1970 Cutlass W-31 Frame Off Restoration - Page 2 - ClassicOldsmobile.com


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Old June 17th, 2018, 07:13 PM   #41  
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Scored some nice pieces that I needed over the weekend at the homecoming show in Lansing. Found NOS endlinks at a good price and picked up a pair of NOS OAI springs. Spent an hour this afternoon cleaning up hardware from the Evaporust buckets and threw a ton of other hardware in for the next few days.

I cleaned up all four crossmember bolts, and three of the four have the same head markings and the fourth has the ‘TR’. Which is correct?






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Old June 17th, 2018, 07:25 PM   #42  
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Taillight screws

Also, what’s the factory finish on the taillight screws? All 16 of them had a dull finish compared to the reverse light lenses. Did they really fade that badly?
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Old June 17th, 2018, 10:09 PM   #43  
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Also, what’s the factory finish on the taillight screws? All 16 of them had a dull finish compared to the reverse light lenses. Did they really fade that badly?
Twilight screws are a semi flat black oxidey type finish. Reverse lamps are bright Zinc.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 12:52 PM   #44  
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Twilight screws are a semi flat black oxidey type finish. Reverse lamps are bright Zinc.
Perfect, thanks Joe.
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Old June 18th, 2018, 12:54 PM   #45  
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Is there a different jack stowage decal for the back of the trunk lid for cars that have steel wheels vs. SS2's? I know the setup is different with the lug clips, but what about for the decal?
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Old June 19th, 2018, 08:58 AM   #46  
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Is there a different jack stowage decal for the back of the trunk lid for cars that have steel wheels vs. SS2's? I know the setup is different with the lug clips, but what about for the decal?
yes, soon (I hope) I'll have the SSI/SSII decals. the steel wheel decal will be started shortly
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Old June 24th, 2018, 07:40 AM   #47  
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Weekend update

Not much to update as far as progress this week. Hoping to have the frame back next weekend. Still need to get the bushings and ball joints removed from the original control arms. Looking for some “pro tips” on how best to get the bushings out.

Spent an hour organizing and cleaning hardware for the frame. Someone took a spray can to the chassis at some point so a lot of the hardware needs to be soaked in paint thinner.

The rear sway bar bolts are by far the worst of any I’ve cleaned so far. Thinking maybe it’s corrosion from the spacers but not entirely sure.

I was able to successfully locate an original 1108387 0 A 9 starter which will work since the car is 03/70. The last part elluding me is a correct date coded 1100879 alternator.





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Old July 1st, 2018, 06:47 AM   #48  
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Update

Not too much to share as far as progress this past week. Still waiting to get the frame back from the shop. Had a few cool items arrive this week. The first was a care package from the original owner of the car which included the factory fan and OU fan clutch. He also came across the original clock and packaged that up, too.

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Old July 1st, 2018, 06:49 AM   #49  
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Bushings

Picked up a set of NOS bushings for the front control arms. Does anyone have a good solution for removing the old bushings from the control arms?

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Old July 1st, 2018, 11:39 AM   #50  
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Drill out the old bushings from the metal shell. The use a punch/chisel to collapse the metal shell. Punch out the metal shell and ready to install new ones after cleaning up the control arms.
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Old July 1st, 2018, 06:31 PM   #51  
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Control Arms

Ball joints removed on the upper and lower control arms. Has anyone tried the bolts Inline carries for the ball joints where the top looks like a rivet and the bottom has the nut? If so, how do you get them tight?



Drilled out the original rivets.


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Old July 2nd, 2018, 07:48 AM   #52  
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I used the bolts/rivets.


They have an edge large enough to garb with soft jawed pliers to stop them from turning for torqueing. I used blue locktite.


I wish I had spent the NOS money and bought the upper ball joints as NOS as the repop are not similar. (the top is raised on OEM)


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Old July 2nd, 2018, 09:10 AM   #53  
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Great find! Along for the ride. Keep up the good work! My Twiligjt Blue 442 was just painted. It is an awesome color!
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 12:35 PM   #54  
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to remove the bushings no need to drill first just dent the metal part and spray penetrant in they will knock or press out easily
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 08:54 PM   #55  
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Great find! Along for the ride. Keep up the good work! My Twiligjt Blue 442 was just painted. It is an awesome color!
It's definitely a sweet color combo with the twilight blue paint and light blue interior. With that being said, I'm definitely not looking forward to the 50 shades of blue interior paints / dyes.
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 08:55 PM   #56  
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to remove the bushings no need to drill first just dent the metal part and spray penetrant in they will knock or press out easily
Thanks, I'll give this a try tomorrow. Hoping to get the bushings out this week and the arms over to the blaster.
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Old July 2nd, 2018, 10:23 PM   #57  
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I cleaned up all four crossmember bolts, and three of the four have the same head markings and the fourth has the ‘TR’. Which is correct?


Answered my own question after combing through the AMK catalogs. The correct bolt head marking is 'TR' for the crossmember bolts. Also, interesting to note the PIM reflects the bolts and nuts as being installed with the nut above OR below. My 12/69 W-31 has the nuts on the bottom and this 03/70 W-31 had the nuts on top.
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Old July 11th, 2018, 10:49 AM   #58  
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I had an opportunity to pull the oil pan last night. The engine was pulled in 1979 for a rebuild (and a coat of blue paint), and has just 4,000 miles over the last 39 years. From the original owner, the engine was blowing a bit of smoke so he opted for a rebuild. Despite the bottom of the pan looking a bit beat up, everything appears to be clean. I’m asking this group to take a look at the pictures and let me know if anything jumps out. I’m not sure what was included in the rebuild, outside of replacing the 194 cam with a Lunati cam, and I'm hopeful I won't need to tear this thing down. It looks like the crank has a ‘229’ Julian date stamped on it.





















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Old July 11th, 2018, 11:04 AM   #59  
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Looks clean.....timing chain is a non roller type.

Pistons look like TRWs, stock rods.

If it were me, I would totally disassemble it and look at the clearances, the bearings, and the balance.

At a Minimum: New bearings, rings, oil pump, gaskets. Would probably replace the cam and lifters with a roller type.
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Old July 12th, 2018, 07:27 PM   #60  
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Intake

Dropped off the original W-350 intake manifold, along with a spare intake, to be vapor blasted. I wasn’t as familiar with this approach as say sand blasting or glass beading, but I have to say this turned out awesome! I used a shop called Vapor-Shine located in the Naperville Iron Gate Motor Condos and am very pleased with the results.












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