal" carb/trans linkage painted silver? I had trouble with those, broke two of them in half! The second one "Gearheads" had laying around. The only thing I could figure out is the age factor or the monster torque from the 455 snapped them. The engine and trans mounts and are fine, was running drag radials but there still was alot of give before I hooked up. So I took the one off my 64 post car which is alot sturdier, but have been looking at what Lokar has to offer, seems their XBAG-6129 for a 67 Chevelle may work for the carb linkage, but have not ordered one yet.

 

I'll keep an eye on the linkage. I got Edelbrocks throttle linkage kit for the carbs, will have to see how it hooks up with the stock linkage.
Silver probably isn't correct but it'll keep it from rusting, the trans switch I left natural. I'm not correct for most of the suspension, got some color though. Lost some color when I removed the power booster.

 

I would too after you get that buggy in the street, I had to call a flat bed on the second one

 

Well I attempted to mount my manifold today and managed to waste four or five hours and a new intake gasket trying to get the thing lined up. I came to the conclusion (duh) that an intake made for a stock engine is not going to mount to a block that has been decked and a set of heads that have been milled on three of the four sides.
I did manage to get all but 3 bolts in. The threaded holes were to low compared to the intake holes. I had put RTV in place of the rubber end gaskets but too much space existed so I pull the manifold back off, couldn't get the last bolts in anyway.
While I wait for some new gaskets and bolts, I'm going to trim those rubber gaskets so they're not so thick then use them with the RTV. The manifold lines up okay with no gaskets.
I plan on installing the engine and tranny tomorrow, intake installed or not.

 

When I put on an intake I only have used a good bead of RTV instead of the front and rear rubber gaskets. No issues, and my Torker on the 455 is port matched/milled to the Edelbrock heads. Was I just lucky or what? I would like to hear from others in the club.

 

You were lucky for sure. I didn't use very much RTV the first time, so maybe I'll be more generous with it the next time.

 

Yes, engine and transmission going in today. But wait, torque converter won't install in transmission, input shaft would not fit. Wasted a full day only to find out I have to return my Hughes converter. Any torque converter suggestions? I have the Switch Pitch TH400 and that might be the problem. I believe the input shaft is different. In the mean time I finally got the intake on, now whether it leaks or not is up in the air. Two bolts were trouble. Had to re-tap a hole to get one started and the other well I care not to describe. I think the threads on the heads have seen better days.

 

The bolt pattern for a 330-400 flexplate is different than a 455. Don't know if that has anything to do with your problem....