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Started taking the front suspension apart today, and remembered a short cut for removing front shocks, if you’re not going to reuse them. Instead of using the shock tool on the top stud to keep it from spinning, and loosening the nut, take a long extension with a 9/16” socket, to fit the nut, put it on the nut, and rock the extension back and forth until the stud breaks off....done!
Wow, that is truly a hole! I did notice on the right side of mine, that there is a tire wear spot about the size of your hole, in the same place. Probably due to worn old springs/suspension.
Took the battery out to look at the inside. Found more rot on the battery tray, and underneath. Decided on taking the wheel well out to repair the badly rusted areas. The metal is pretty thin.
Love the car !!! if I were to have a Cutlass/442 66-67 would be my choice ! my sister had a friend with a 66 442 he would run at US-30 dragstrip
just across the Illinois, Indiana border when he would run he had signs for the side that read COLOR ME GONE I loved that car !!
also being a disappointed Bears fan I want to know about the Bears banner? I watched the Bears go down in a dismal defeat again to the Packers I would like to live long enough to see the Bears beat the Packers twice in one season !! I hate Aaron Rodgers but I sure as hell wish he was our quarterback !!
being a disappointed Bears fan I want to know about the Bears banner? I watched the Bears go down in a dismal defeat again to the Packers I would like to live long enough to see the Bears beat the Packers twice in one season !! I hate Aaron Rodgers but I sure as hell wish he was our quarterback !![/QUOTE]
I feel your pain. I’m a lifelong Bears fan, lived in the Chicago area up until 2016, then moved just over the Illinois/Wisconsin border. Had season tickets for about 25 years, just gave them up last winter, still proudly flying my Bears flag out in front though.
I am loving your car and your work on it. 67. Summer of love Baby. Four speed too. Love the colors etc. Cool to learn about the rear wheel clearance. Who knew. Keep those pics coming. Great job.
Last edited by no1oldsfan; Jan 15, 2021 at 08:34 PM.
Finished the front end today, and had to take it for a ride. I like the new stance a lot. Very happy with the way it looks now. Before any suspension/spring work. After rear suspension/spring work, right side. After front and rear suspension work, right side. After rear suspension/spring work, left side. After front and rear suspension/spring work, left side.
I didn’t go for a long ride, just stayed in the neighborhood. It did feel tighter though. It was nice to drive it again. Really enjoy the four speed!
There you go, rubbing in the fact you've got a 4-speed . . . LoL! I'm sure it was nice just to get it on the road again after all that nice work you've done on it. I sure hope we can all get vaccinated and get the Covid crap behind us so we can get our cars out to more shows and cruise-ins this coming summer. Good luck with the rest of the resto.
Took the engine and trans out on Thursday, with the help of a friend. The garage is finally back in order today. We took the trans out first, (looked pretty easy). Had to fight with it awhile because it was stuck really good in the bell housing. PB blaster and side to side movement finally broke it loose. It is the first manual transmission that I have dropped. So far I’ve noticed that the water pump is after market, the right side exhaust manifold is cracked at the front bolt ear, and there’s a Dorman freeze plug in the back of the engine. I’m guessing that either the engine or transmission have been out before. Thinking about getting some new exhaust manifolds from OPG, they’re on sale for $339 shipped.
The plan is to replace the oil pan gasket, along with the front and rear main seals, lifters, rockers, push rods, possibly the cam. Thinking about putting a W30 cam in, and I would welcome any thoughts on that, or anything else really. From what I’ve read on the forum, a W30 cam will work with power brakes, or vice versa. I’ve always liked a lumpy sounding idle. Also going to replace the water pump, possibly the timing set, if it’s original, reseal the trans, clean and paint the engine and engine compartment. Replace the motor and transmission mounts. The z bar needs some help as well.
Well the timing set is not original and as you say other things as well so the engine has had work on it in the past. There are no locking tabs on the exhaust manifold bolts. The dorman core plug appear to be the one at the back of the cam. There is no water there so it would not generally fail, perhaps the engine has been rebuilt in the past... I got my repro exhaust manifolds from Thornton. Like you I found one broken and the other badly pitted. Since no gasket is used on them the mating surface must be true, work for a machine shop so new manifolds was my choice. If you swap the cam you should hold off on buying pushrods until you can see what length pushrods you need.
In your experience, how is the drive ability of a w30 cam? I believe I have a wide ratio muncie, and a 3:55 rear end. Do valve springs need to be changed as well?
In your experience, how is the drive ability of a w30 cam? I believe I have a wide ratio muncie, and a 3:55 rear end. Do valve springs need to be changed as well?
I am just a novice, but if you're thinking of running a true w30 specs cam that went into the 4-speed cars, you will not create enough vacuum to operate power accessories like AC or power front disc brakes without adding a vacuum collection system. Note that the w30 cams that went into the 4-speed cars were more aggressive than the w30 cams in the automatics.
I do not have the specs for either the w30 automatic cam or the 4-speed cam readily available, but I can tell you that at one time I did a spec comparison of the aftermarket cam that went into the rebuild of my 67 400ci, and it fell in between the w30 automatic cam and and the w30 4-speed cam as far as aggressiveness. A vacuum collector was added to my car in order to store enough vacuum to operate the power front discs. Here are the specs for my cam:
- advertised intake duration 300 / advertised exhaust duration 310 - 224 degrees intake duration @ .050 / 234 degrees exhaust duration @ .050
- .496 intake lift / .520 exhaust lift - 112 degrees lobe separation
Here is a pic of my engine bay, note the vacuum collector near the driver side fender.
Last edited by Dream67Olds442; Jan 31, 2021 at 01:45 PM.
The w30 cam mentioned I think, would be the 67 W30 cam that was the w31 cam in 1968. I would say you would ideally want a 355 or steeper gear out back for this cam. If your car has AC I doubt the 355 rear would be original to your 4spd car. The 355 was said to be the standard gear for 4spd 67 442's that were stick but non AC. Its always a good idea to upgrade to stiffer valve springs with a new higher performance cam. My red car had a 390 rear 4spd and the 67 W30 cam, had no issues with drivability.
I am just a novice, but if you're thinking of running a true w30 specs cam that went into the 4-speed cars, you will not create enough vacuum to operate power accessories like AC or power front disc brakes without adding a vacuum collection system. Note that the w30 cams that went into the 4-speed cars were more aggressive than the w30 cams in the automatics.
I do not have the specs for either the w30 automatic cam or the 4-speed cam readily available, but I can tell you that at one time I did a spec comparison of the aftermarket cam that went into the rebuild of my 67 400ci, and it fell in between the w30 automatic cam and and the w30 4-speed cam as far as aggressiveness. A vacuum collector was added to my car in order to store enough vacuum to operate the power front discs. Here are the specs for my cam:
- advertised intake duration 300 / advertised exhaust duration 310 - 224 degrees intake duration @ .050 / 234 degrees exhaust duration @ .050
- .496 intake lift / .520 exhaust lift - 122 degrees lobe separation
Here is a pic of my engine bay, note the vacuum collector near the driver side fender.
122* lobe separation seems high. Do you mean 112* ? The other specs on your cam looks a lot like the 00083 Lunati Voodoo cam in my '70 W-30.
122* lobe separation seems high. Do you mean 112* ? The other specs on your cam looks a lot like the 00083 Lunati Voodoo cam in my '70 W-30.
w30brad - You're correct, good eye, it is 112, a typo on my part. I just went in and corrected it, thanks. Mine came from Mondello, JM-20-22. Haven't had any issues, despite the bad reviews of service on Mondello in Pasa Robles.
Nice car 6D7 ! She sits real nice now - love the stance.
I see you're running glass packs without extensions - I bet it sounds amazing. A '69 442 that I owned a long time ago was set up that way (with the stock W and Z manifolds). That car sounded so good.
