1970 Cutlass W-31 Frame Off Restoration - Page 2 - ClassicOldsmobile.com

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1970 Cutlass W-31 Frame Off Restoration

1970 Cutlass W-31 Frame Off Restoration

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Old June 17th, 2018, 08:13 PM
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Scored some nice pieces that I needed over the weekend at the homecoming show in Lansing. Found NOS endlinks at a good price and picked up a pair of NOS OAI springs. Spent an hour this afternoon cleaning up hardware from the Evaporust buckets and threw a ton of other hardware in for the next few days.

I cleaned up all four crossmember bolts, and three of the four have the same head markings and the fourth has the ĎTRí. Which is correct?






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Old June 17th, 2018, 08:25 PM
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Taillight screws

Also, whatís the factory finish on the taillight screws? All 16 of them had a dull finish compared to the reverse light lenses. Did they really fade that badly?
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Old June 17th, 2018, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by WTHIRTY1 View Post
Also, whatís the factory finish on the taillight screws? All 16 of them had a dull finish compared to the reverse light lenses. Did they really fade that badly?
Twilight screws are a semi flat black oxidey type finish. Reverse lamps are bright Zinc.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by costpenn View Post
Twilight screws are a semi flat black oxidey type finish. Reverse lamps are bright Zinc.
Perfect, thanks Joe.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 01:54 PM
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Is there a different jack stowage decal for the back of the trunk lid for cars that have steel wheels vs. SS2's? I know the setup is different with the lug clips, but what about for the decal?
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Old June 19th, 2018, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by WTHIRTY1 View Post
Is there a different jack stowage decal for the back of the trunk lid for cars that have steel wheels vs. SS2's? I know the setup is different with the lug clips, but what about for the decal?
yes, soon (I hope) I'll have the SSI/SSII decals. the steel wheel decal will be started shortly
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Old June 24th, 2018, 08:40 AM
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Weekend update

Not much to update as far as progress this week. Hoping to have the frame back next weekend. Still need to get the bushings and ball joints removed from the original control arms. Looking for some ďpro tipsĒ on how best to get the bushings out.

Spent an hour organizing and cleaning hardware for the frame. Someone took a spray can to the chassis at some point so a lot of the hardware needs to be soaked in paint thinner.

The rear sway bar bolts are by far the worst of any Iíve cleaned so far. Thinking maybe itís corrosion from the spacers but not entirely sure.

I was able to successfully locate an original 1108387 0 A 9 starter which will work since the car is 03/70. The last part elluding me is a correct date coded 1100879 alternator.





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Old July 1st, 2018, 07:47 AM
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Update

Not too much to share as far as progress this past week. Still waiting to get the frame back from the shop. Had a few cool items arrive this week. The first was a care package from the original owner of the car which included the factory fan and OU fan clutch. He also came across the original clock and packaged that up, too.

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Old July 1st, 2018, 07:49 AM
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Bushings

Picked up a set of NOS bushings for the front control arms. Does anyone have a good solution for removing the old bushings from the control arms?

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Old July 1st, 2018, 12:39 PM
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Drill out the old bushings from the metal shell. The use a punch/chisel to collapse the metal shell. Punch out the metal shell and ready to install new ones after cleaning up the control arms.
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Old July 1st, 2018, 07:31 PM
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Control Arms

Ball joints removed on the upper and lower control arms. Has anyone tried the bolts Inline carries for the ball joints where the top looks like a rivet and the bottom has the nut? If so, how do you get them tight?



Drilled out the original rivets.


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Old July 2nd, 2018, 08:48 AM
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I used the bolts/rivets.


They have an edge large enough to garb with soft jawed pliers to stop them from turning for torqueing. I used blue locktite.


I wish I had spent the NOS money and bought the upper ball joints as NOS as the repop are not similar. (the top is raised on OEM)


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Old July 2nd, 2018, 10:10 AM
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Great find! Along for the ride. Keep up the good work! My Twiligjt Blue 442 was just painted. It is an awesome color!
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 01:35 PM
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to remove the bushings no need to drill first just dent the metal part and spray penetrant in they will knock or press out easily
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Troys Toy 70 View Post
Great find! Along for the ride. Keep up the good work! My Twiligjt Blue 442 was just painted. It is an awesome color!
It's definitely a sweet color combo with the twilight blue paint and light blue interior. With that being said, I'm definitely not looking forward to the 50 shades of blue interior paints / dyes.
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger View Post
to remove the bushings no need to drill first just dent the metal part and spray penetrant in they will knock or press out easily
Thanks, I'll give this a try tomorrow. Hoping to get the bushings out this week and the arms over to the blaster.
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by WTHIRTY1 View Post
I cleaned up all four crossmember bolts, and three of the four have the same head markings and the fourth has the ‘TR’. Which is correct?


Answered my own question after combing through the AMK catalogs. The correct bolt head marking is 'TR' for the crossmember bolts. Also, interesting to note the PIM reflects the bolts and nuts as being installed with the nut above OR below. My 12/69 W-31 has the nuts on the bottom and this 03/70 W-31 had the nuts on top.
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Old July 11th, 2018, 11:49 AM
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I had an opportunity to pull the oil pan last night. The engine was pulled in 1979 for a rebuild (and a coat of blue paint), and has just 4,000 miles over the last 39 years. From the original owner, the engine was blowing a bit of smoke so he opted for a rebuild. Despite the bottom of the pan looking a bit beat up, everything appears to be clean. I’m asking this group to take a look at the pictures and let me know if anything jumps out. I’m not sure what was included in the rebuild, outside of replacing the 194 cam with a Lunati cam, and I'm hopeful I won't need to tear this thing down. It looks like the crank has a ‘229’ Julian date stamped on it.





















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Old July 11th, 2018, 12:04 PM
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Looks clean.....timing chain is a non roller type.

Pistons look like TRWs, stock rods.

If it were me, I would totally disassemble it and look at the clearances, the bearings, and the balance.

At a Minimum: New bearings, rings, oil pump, gaskets. Would probably replace the cam and lifters with a roller type.
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Old July 12th, 2018, 08:27 PM
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Intake

Dropped off the original W-350 intake manifold, along with a spare intake, to be vapor blasted. I wasn’t as familiar with this approach as say sand blasting or glass beading, but I have to say this turned out awesome! I used a shop called Vapor-Shine located in the Naperville Iron Gate Motor Condos and am very pleased with the results.












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Old July 20th, 2018, 10:17 AM
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Still waiting for the frame to be completed. In the interim, I took the matching numbers JO trans over to the same shop that cleaned up my intake. Looks like original owner slapped a few coats of paint on the trans over the years. The trans was rebuilt back in 1982 (shop still exists in Cleveland!), but I’ll be finding a local shop to go through it. When I called the number on the vintage receipt for the trans shop, they told me I was lucky to have the original trans still. They said back in the day that instead of rebuilding a Turbo 350, they’d just swap another unit in its place and keep the original as a core.











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Old July 20th, 2018, 03:10 PM
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W 31

Just beautiful beautiful work
Do not give up
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Old July 20th, 2018, 08:40 PM
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The bottom of the pan is a bit of a different story. After blasting the dirt, grease, and old paint, we discovered some patch work on the trans pan. Surprisingly, it didnít leak but itíll need to be replaced.

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Old July 21st, 2018, 09:58 PM
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Had a bit of rain in Chicago this morning but managed to pick up the frame from the shop. The quality of the blast and powder turned out well. The frame was pretty pitted on the top side near the rear shock mount area. The front half was covered in grease and oil which appears to have preserved the metal of the frame quite nicely. Iíll start the reassembly next weekend. Itís a small step but still very exciting.









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Old July 27th, 2018, 10:36 AM
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Brakes!

Last week, I sent my master cylinder and calipers to White Post. Their services includes striping the parts, honing the cylinders, and installing all new parts and fittings before painting. They did a nice job, but Iím a little unsure of the zinc dichromate finish on the lid as it looks a little off. Iím going to paint the MC black, too, instead of the cast color they sprayed it with. Thoughts?






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Old July 27th, 2018, 06:36 PM
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The MC is supposed to be a natural cast color and not black if I'm not mistaken.
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Old July 27th, 2018, 09:38 PM
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What don't you like on the MC cap? It looks like the typical yellow zinc finish which can be a varying "mixture" of "silvery" areas and "gold" (ie - yellow) areas. Seems to be a decent finish on the cap when looking at your second pic that shows the top of the cap.
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Old July 28th, 2018, 06:47 AM
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The restored master cylinder and caliper look dynamite. Thanks for sharing pics.
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Old July 28th, 2018, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by stlbluesbrother View Post
The restored master cylinder and caliper look dynamite. Thanks for sharing pics.
White Post did a nice job. As for the MC lid the zinc finish seemed a bit dull, but it was just the finish through the clear plastic packaging. All good.

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Old July 28th, 2018, 09:33 PM
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Progress

Had a few hours to get organized in the garage and start working towards a rolling chassis. Iím glad I took a page out of Costpennís book and started refurbishing the hardware right away. It has been nice having all the hardware ready to go.

I went with Inlineís brake line clip set. The colors are spot on as far as the anodized green ďgrasshopperĒ clips for the front as well as the blue clip near the rear. The only noticeable difference from the originals, outside of the green clips saying INL and the size etched in, is the indentation on the clip prong itself. I installed their OEM lines, and the fit was perfect.

When I took the body mounts off the car I numbered and bagged them individually. I put them back out today to assess the colors, and Iím 100% positive one of my spacers is all white. I also donít have multiple shades of green / aquaóitís just a solid aqua for the other mounts.

Once my original fuel line clips are finished soaking in paint thinner tomorrow, Iíll clean them up and get the fuel lines in. The control arms, sway bars, and spring should be completed this week which should help move things along.









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Old July 28th, 2018, 09:39 PM
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Bushings

Need help on this. I tried a couple different colors tonight for the mounts. Not sure I love either shade.

Inlineís kit for my W-31 (and I say it that way bc Iím not sure if other W-Machines had different bushing configurations) is short 4 spacers. I also have two really concave looking mounts in the kit, but Iím assuming those are 71/72 or convertible as they donít match my originals.

Do I bother replicating the single all white spacer mount since thatís what was there originally? Or do I just go all aqua? I know the PIM calls out different shades of green, but I donít see it with my originals.

Lastly, the color of the core support rubber mounts should be what? White?




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Old July 29th, 2018, 08:15 AM
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You are making great progress. At least I have an idea what I will be up against in the future.
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Old July 29th, 2018, 10:59 AM
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The core support mounts were natural black - it's all I have ever seen. I included below a couple of pics - one of the original non- bolt mount from my car and the other of the rest of the mounts after I painted them. These colors were an exact match to the colors I could still find on my originals. One disclaimer - my car was built in Fremont so it's entirely possible that colors were different.
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Old July 29th, 2018, 11:39 AM
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I thought all W cars were built in Lansing?
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Old July 29th, 2018, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocketguy View Post
I thought all W cars were built in Lansing?
They were. He was stating the difference in finishes between plants.
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Old July 29th, 2018, 12:09 PM
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My original fuel line clips arenít cleaning up as well as I had hoped. I canít seem to find the correct ones from Inline. Any W-Machine owners with a recommendation? Looking for the 4 galvanized metal-esque clips.
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Old July 29th, 2018, 01:45 PM
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Red face

Originally Posted by WTHIRTY1 View Post


They were. He was stating the difference in finishes between plants.
Got it. I mistook him for you, apologies
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Old July 29th, 2018, 05:34 PM
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Correct color


Connected with someone on the Facebook group that is hooking me up with a sample of a batch they had made up for the bushings. The color looks dead on.
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Old July 29th, 2018, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by WTHIRTY1 View Post
Need help on this. I tried a couple different colors tonight for the mounts. Not sure I love either shade.

Inlineís kit for my W-31 (and I say it that way bc Iím not sure if other W-Machines had different bushing configurations) is short 4 spacers. I also have two really concave looking mounts in the kit, but Iím assuming those are 71/72 or convertible as they donít match my originals.

Do I bother replicating the single all white spacer mount since thatís what was there originally? Or do I just go all aqua? I know the PIM calls out different shades of green, but I donít see it with my originals.

Lastly, the color of the core support rubber mounts should be what? White?
concave washer body mount is for convertible
And their one size fits all kit is always short four spacers for holiday coupe vehicles

I say replicate the white mount since you can document it as originally on the car

core support bushings, at least for 69, have a white stripe.

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Old July 29th, 2018, 07:44 PM
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Excellent work!
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