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I’m not sure why I didn’t start posting on here sooner but starting now… I may be crazy or bored but I am deciding to complete a frame off restoration of a family heirloom that has been in ours for around 40 years. Since I’m a Millennial, I get a little impatient at times so some pictures were not taken but I plan to post/take as much as I can along the way. After all, this is the first car I had ridden in that had some power. This is also the car I took to High School Prom…Also the same car I went sideways in (accidentally) on a rainy day. That scared the $%&# out of my friends and I. I have respected it ever since.
I’m focused on restoring this back to a factory like condition. This is a non-number matching car including its current color scheme. I will start by posting what it looked like prior to the teardown, which I have already in the Newbie section, but I felt like this is the best place to post everything as its a project.
I will definitely need some help along the way which is why I have finally joined this community. My knowledge is limited on classic cars as I haven’t been exposed to many. My hope is to continue the legacy of this cars for the generation I am in. Hopefully Gas is not Illegal by the time I’m done! Please DM me with any questions!
Looks like a solid foundation. Floors trunk and frame as nice?
Sticking with gold gold or going back to green gold?
Original W25 car? If yes do you have the air cleaner assembly?
Looks like a solid foundation. Floors trunk and frame as nice?
Sticking with gold gold or going back to green gold?
Original W25 car? If yes do you have the air cleaner assembly?
I’ll post some pictures of the floors soon. Someone tried to save it with more bondo (the body panels have a decent amount) on the drivers side floor board/firewall. Looks like it was rusting out and they were trying to save it. Frame is in decent shape as it was undercoated at some point. Will have it set on a table once it’s removed to ensure it’s not bent. I have thought about going back with Sherwood green with gold stripes but would probably not do the vinyl gold top. That being said I’m about 50/50 and am also thinking about going back with gold on gold.
As for the w25… yes! I have the whole assembly. It’s not shown on the car as the tuning shop we had it at removed it and put a Holley carb on it with new breather. About a week later the shop spun the mains and a few rod bearings. It has always had the Rochester and w25 breather assembly prior to that. Unfortunately the shop sold the Rochester before we got it back. They wanted the w25 assembly but we demanded it back!
Interior prior to demo Body Cowl Tag Block Serial Tranny tag W27 rear end rear end stamp
I have two spare transmissions for this car. I will be looking to see if the others are matching the year. This is from a 77. I have not confirmed the rear end yet but would be excited if its original!
The rear end two digit code is on the passenger side tube upside down and most of the time hard to read.
Block appears to be out of a 72 A body or Vista. E is Linden so the block is from its home town.
Have you looked for a build sheet in the interior? A Linden car could have one.
2rd week of Sept 1969 build is an earlier build date.
If it were mine I'd go with the 53 Nugget or 55 Galleon and stay with the 934 interior. Screams 1970.
Always thought gold gold was a very sharp combo.
Green unless Radiant green never floated my boat. Same for vinyl tops (moisture traps).
Its not numbers matching you wont hurt its value making it your way.
Consider a modern 480LE trans. Again you wont hurt the value and you'll be able to cruise at 80 with a much lower rpm vs the TH400.
If the frame checks out look into Eastwoods internal frame coating.
While you have things apart and after final paint squirt some Krown, fluid film or LPS2 along the inter/exterior seams and cowl area. Get the rust worms where they live.
I’ll post some pictures of the floors soon. Someone tried to save it with more bondo (the body panels have a decent amount) on the drivers side floor board/firewall. Looks like it was rusting out and they were trying to save it. Frame is in decent shape as it was undercoated at some point. Will have it set on a table once it’s removed to ensure it’s not bent. I have thought about going back with Sherwood green with gold stripes but would probably not do the vinyl gold top. That being said I’m about 50/50 and am also thinking about going back with gold on gold.
As for the w25… yes! I have the whole assembly. It’s not shown on the car as the tuning shop we had it at removed it and put a Holley carb on it with new breather. About a week later the shop spun the mains and a few rod bearings. It has always had the Rochester and w25 breather assembly prior to that.Unfortunately the shop sold the Rochester before we got it back. They wanted the w25 assembly but we demanded it back!
My first advice would be to never take the car back to that "tuning shop". Unless you made a previous arrangement to sell the Quadrajet and apply it to your bill, they had no right to sell it. Whose idea was it to put a Holley on it ? If you haven't figured it out yet, the air cleaner is worth some money.
Since we don't know the engine condition, I suspect they had to work at it a bit to spin the mains and a few rod bearings. If you have anyone head or machine work or do any assembly, ask people here for recommendations. .
Last edited by OLDSter Ralph; Jan 20, 2026 at 09:21 AM.
The shop was a longstanding olds 442 shop where the owner raced many of the Olds he built. They were one of the best in the area at one point and had a many of recommendations in the area. We caught them at the end of their business it seems where they weren’t sharp it seems. They are since gone and the old man has retired. His kids didn’t carry on the business. My parents carried it there as it seemed we were never able to get a good A/F ratio. The car has a comp cam in it as well which seemed to require more fuel. That’s why the shop installed the Holley and a new fuel pump.
The shop was a longstanding olds 442 shop where the owner raced many of the Olds he built. They were one of the best in the area at one point and had a many of recommendations in the area. We caught them at the end of their business it seems where they weren’t sharp it seems. They are since gone...
The shop was a longstanding olds 442 shop where the owner raced many of the Olds he built. They were one of the best in the area at one point and had a many of recommendations in the area. We caught them at the end of their business it seems where they weren’t sharp it seems. They are since gone and the old man has retired. His kids didn’t carry on the business. My parents carried it there as it seemed we were never able to get a good A/F ratio. The car has a comp cam in it as well which seemed to require more fuel. That’s why the shop installed the Holley and a new fuel pump.
There are a lot of Olds engines running around with Quadrajets "and a cam". And those cars with W-30 cams were able to run and still are using Quadrajets.
The good thing is you are here now, and have access to the best Oldsmobile information available. Good luck.
There are a lot of Olds engines running around with Quadrajets "and a cam". And those cars with W-30 cams were able to run and still are using Quadrajets.
The good thing is you are here now, and have access to the best Oldsmobile information available. Good luck.
Thanks Ralph! Appreciate the knowledge and help. I’m looking forward to learning from people like you.
Had to dig into our archives but here are a few pictures of the car before it went dormant about 13 years ago.
These show a lot better condition from what is current due to rust and outdoor storage for 7 years. All are prior to taking it to the shop where it sat for a year and the bearings being spun.
Last edited by Galleon70; Jan 20, 2026 at 03:44 PM.
Looking for some assistance on motor rebuild recommendations. I have “E” heads on this block currently. Upon teardown of the motor I found a few things:
RTV blocking an oil passage: Oil Filter Block Mount
I believe this may have a lot to do with the reason bearing failure may have happened.
Last edited by Galleon70; Jan 20, 2026 at 03:45 PM.
Looking for some assistance on motor rebuild recommendations. I have “E” heads on this block currently. Upon teardown of the motor I found a few things:
RTV blocking an oil passage: Oil Filter Block Mount
I believe this may have a lot to do with the reason bearing failure may have happened.
I would use recommendations from people on this site from your area who have had work done by shops on Oldsmobile engines. It may seem expensive to have it done right, but "do overs" cost twice as much.
I would use recommendations from people on this site from your area who have had work done by shops on Oldsmobile engines. It may seem expensive to have it done right, but "do overs" cost twice as much.
Copy that! We will be having a family friend machine shop spec the motor out. Taking it in this Friday hopefully if snow doesn’t change things.
I’m concerned with the cylinder walls currently. I’m not looking for power on this build but only long term success and reliability of the engine. If the scoring (which I know there is some) is excessive, how far can this block go without a sleeve? I’ve read .060 but am looking for a bit more confidence at this point. Any upgrades to stock internals that would make it more reliable/long term. Money isn’t really a concern to an extent but factory-like is the goal.
If you have some cash stashed BTR in Rochester NY will build you a bullet proof 4,5-600HP pump gas engine...for probably not much more than you're gona get charged for a ground up build anywhere else. Bill and his crew know their **** about Olds engines.
[QUOTE=droldsmorland;1666737]If you have some cash stashed BTR in Rochester NY will build you a bullet proof 4,5-600HP pump gas engine...for probably not much more than you're gona get charged for a ground up build anywhere else. Bill and his crew know their **** about Olds engines.
1970 442 Frame Off Resto-Mod
