Ram Air Hood ?

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Old September 13th, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Ram Air Hood ?

I just purchased a ram air hood for my 72 cutlass it was the fiberglass one came from thepartsplace, what do i need to to do to the hood to install the hood pins and latch assembly i already bought the light weight springs just never had this type of set up before on a hood any ideas ?
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Old September 13th, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Do you know what brand it is? Glasstek, VFN, etc? Each one has their own quirks.

For the hood pins, it is a simple install...just make sure you line everything up correctly before you do any drilling. First drill for the pin, then screw on the retainer plate (Bottom side). Push the pin in, then install the roll pin that locks it in.

Mount the latch plates on the core support and check fit cautiously. You may have to shim the plates to bring them up to the hood locks, work slowly and take your time.

Also, if you are still using the factory hood latch you will need to reinforce the latch location of the fiberglass hood if it's not already done.
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Old September 13th, 2012, 09:41 PM
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reinforce the latch location ? how do i do that
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Old September 13th, 2012, 09:44 PM
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If it's not already reinforced with metal, you will need to use sheet metal or an old factory steel hood to reinforce the center latch area. Otherwise you will just eat away the fiberglass when you shut the hood on the latch. I don't know what kind of hood you have or I could give you some more ideas. I have a VFN, we had to cut a slot in the back side of the front / center section and slide the factory steel hood latch location in there. We fiberglassed it in, so it looks like a single piece.
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Old September 13th, 2012, 09:58 PM
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im not sure of the brand but its the one thepartsplace sales and i didnt see a brand i looked also would u know a way to remove the old hood hinge spring being so its under so much pressure
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Old September 14th, 2012, 04:37 AM
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the old hood hinges are not much of a big deal when the hood is open I just used a long screwdriver to pop them off they arent real streched when open so there is not alot of energy stored in them

I have a PP hood and over the winter I am going to rework their poor hinge mounts...on mine they glassed in 2 stacked nuts (8ttl) where the hinges mount. I plan to weld nuts to some plate steel and slide it into the hood channel then glass it....Ive already pulled 2 nuts thru the hood
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Old September 14th, 2012, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
the old hood hinges are not much of a big deal when the hood is open I just used a long screwdriver to pop them off they arent real streched when open so there is not alot of energy stored in them

I have a PP hood and over the winter I am going to rework their poor hinge mounts...on mine they glassed in 2 stacked nuts (8ttl) where the hinges mount. I plan to weld nuts to some plate steel and slide it into the hood channel then glass it....Ive already pulled 2 nuts thru the hood
Be careful you dont want to pull your NUTS It hurts
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Old August 31st, 2014, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
the old hood hinges are not much of a big deal when the hood is open I just used a long screwdriver to pop them off they arent real streched when open so there is not alot of energy stored in them

I have a PP hood and over the winter I am going to rework their poor hinge mounts...on mine they glassed in 2 stacked nuts (8ttl) where the hinges mount. I plan to weld nuts to some plate steel and slide it into the hood channel then glass it....Ive already pulled 2 nuts thru the hood
I've got a nut pulled thru. Got any tips on how to do the steel plate thing.
How did it work for you?

George
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Old August 31st, 2014, 05:24 PM
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Hey George

I dremeled a hole in the cowl end of the fiber channel where the nuts where. I slid a piece of long metal flat stock w nuts welded to the backside into the channel to replace original nut set up. I attached the flat stock to the inside of the channel with bondoglass( it doesn't have to be strong just keep the flat stock from moving if the hood is removed). Then I used the bondoglass to close up the hole I dremeled to get the flat stock and nuts in there. I haven't remounted the hood yet but I don't see any issues w that. The original set w nuts glassed in is rediculous. IMHO

Dean
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Old August 31st, 2014, 05:58 PM
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heres how i did mine. I cut the latch section out of a metal hood, put it over the same area on the fiberglass hood to mark out what needed to be cut out, cut out the nessesary areas, than i used professional panel adhesive and a few rivets to keep it in place until that dried. Its solid as a rock. I just use the main latch and ghe pins but you could also use the safety latch if you wanted. Hope this helps. Brandon

image_zpsd540ee4e.jpg

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Old August 31st, 2014, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
Hey George

I dremeled a hole in the cowl end of the fiber channel where the nuts where. I slid a piece of long metal flat stock w nuts welded to the backside into the channel to replace original nut set up. I attached the flat stock to the inside of the channel with bondoglass( it doesn't have to be strong just keep the flat stock from moving if the hood is removed). Then I used the bondoglass to close up the hole I dremeled to get the flat stock and nuts in there. I haven't remounted the hood yet but I don't see any issues w that. The original set w nuts glassed in is rediculous. IMHO

Dean
Dean,

Thanks for confirming what I had in mind.
I have a piece of 1/4"thick aluminum 3/4" wide and 7" long.
I tapped a hole in place of the nut you welded to the steel.
Regular epoxy ok to glue the metal in?

I'l have at it tomorrow.

Thx,

George
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Old September 1st, 2014, 05:56 AM
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Epoxy should be fine George, good luck
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Old September 1st, 2014, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
Epoxy should be fine George, good luck
Thanks Dean,

I think I'll do the other side as well. It looks like it's on the same path.
Stupid design.

George
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