Magna86

Ok its time to start on some repairs and upgrades on the 71. Now that I am back home on land it was time to get started. First up was to pull the drivers fender so I could pull the door to address the worn hinges and loose door skin. I pulled the fender to find some previous repairs that were sub par. The bottom of fender behind wheel had rotted in past but was repaired with a sheet of metal and epoxy or bondo holding it there. But it looks good from the outside. Where the fender bolts to the bottom of the firewall cowl had alittle rot and looks like a 6yr old cut the metal and tried to weld it in place. I'm guessing the hinges are original with the rust I found under them. Went up to me Gene(64Rocket) this wknd to pickup a posi rear for the car and he welded the door skin for me. (welder not in the garage yet) I knew it could damage the door paint but I think it will be fine just bubbled a bit. I'm going to cleanup the rust and seal it with some primer and spray paint. It will all be hidden. Since there is no major issues I'm not worried about it. When I get to the body way down the line it will be completely stripped so all hidden things can be fixed. Once I get the doors are back on I will put the car on jack stands to start the suspension rebuild/cleanup/upgrade. I can tell you the MAW's are trying to creep in.

IMG_20131219_223653131_zpsbcdexgcw.jpg

Magna86

IMG_20131222_180104270_zpswwaud8fe.jpg
Happy no rust under the battery tray

IMG_20131222_180128345_zpsum6ncplm.jpg
IMG_20131222_180133910_zpsmnl5kcr2.jpg

IMG_20131222_175822504_zpsaj87bfmr.jpg
IMG_20131222_175849949_zps5cblt5nh.jpg

oldspackrat

Chris,
I have some pretty clean lower cowl sections if you need any. I found some seat belts also, give me a call?
Thanks.
Scott

OLDSRI

About ready to crack into my 72 as well.

Good luck with the repairs.

Magna86

So I finally made some progress on the doors. Got the drivers door back on and adjusted with my buddies help. Its almost perfect but the striker bushing is worn so once I replace it, then it should sit flush as the hinges are adjusted all the way. Have to do alittle paint touch up on the paint chips. I have the passenger side all ready to go back on just need a free night. Then its onto jack stands for suspension tear down.

IMG_20140126_143036199_zpsitqbsmhf.jpg

IMG_20140126_143633620_zps4srnkhj3.jpg

IMG_20140126_143208232_HDR_zpszvskxm3l.jpg

Magna86

IMG_20140126_170226718_zpsiuoof7cr.jpg

Home Decor

IMG_20140126_143904092_zpsgikcwonb.jpg

Mr Nick

Nice start!

Question for you, how hard is pulling the fender and then putting it back on properly? I know to mark the number of shims, use chalk to mark panel alignment etc. But is it a two man job putting it back on?
I generally work alone.

Magna86

Its a 2 man job with the bumper on to remove and install. If bumper was off could do it one man. Otherwise you can chip paint during the process. My car only has shims in 2 places where fender bolts by the door. There is a standard shim between fender and core support.

Mr Nick

Got it, thanks for the advice.

Magna86

OK made some progress tonight. I cleaned up the garage and located all my tools from all the previous work and distraction projects I had to do. So tonight I got her up on jack stands and pulled the rear end. Actually came out rear easy with no broken bolts or lines. Are the drums on the rear I pulled original? Ok so the rear springs look newer, shocks were shot, lower CA bushing we perfect but upper CA bushing shot as well as rearend bushings. I looked at my front brakes and it looks like they are perfect and will just get cleaned/reinstalled when I get to the front suspension. Measured my sway bars and I had a 7/8" rear and 1" front so those are getting upgraded. The whole underside of the car is very clean and will get some scrapping and cleaning. Going to drop the gas tank to makesure nothing hidden and that all the rubber lines are good. I love working my on hotrods!

IMG_20140204_213133940_zpsamiixpup.jpg

IMG_20140204_232125223_zpsb2heq6ak.jpg

IMG_20140204_232055247_zpsiaycieru.jpg
IMG_20140204_232106044_zpsvantdioe.jpg

molasses4masses

Looks good!

Magna86

Ok finally made some more progress again. Learned that if I ever come across another Vista posi rear that I need to just use it for parts since the bearing are impossible to find. But I got lucky and found a set compliments of Brian Trick. Now I just need to swap the seals and can bolt the axles back in. Here it is all ready for the axles and some gear oil.

IMG_20140223_152228288_HDR_zpskgmxwjfs.jpg

So while crawling around under the rear I found my excuse to buy a welder and learn to use it. No damage in rear from an accident just a crack where the upper CA cross member meets the frame.

IMG_20140222_170853147_zpss6dz1cbh.jpg
IMG_20140222_170835078_zpsyctmfwye.jpg

Magna86

So I made my way back upfront to the remove the front suspension. Everything came pretty easily. Most of the bushing were on their way out so definitely due for a rebuild. Front shocks were shot and I think the front springs were cut down a bit. So waiting on tax return so I can make a big order for all the parts to put the car back together. Also after I took the front suspension apart I learned this car has been in a hard wreck on the driver front. Frame has been repaired and welded. Everything looks to be straight and the welds good and solid. Gotta love old cars

IMG_20140224_230247374_zpsntpyob1h.jpg

IMG_20140224_230236674_zpsk1x8scdt.jpg

IMG_20140224_230143679_zpsdvwcsti7.jpg

johnnyjaws

do u find it easyer to remove the front clip than work around the fenders next time drill 1/8 holes in the door jams for perfect line up when putting back together

Magna86

I find it a lot easier with fenders/hood removed. I was planning to do suspension so wanted the space to work and clean any hidden rust. Doors were off so need reset anyway after hinge rebuild.

Magna86

Things have been alittle slow in the garage. I got switch to 2nd shift so that has thrown me outta wack with a routine. Funds are alittle tight as well so just been keeping busy. Rearend is reassembled and ready to bolt in minus assembling brake components on it. I have stripped/cleaned and painted all the springs and control arms. I will work on the front spindles next to get them and the backing plates all cleaned up. May have a deal on a 455 ready to drop in so the MAWs could become dangerous and this car may never come outta the garage. If not then I will order the suspension parts to start reassembly. The washer trick to remove front upper control arm bushing works great. Ball joints came out with a few good whacks by the 5lb sledge.

IMG_20140320_141336196_HDR_zpshtzpirgu.jpg
Missing something?

IMG_20140321_203939827_zpsw3wxprbs.jpg

RetroRanger

Nice work magna, I did the same last year, the car rides much better w all new bushings ball joints sway bars and shocks. Your car looks like its in pretty good shape as well

Magna86

Well got the front spindles and brakes all cleaned up and ready for reassembly. I made my parts order on Rockauto so reassembly can begin next wk. I am swapping my clutch fan in place of flex now that the motor mounts were replaced.

IMG_20140328_192657780_zpsszhlyh5s.jpg

IMG_20140328_194927854_zpsnaqvxgaw.jpg

Magna86

OK made some good progress today! Most of my rockauto order showed up yesterday so i got to work today. Front control arms have ball joint and bushings pressed in. I still have to do the upper control arm bushings but want paint the shaft first. Also the 3.08 posi rear is mounted in the car. My new upper and lower control arms look great back there and are all greased. New rear brake cables have been installed. I guessed the right size as there are 2 different lengths for the rear cables. Springs were reused with a paint job and new perch insulators. Finished off with KYB shocks. Rockauto had a mail in rebate on them and the bilsteins weren't in the budget this time. I also cleaned and primed the passenger side front frame to paint tomorrow. Clutch fan was also swapped in. Waiting on rest of parts to come in so I can finish it off in the next week or so.

IMG_20140330_212930453_zpsjrshbsqf.jpg

IMG_20140330_212935861_zpst0skvu1t.jpg


IMG_20140330_154735473_zpsjgjvtawi.jpg

IMG_20140330_180644277_HDR_zpscf6ywl0w.jpg

Magna86

Another update. I learned another reason to use a vista cruiser rear for parts. They use different wheel cylinders than a cutlass that are side specific as the line doesn't connect straight but at an angle. So your $4 cutlass wheel cylinder turns into $40 a piece for a vista rear. On a positive note got my 1in rear sway bar installed. So once I get the wheel cylinders I can button up the rear. Made alot of progress on the front suspension. I installed the front control arms, springs, spindles, brake assm, GC gearbox, center link, idler arm and my 1 1/4 sway bar with links. Only thing left is the shocks and tie rods. Still waiting on my body mounts so maybe next week I can set her back down on wheels to torque all the suspension. But I ran into a problem with the GC gear box as the rag joint I bought doesn't fit though I pulled the part number from a thread.

IMG_20140403_164941551_HDR_zpsqz9cfmks.jpg
IMG_20140403_204516736_zpsfw4ee0tp.jpg

IMG_20140403_220542506_zpsvkagobba.jpg

Boilerz25

Looks like it is coming together nicely. I made the mistake of not keeping the fender and front end shims separated. I figure putting it all back together will be a trial and error process.

Sean

Magna86

I've made alittle progress on the car. Front end is done minus hooking up the gearbox and greasing everything. I made brake lines for the rear axle only to find a bubble in the rear axle hose so I ordered that tonight. Will finish installing the rear brake hardware tomorrow. Tonight I tackled the body mounts and all the bolts came out intact except one. The driver side mount bolt where the frame is boxed literally exploded when I hit it with my impact. All the bushing were compressed and dry rotting. The frame holes were all in good shape as well. When I lifted the drivers side I found this at the exploded mount spot.

IMG_20140410_213405862_zpshdchzd11.jpg
The bottom of the body where the cage nut is supposed to be is rusted out. So tomorrow I will hit the area with undercoating to seal it and find a piece of scrap metal to put up there. I install a solid mount there and moved a bolt in one back to the next location.

IMG_20140410_214347195_zps42elzuud.jpg
Here is what that bushing looked like.

I also replaced my core support mounts and bolts as well
IMG_20140409_211943567_zpstlojrwz7.jpg

She should be back on her wheels early next week!

Magna86

IMG_20140414_113731436_HDR_zpssmtq3tq5.jpg
And we are back on wheels!!!! I hadnt flared a brake line in about 10yrs but I got real good at it again trying to get the rear lines to seal properly. Brakes are all buttoned up and bled. I may have to get a different intermediate e-brake cable as I used all the adjustment and the cable seems alittle loose when not engaged but seems to work fine when engaging the e-brake. The car fired right up after I primed her abit which was nice to hear again. As I went to adjust the fan shroud from the fan hitting it i noticed coolant on the ground so the radiator finally failed. So I started looking at replacements and will probably change to aluminum and paint it black. Current issue I have is the car leans to the passenger side? Sits higher on the driver side. See thread under chassis/suspension/body.

Magna86

Well its been a while since I updated this but life gets in the way. As I said in another thread my radiator decided to give way so I was in need of a new one. Of course this added to the project. I was on the fence between aluminum and another 4 core not to mention budget. Plus add the fact of modifying things to get the aluminum radiator to sit in the correct place and not move. Autozone had a 20% special coupon so I ordered a replacement 4 core Spectre radiator for $170 shipped. The radiator at full price was cheaper at autozone than at Rockauto. The radiator showed up and is a direct fit with not issues and the quality looked good as well.

IMG_20140515_131234832_zpshfb5whv0.jpg
IMG_20140515_131134358_zpsfsnsbjqg.jpg

That being said, I couldn't put a nice shiney radiator in a dirty looking core support so I repainted the top plate area.

IMG_20140515_133851899_zpsvciagx6q.jpg

buzz lightyear

Nice radiator. Would you happen to have the model number to that 4 core spectre radiator??

Thanx, David

Magna86

Ah yes I meant to post it but its the Spectra Premium HD cooling with A/C # CU165. Autozone sells it for $195 and Rockauto was like $40-50 more if I remember correctly.

Now with a new radiator I could finally get rid of the damn flex fan and spacer for the factory 6 blade and HD clutch. Once all bolted back together finally no more fan hitting the shroud.

IMG_20140516_164356229_zpsnnn1lhfn.jpg

Next I worked on my wheel wells which were a mess of scratches and overspray paint. I tried to just strip them with oven cleaner and polish using scrub pads and buff with steel wool but it wasnt looking great so I opted to paint them. The inside had more overspray that the engine bay side and I got most of that off. Also replaced what was left of the CA rubber flaps.

IMG_20140427_120223059_zpsiw6rafti.jpg

IMG_20140516_174447483_zpspiavshbm.jpg

Next up is to go through the wiring mess under the hood while I can reach everything. Then I have to refinsh my grilles and blast/paint my front end hardware so I can begin installing fenders again.

Magna86

So I had to clean up the wiring under the hood. There were quiet a few butt connectors some not even electrical taped. Also the was a rubber coated solid wire run from the horn relay to the battery instead of braided wire. Once I was done cleaning things up and testing everything I re-taped the looms on the harnesses so they looked better. With that done I was able to hang fenders again! My drivers door edge has taken a beating on the paint thanks the door repair and hinge repin. So I was able to get the fenders installed and the wheels wells. Tomorrow I will install the hood but if my roommate sleeps too late I may take her for a drive to get the alignment without it!

IMG_20140523_201052739_zpstzlgjopp.jpg

IMG_20140523_234707204_zpszvrreejh.jpg

IMG_20140524_245037597_zpsjgc55kfx.jpg

After I get the hood back on I have to finish the front grilles, hookup washer fluid system and I'd like to do some weather stripping as well. But I cant wait to try out the 3.08 posi rear tomorrow Once all the bugs are worked out then the 66 can come into the garage for her upgrades.

Magna86

As you saw in the other thread I did end up driving her to go get an alignment without the hood. The car drove great minus an issue with the rear drums locking up on a hard stop. After checking the brakes I realized that I had installed the shoes backwards so I made the correction and test drove again but still had the same result. So today I pulled the drums and roughed up the shoes and drums using 80 grit followed by brake clean incase some how there was brake fluid contamination in there from the original brake bleed during rear install. But before I could get it tested again I checked my torque convertor bolts as I was getting a rattle similar to an exhaust shield rattle. Well I found one slightly loose, so I went to tighten it but something didn't feel right. It felt like it was beginning to strip out, but it didn't snugged up. Well went I went to drive it I smelled something so I got out and and checked to find the trans leaking fluid. WTH? So back in the garage to investigate. I cleaned off the area and began looking for leaks to find it was coming from torque convertor bolt. Great the damn thing cracked but I decided to put the bolt and it was just like I pulled a drain plug. The torque convertor dumped fluid right out of the bolt hole! So apparently the previous builders of this car installed a bolt that was too long while half torquing it and when I torqued it down it punctured the damn convertor! Let me tell you I'm not very happy because now I have to pull the damn trans an replace the convertor. Ugh I'd like to find the people who put this car together and give them a swift kick in the **** for some of the crap I have found on this car. Since no driving was happening I went back to cleaning up my grilles. So I media blasted them to remove the paint then refinished them gloss black. I took the trim, stripped and polished it. Last thing I have to do is get some adhesive to keep the border trim in place since the nubs dont work well after you remove it once. But they came out great and is what the factory should have done. I also refinshed my headlight bezels. I was going to wet sand them but was worried about get the insides even and shiny like the rest of the bezel would so I just stripped them and painted with some chrome paint I had. They came out pretty good for my needs.

IMG_20140524_114617977_zpsjdp6yea7.jpg

IMG_20140524_115848450_zpssfmxsmvz.jpg

IMG_20140524_193141778_zpscovw4ax8.jpg

IMG_20140526_240644212_zps5jdtlhsg.jpg

Magna86

So this weekend I tackled the replacement of the torque converter. I got up early Saturday and went to work since the replacement was supposed to arrive around noon at Autozone. Nothing was easy on this swap. First I couldnt get the transmission lines to break free from trans so I just removed them from the cooler side. Second I couldnt remove the cross member due to the exhaust being in the way so I slid it all the way to the boxed section mid frame. I finally got the torque converter out and went to pickup the new converter. While I was gone the trans slipped off the jack which made it impossible for me to lift up and slid the jack back into place. So a phone call was made to my buddy to come help. Once we lifted the trans tail back over the cross member and positioned the jack again it went pretty smooth. I buttoned her up and went for a test drive. No drops of trans fluid and the transmission worked perfectly. I can notice the upgrade from 2.56 to the 3.08 posi. The posi unit works quite nicely! Today before work I was able to install my grilles. Yesterday I used plastic epoxy to adhere the edge trim to the grilles. I ziptied the trim in place and used the epoxy at each opening for the trim nubs. After letting them sit over night that way the epoxy did its job and held nicely. I think I will cleanup my headlight trim rings possible paint them as well. This is how the factory should have made the S grilles IMO.

IMG_20140531_143354536_zpsr0npxijk.jpg

IMG_20140601_135957852_zps8flyhzjw.jpg

Magna86

Well found some time to get back to the car and to finally fix this rear brake issue. As I mentioned in another thread I discovered this car still had the drum distribution valve on it instead of a proportioning valve. Thanks to a forum member I was able to get a used one pretty cheap. So after finally getting the old valve off and making 2 new brake lines for the new valve I was able to get the system bled. But upon a test drive the rear wheels were still locking up. So today i went and picked up some new rear shoes and figured why not. I installed them and went for a test drive problem fixed!!! I also decided to clean up the wheels abit and make them appear more correct. I bought some GM Blue engine enamel and hit them with some wheel clear coat and think its a pretty good match to my Viking Blue paint. Now I have to adjust my hood abit to get the rear sit more flat.

IMG_20140620_101518392_zps9rue8c4i.jpg

IMG_20140621_180849312_HDR_zpshhin5qgw.jpg
IMG_20140621_180937222_HDR_zps3tsoim6s.jpg

my72olds

What was the rear brakes doin with the old drum dist valve ? Mines that way and I can't get the rear to bleed . I just added my factory disc up front was in hopes to not have to change the drum valve

Magna86

The rear brakes were locking up and I found the old drum distribution valve on process of diagnosis. Turns out the rear shoes were the problem as they had gotta a little brake fluid on them when I was first bleeding the system. Even though they were not soaked in brake fluid and I cleaned/sanded them enough had stayed in them to cause issue. Before this work on the car the rear brakes seem to work fine with old valve but its not correct to have that valve as you need the proportioning valve or the MC with build in metering valve. Installing the prop wasn't too hard just getting old line off and changing the fitting on 2 lines to match was the pain. Is your rear axle rubber flex line still original? I'd replace it as the can swell inside and cause issues. You are getting no fluid out of the rear brakes gravity bleeding and manually pump bleeding?

Jannebill

This is just awesome, I love how you have updated all of us on your progress. I am planning on doing my front end shortly, and this has helped a lot! Thanks!!

Bama10

Nice car man, it's always nice to see someone share the work they are doing by including pics and details.