Walk around video

 

A little more work on the car today, removed drivers door window and all the other stuff out

Most of the rust is from Vinyl top being on this car, around the windows, and where side quarter panel chrome was. I'm sure the trunk pan and front pans are rusty from water leaking from rust holes above.
Also been spraying body mounts with wd-40 :-)

Windshield removed today didn't break it


Rear Glass removed Today Didn't Break it
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Rust in strange place, gonna blame it on the Vinyl top it had and being a Florida car
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Here's what it means:
ST-72: 1972 model year
3 - Oldsmobile Division of GM
36 - Model: Cutlass
87 - Body Style: 2 door hardtop sports coupe (also referred to as Holiday coupe or Cutlass S)
R - Arlington TX Fisher Body Works
14461 - Body number assigned by Arlington FBW
TR 947 - White Naugahyde interior
A52 - Split bench seat
PNT 11 B - Lower body color Cameo White/Black vinyl roof
12D - Time build code at FBW: 4th week of December 1971
489 - Fisher production reference number

 

Cool ! I knew of some of the codes back in the day but couldn't remember them. Thanks
Body is going back to white, but not sure if it will be Cameo white, No Vinyl top ! Interior will be black, buckets . The bench seat that was in there was comfy !

 

There was also the option of two tone paints if vinyl is not going back on. That used the same moldings to separate color bands between top and bottom colors. All white upper/lower will also look exceptional.

Yes, I still have the A52 split bench in my car and agree with you about the comfort. Wish Olds had made the split bench with armrest (A65) the standard seat though on the Sports model.

 

I have thought about putting vinyl top back on, I found the moldings in a old junk yard just could leave them there. But not going to do the top now. I don't want all the rust again and worried about the moldings leaking into the trunk again and top holding water
I agree and my wifey agrees it will look exceptional all white.

I did a 70 Nova SS for a friend has built 350, 4spd and 4:11 gears it's all white with grey metallic stripes, he lets me drive it when ever I want, because he doesn't drive it. And wifey just loves to ride in it and loves that it's all White, she says it's Classy !

I have thought about going back red (Red Rocket) or maybe orange (My lawyer buddy has a orange one) or yellow ? So i asked the wife her opinion she said white like the nova. Cool White it is !

I agree with the split bench seat should have an arm rest

 

Good looking project. Looks like you are getting after it. My light hood springs from the PartsPlace are too light to hold the hood up without a prop Rod. I will be curious to know how the mediums work out for you. Love the b3 RR pics. I had a 73 B3 Blue Charger with a 440.

 

White is better since it's obvious the wife has a say. Wait till you sell before you go to 'resale red'. Seems like that's a popular color to draw attention + it just looks great on that body style.

 

Yes last couple days been right at it, all glass is removed from the body and doors.
I think dash and wiring is next then the body comes off. Then onto the rotisserie. Gotta go to Carlisle next weekend and get some parts.

Yeah I haven't ordered any springs yet, I need to !

Thanks we did both of them before it got cold out the one leave next month for Texas. Chargers are sweet ! I love Mopars but love my cutlass more

 

Yeah for sure ! The right Red is nice but it's still more expensive at auto paint store .
Low budget restore here
I really didn't want to pull body off frame, but it will be easy to work on it
My body shop buddy said he has a rotisserie i can use

 

I wanted to see what was hinding under all the primer and old bondo, so I broke out the 6" black wheel and went to striping, gonna have to buy some sheet metal one spot is really Bad !
The roof/Quarter seam had some yellow soft/funky smelling stuff in it
Blew some primer over bare steel and slapped the nasty steel wheels on
Oh the passenger side floor I removed the fiberglass and look what I found

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Yikes, floor pan time. One side only or have you checked the other yet? I'm betting you can fix the sail panel with a patch, same with the lower quarter. How are the drop downs and inner liners?

 

Yeah for sure ! The other side isn't that bad just pin holes, sail panel at bottom of window is worse, lower quarter isn't to bad, drop downs and inners are good.

This is the bad spot
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At least with the window and interior trim out you have access. Could be a lot worse - it doesn't look like it extends to the rear deck shelf.

 

So should I get a full trunk pan or a 3 piece pan ?

 

Your call, you're there and can check the metal better than me trying to be clairvoyant. Only thing I'd consider is what's going to be easier in the long run for cutting/welding in. You said you were a retired bodyman so you have tons more experience making that decision that I would.

 

I do need the whole floor, just not sure if one piece will go in easy from top, looks like it will fit through trunk opening just not sure

 

If in doubt, I'd suggest going with 3 pieces and then tack weld in as you remove, dry fit and replace. 3 pieces may also be easier to ship than oversize whole floor pan.

 

I have a friend that has a 3 piece, said didn't think he was using it, he said would sell it to me.
I'm headed to spring Carlisle tomorrow hoping to find a one piece. I guess I will do some measuring tomorrow before I leave

 

So I went to Carlisle Friday night spent the night in my Truck, by 8am I had trunk floor and my front floor pans. Front pans are AMD nice sheet metal ! bigger than I figured they would be, bonus !
The trunk floor is little short on sides (not AMD )
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Also bought body mounts, and rad mounts from Fusiks

 

Well car is on hold for little while, my garage wall is falling in and has to be repaired. It's going to eat up $$ for cutlass :-(

 

This feels like the first time I sat down in months. (I'm actually taking a dump) been super busy with work pulling several all nighters along the way. At least my motor is getting built , I just need to find the time to get my car ready in time for the new bouncing baby big block boy.
Hey Allan talk to me about that 200 trans. Currently got the 455 with the 350 trans which I heard is not a great fit. Was thinking about getting the TH400. I would love a shift kit or complete clutch pedal job on my Cutlass if it's doable.

 

The 200 4R is a direct bolt up to the 350 or 455. You can put a shift kit in it if you want. Note: the 200 4R needs to have a TV (throttle valve) cable to adjust the shift points. If it's not set up right from the start you can destroy the transmission is very short order.

The TH350 you have is the same length as the 200 4R so it means you wouldn't have to change your driveshaft, but you would need to change the e brake cable and one of the hooks to the same length as TH400, plus you'd have to move the transmission crossmember back. 200 4R's are easy and cheap to get from the boneyard too.

BTW, a TH350 trans overbuilt will handle anything a stock 455 can throw at it.

 

If by overbuilt you mean I got the ATeam from GM in 72 to build mine cause pretty sure it's all stock. What is the major diff in the 3 other than price. Weight ? If it's your car which do u prefer ? Cause I'm only doing this once This one is mine & will be keeping it. Another reason for the stick. If I just keep the TH350 what all would need to be done for the shift kit & the rebuilt 455 ? I know zero about transmissions except installation.

 

My car came from the factory as a 350/350.
Most 455's came from the factory as 455/400. The other options for the 350 and 455 were to have a 4 speed SMT.

A 'built' 350 trans means it's been put together to handle higher torque and HP. Most built 350's can handle up to 550 - 600 HP.

A TH400 is designed to handle the higher torque of the 455.

Since I put a set of 3.42:1 gears in my car, I'm going to run it a bit and see how the rpms go. Around town I won't see anything major different. But at highway speeds it will likely be pushing 3000+ rpm. It shouldn't hurt the engine at all, just the gas mileage. I'm seriously watching the boneyard for cars that I can pull a 200 4R from and use in my car.

Shift kit install for a TH350 is not terribly hard - just follow the manufacturers instructions. Even easier if you have the trans out of the car as you have to remove and reinstall 6 check *****. While the trans is out you should also replace the modulator, front and rear seals. If you've ever rebuilt brake calipers or differentials, doing the seals is like replacing the power piston seal or the yoke seal.

As far as the stick, I assume you're talking about a manual trans? You can't modify the TH350 to be a stick - you need a different trans for that.

 

Allan you know your stuff, the only thing I knew was my 350 can't be modified for a manual stick pretty much read chineseI won't be doing any of the trans work. I can build a house. but will leave the trans to the experts. My Cutlass was originally a basic 350/350 2 barrel, single exhaust w/air. The PO put in the 455 bored the heads, racing cam, 3" dual exhaust, took out all AC stuff, installed a 3400 stall, predator 1000 gas guzzling carb & ran 4:10s for gears. Car was most likely launching and flying down a 1/4 mile. Now I'm turning it into a Sunday driver for myself. I'm toning down the motor, carb. intake, stall, gears.And would like to make it nice comfortably fun to drive. Been driving trucks for 35yrs I'm due. As soon as I get a handle on the motor build and know what it will do that might make the trans decision for me. My brother is building the motor I gave him 3K he said he knows what I want so well see. I'm supposed to take my trans to get tuned up but now might wait.

 

Sorry been off here for awhile, had a job change, I'm now working for a Chevrolet dealer as a service advisor. We have had a local 72 442 come in couple times it's a 50/50 car 50 foot or 50 mph
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I did some more work on the car this weekend. Body is ready to come off the frame, it's a empty shell now. Just waiting for my garage wall to be repaired so I can put body on a rolling dolly. While I'm waiting, going to get floor pans ready to cut out.

 

So I did some grinding and found some rust hidden under bondo, I never had rear window out when I pained the car years ago. Any body know where or if they make this part ?

 

Not a reproduced part. You need either a donor car or a good fabricator.

 

I found this on here not sure if it's what I need https://www.shermanparts.com/ecat/ba...lass&year=1972
795-72A DECK FILLER PNL 70-72 CUTLASS $97.50$97.50<div id="divCCC795-72">

 

Had a look at that pic and it's the rear filler for the 70-72 Cutlass Supreme. It goes between the deck lid and the rear window, but I can't see that it has the rolled over section you need. Check with:
Thomas Johnson (442Oldsredberet). He's setting up shop in LA and has some new arrivals.
Eric Jensen (jensenracing77) in Brazil Indiana
Scott Winn (oldspackrat) in Indianapolis Indiana

One of them will surely have something they can cut out and work with you on.

 

Yeah picture isn't very good going to give them a call and ask.
I might just fab the part myself.
Thanks for the info

 

little cutting today

 

little more work

 

Sorry this is off topic of my car but I Hit little bump in the road last week, My brother called and said he was selling our dads '58 Chevy sedan delivery, this car has been in family since 1977 and when my dad passed my brother ended up with it, for the last 19 years he has sold anything that was worth money off of it. Only thing he has done to it was put a ready to go frame under it. I told him I had first chance at it, well it's sitting in my friends garage now

 

I've had some issues with my laptop haven't been on in while, I've Done few more patches on cutlass I will post pictures later

 

Glad to know your still at it.

 

4 months without a laptop or puter? I think I'd go nuts...

BTW, nice looking delivery!