Oldsmobile problems
Oldsmobile problems
I bought a 1980 Oldsmobile with a 350 4brl carb and took it to the machine shop to get new parts engine and block resurfaced and piston holes boared so basically a new motor but after I received it I put it in my car and after I turned it on it started shooting oil out the car like a crazy amount and was wondering what the problem could be please help!!!!
For starters - where is the oil shooting out from like crazy - exhaust, valve covers, head gaskets, intake manifold gasket, block, rear main seal, timing chain cover, side of the engine, back of the engine, oil filter adapter housing?
Oil will not shoot out of the carburetor. That is physically impossible.
I would recommend you verify the oil pressure sending unit is screwed into the port on the shelf behind the water pump on the front drivers side. That’s really the only place where oil can shoot out.
I would recommend you verify the oil pressure sending unit is screwed into the port on the shelf behind the water pump on the front drivers side. That’s really the only place where oil can shoot out.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Djh...zdg#Fort_Wayne
I used break in oil since I just got it back from the machine shop but it’s shooting it out through the carb
I used break in oil since I just got it back from the machine shop but it’s shooting it out through the carb
Last edited by Brian12; May 22, 2021 at 08:48 PM.
Are you sure it isn"t coming out just in front as said? Do you have an oil pressure gauge installed? It could be a crack in the oil sender or it was missed on the install. Unless there is a big hole from the valley all the way through the intake manifold. Oil only flows through the galleries and comes back through the drain holes. This isn't a 2 stroke, oil and gas should not mix.
^^x2^^
I agree with all that has been said. No way you could get a stream like that through a carb. Disconnect power to the distributor and have somebody crank the engine over while you watch under the hood in front of the carb. It will not shoot as high as your video but you should be able to see where the oil is coming from.
I I’m not a mechanic I just like to work on my cars in my garage but I was the only one working on the car and thought it came out the carb turns out it came out the oil pressure sender cuz I forgot to put it back in after I took it off but should tdc be at 0 degrees because the engine turns over but it stalls when I let go of the gas or would that be a fuel problem but it back fires so I’m assuming the timing is off
Last edited by Brian12; May 23, 2021 at 04:33 PM.
You’re trending in the right direction. You should determine your timing mark (0) zero degrees is aligned when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) on the power stroke. This is the position in which you will install/insert your distributor with the #1 spark plug location on the distributor cap pointing to the #1 cylinder. So, you need to establish (1) you’re at TDC (2) timing mark points to zero degrees (0) and (3) distributor #1 plug wire points to #1 cylinder. After this is established you can set dwell, timing and vacuum (air/fuel mixture).
You’re trending in the right direction. You should determine your timing mark (0) zero degrees is aligned when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) on the power stroke. This is the position in which you will install/insert your distributor with the #1 spark plug location on the distributor cap pointing to the #1 cylinder. So, you need to establish (1) you’re at TDC (2) timing mark points to zero degrees (0) and (3) distributor #1 plug wire points to #1 cylinder. After this is established you can set dwell, timing and vacuum (air/fuel mixture).
Last edited by Brian12; May 23, 2021 at 06:33 PM.
Napkin method works. If you want to find the true TDC alignment with your harmonic balancer & timing mark try this. I'm mentioning this in relation to ensuring your distributor is inserted/installed in the correct position.
Make all marks with a fine point marker of some type, or a scribe or whatever, something which you can see easily:
Find the point at which the napkin shoots out #1 cylinder
Mark the harmonic balancer at the pointer where the napkin shot out
Replace the napkin
Gently rotate the engine the other way until the napkin shoots out again
Mark the harmonic balancer at the pointer where the napkin shot out.
Now mark the harmonic balancer directly in the middle of those two marks - that is your TDC.
That is the point where you install the distributor and as you stated w/ the rotor facing #1 cylinder. Hook up your wires in the correct order and move forward with a tune-up. Should be good to go.
I was in the middle of watching a movie, which I'm going to return to doing, so others can chime in for assistance as I'm certain they will. You got this.
Make all marks with a fine point marker of some type, or a scribe or whatever, something which you can see easily:
Find the point at which the napkin shoots out #1 cylinder
Mark the harmonic balancer at the pointer where the napkin shot out
Replace the napkin
Gently rotate the engine the other way until the napkin shoots out again
Mark the harmonic balancer at the pointer where the napkin shot out.
Now mark the harmonic balancer directly in the middle of those two marks - that is your TDC.
That is the point where you install the distributor and as you stated w/ the rotor facing #1 cylinder. Hook up your wires in the correct order and move forward with a tune-up. Should be good to go.
I was in the middle of watching a movie, which I'm going to return to doing, so others can chime in for assistance as I'm certain they will. You got this.
Hopefully you have a 1980 Chassis Service Manual (CSM) if not, get one - it is your bible. Get an OEM original. They're available used on the web for various prices, shop around - I've seen them as low as $9.99 (maybe lower) and higher. It's your bible which will pay for itself in many years to come.
OEM 1980 Olds Oldsmobile ALL MODELS Service Shop Repair Manual Factory
OEM 1980 Olds Oldsmobile ALL MODELS Service Shop Repair Manual Factory
Advance the distributor, push towards the fire wall till it stays running, 0 degrees is no where near enough. Was it a stock part rebuild or was a bigger cam and flat top pistons used? If cast replacement pistons were used, you compression will be very low, it will want a lot of timing.
I don’t have a service manual but I’m getting one here soon and I adjusted the timing made sure the firing order is correct but still the same thing is happening my exhaust pipes aren’t on and when you see a flame come out the headers that means the timing is off too right? Because it’s still doing the same thing where it spits gas out the carb I think the distributor isn’t in the right place I’m gonna have to do some more research on how to properly drop in the distributor I’ll give it another try tomorrow before work do you have any other tips I really appreciate the help unless I dropped in the distributor when it was on its exhaust stroke
Advance the distributor, push towards the fire wall till it stays running, 0 degrees is no where near enough. Was it a stock part rebuild or was a bigger cam and flat top pistons used? If cast replacement pistons were used, you compression will be very low, it will want a lot of timing.
Last edited by Brian12; May 23, 2021 at 08:41 PM.
You need at least 20 degrees base timing, it may want even more being 7 to 1 compression. Did you use that Edelbrock carb before? Are you using the adapter plate needed with that carb? If not you will have a big vacuum leak. Get the exhaust on it before going further. It will shoot flames out manifolds without exhaust on.
So I got my buddy in there to help me out who knows a little more about older cars and he said I was on the exhaust stroke I told him no way and he ovened the valve cover to make sure it was on the right stroke and set it to tdc and it started right up but now whenever I put it into gear the engine will stall and I’m really hoping it’s not the torque converter because when the engine was out I was thinking about replacing it because the transmissions from a 79 olds but I was like nah it’s probably good any Ideas?
Last edited by Brian12; Jun 12, 2021 at 12:11 PM.
Check your slow idle speed first.
If that checks out check all the transmission electrical connections. If it's a lockup torque converter the solenoid may be stuck in lockup which will cause stalling in gear. Or the converter lockup solenoid may be bad. Can usually fix that by dropping the pan and not have to pull the transmission.
Good luck. And hopefully you're learning skills as you go.
If that checks out check all the transmission electrical connections. If it's a lockup torque converter the solenoid may be stuck in lockup which will cause stalling in gear. Or the converter lockup solenoid may be bad. Can usually fix that by dropping the pan and not have to pull the transmission.
Good luck. And hopefully you're learning skills as you go.
Check your slow idle speed first.
If that checks out check all the transmission electrical connections. If it's a lockup torque converter the solenoid may be stuck in lockup which will cause stalling in gear. Or the converter lockup solenoid may be bad. Can usually fix that by dropping the pan and not have to pull the transmission.
Good luck. And hopefully you're learning skills as you go.
If that checks out check all the transmission electrical connections. If it's a lockup torque converter the solenoid may be stuck in lockup which will cause stalling in gear. Or the converter lockup solenoid may be bad. Can usually fix that by dropping the pan and not have to pull the transmission.
Good luck. And hopefully you're learning skills as you go.
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