Dapapadon

So my 67 CS project has stalled out a few time. And right now I'm out of work. But I figure it's time to get back on it. Plus I'm getting bored. I figure if I start a build thread it might keep me motivated. A little history. I had a different 67 that I'd put a used motor in. Had it running so I could take it to the community college to do bodywork. That car needed a lot of work. I had replaced the outside peice that makes the bottom edge of the windsheild opening. But nearly 2" of the dash was gone. Plus I had large holes around the rear window. I found this car on craigslist with a blown motor. Ended up buying it and putting my used motor in it. Here it is shortly after I got it:
67Cut1.jpg

Wow, didn't realize I'd had it 3 years. Anyway, to get started I spent a lot of time this week cleaning out the garage so I could get the 67 in. And... it's in:
67Garage3.jpg



I need to get the under dash wiring harness replaced so I can move the car around. And take it to the community college for body work. But I want to get started on the ceiling too. I searched but can't find what anyone has ended up doing about this. The headliner looked good, but I had to remove it and the insulation to hammer & dolly some dents on the sides of the roof. (Looked like someone stood on it at some time.) I plan to slide some metal between the insulation and the roof metal then trim it even with a utility knife. Then clean & prep the metal before hitting it with POR15. And leave the insulation between the roof and braces. So any suggestion on what to use for replacement insulation? I also plan to take the headliner bows down one at a time. Clean and paint each then put it back where it goes so I don't get them mixed up.
Ceiling1.jpg
Ceiling3.jpg

My plan is for a clean driver. Wish I had the space to do a frame off. But funds are short right now. So I'll stick with the plan for a driver.

Don

2blu442

At least you CAN get it in the garage! I hope this wet spring comes to an end soon. It will be much more fun working in the driveway if its sunny and dry. John

Ranzan

Don with the surface rust on the roof wire wheel it and por15 and its done
messy so wear a mask looks the same as mine did

patmills

Don I did pretty much what Wes just recommended but I used a product called Rust Mort. Also I did not replace the insulation but just had a new headliner installed.

Pat

Dapapadon

Yeah, I think the car was happy to be in the garage last night with the rain we had. I know I was/am!

When I went to the paint shop I told the guy what I was doing and asked if they had anything cheaper than POR15. I came home with a quart of Zero-Rust. I'd never heard of it, but he recommended it & it was $20 cheaper. Pat, I'm thinking I'll go without the insulation too. Not sure yet. I think just having paint on the metal will stop the rust. Maybe the insulation holds the moisture against the metal too long?

I made a run to Home Depot for tape & wire wheels. And got a start on it. Wes, you're right, I read your post after I tried it. I should have grabbed dust masks, man what a dusty, rusty mess! Rather than go back I used my paint respirator to get started. Here how the first quarter section looks so far. I didn't have to trim the insulation, the wire wheel took care of what was sticking out!
Ceiling21.jpg

Since I'm spending time inside the car and I've got to replace the under dash harness anyway I think the dash needs to come out. The lower dash needs painted, the dash panel needs detailed and it will make the wiring harness easier. I know the upper area by the windshield is flat black(I think GM called it anti-glare) and the lower dash is semi-gloss black. I've never noticed before but I see the transition now. So what did you guys do? Flat and semi-gloss or just all one finish? Here's a shot of each side.
This side you can see it.
DashLowerRight1.jpg

The drivers side photo didn't show it as well. You can just see it at the top.
DashLowerLeft.jpg

Thanks for the feedback and help. I'm going to have a lot of questions. And I think it was OLDSmobility that talked about using a wire wheel on a disc grinder. I picked up a cup brush for mine and it worked great!

Don

442_Mustang

Also... Naval jelly will remove the rust if you work it with a scuff pad.

Dapapadon

Thanks for the tip. I've got it cleaned up to the back window and about half of the "C" pillar. Cleaned it with some prep solvent and have one coat of paint on about half of it.

Since I'm going to work on the dash I figure the heater box should come out. I ordered a heater core at Autozone. Price was about the same as RA & I get my rewards points. I needed to order a heater box seal kit. Just not sure where yet. I also ordered a glove box insert from Tamraz.

Don

Dapapadon

I've got 1 coat of paint on all the ceiling and two coats on the back half. The Zero-Rust seems like it's fine for this area. Other places I'll use POR15. Here's a shot of the back half:
Ceiling4.jpg

I pulled the back window so I can get to all of the "C" pillar area. I'm leaving the rear seat in til I get the ceiling done so I have a place to set. So with the back window out I cleaned the channel out. And did a little wire brushing on the pass. side. Luckily no rust through in the channel. But the lower part will need some major cleaning and de-rusting. Here's several shots, driver side first:
RearWindow1.jpg
RearWindow2.jpg
RearWindow3.jpg

And the pass. side:
RearWindow7.jpg
RearWindow5.jpg
RearWindow6.jpg

There is some rust through on the drive side of the outside package tray area. The pass. side is rusted, but no holes.
Packagetrayleft.jpg
Packagetrayright.jpg

I picked up the heater core at Autozone yesterday. And Tamraz emailed that the glove box liner shipped today. Still needed to order a heater box seal kit. I'll paint the front half of the ceiling this evening. Once I paint there's no more working in the garage that day. Too much paint odor.

Don