now im waiting on this guy to bring his engine hoist for me then im off to break n fuel line removal.lets see how much i get done this weekend

 

Well, whattaya know? Hockey pucks with metal inserts. Looks like they've seen better days.

 

today was an alright day i got a good bit of stuff done remove starter drop the drive shaft removed stall converter cover and took off the cross bar.I also got all the bolts that hold the engine and trans together now im smiling to myself like YES i getting it done.Then i go to pull the trans off and BAM i hit a wall trans aint moving not an inch yea the whole engine and frame moving but not the trans i sat for almost an hour thinking and wondering y this thing aint moving.I did evrything let the jack down all the way nothing i tried lifting from da end were D-shaft goes in nothing.that was the last thing i tried before calling it a night at 10:30.as soon as my cumputer stop acting stupid i will upload the pics from today which is for saturday

 

Are we talking about the area behind the dash vents that always rots out like mine is ? If so tsk tsk tsk Allan ... I hope you know I'm just messing around . I don't know crap compared to a lot of you guys , but I learned tons since I've joined this site , and I'm thankful as heck for that . I really do wish you could of saved those parts of the car though . It would of been a money maker for you if anything .

 

Unless of course money is not an object , and you're doing it for fun along with the sense of accomplishment , and for the love of Oldsmobiles , and a big garage , and a lot of tools , and a lot of patients .... etc .... etc .

 

 

 

wow this was my first time removing an engine and i did it by myself.I'm not saying i did'nt have some problems like when i lowerd the jack the trans hit the ground n trans oil started leaking out.thats those wet spots on the ground.Other than that i did'nt have any more mishap's..

 

Hmm, if you had lots of patients you would likely be a Dr. and could afford to have any of the work done by a pro shop.

On the other hand if you had tons of patience, you would probably be someone who is patient, tolerant and understanding. Interesting how the english language works. Putting an 's' on the end of a word doesn't always achieve the desired result. It was funny to see the word patients taken out of context though.

The word 'patient' is spelled the same whether it's an adjective or noun. However, depending on choice of usage it has completely different meanings.

 

 

Could someone correct me if im wrong.but this guy is telling me not to remove the stearing box cause i will not be able to get the alignment right wen it goes back together.I would like to kno is this true because from what i remember after reading a couple threads on hear i know i see alot of guys remove it.OR i dont!!!!

 

The alignment is done by shims on the Upper Control arm and it's all dependent on the front steering and suspension parts being in good shape. If you don't take anything apart other than take out the steering box, I seriously doubt you'll even need an alignment when you put it back in. If you're planning to rebuild the steering or suspension then yes you'll need an alignment.

re: your torque converter? It looks too new to be original. I'm guessing someone has done the tranny in this car not too long ago.

 

Regarding the steering box, as mentioned, it's not really removing the box that causes a need for an alignment. It is removing the shims on the upper control arms and the tie rod adjusters and installing new components (bushings, springs, ball joints).
If you are going to rebuild the suspension, meaning replacing the springs, control arm bushing, ball joints etc, then just note which shims came from exactly which location. IE, front driver side control arm bolt shims or rear driver side control arm bolt shims. Same for pass side. Put all the shims back in the exact place they came from.
Also, for the tie rod adjusters/sleeves, count the number of teeth on the tie rods that are exposed from each end of each tie rod sleeve. Put the new tie rods and sleeves on with the same number of teeth showing as it had when you removed the adjusters/sleeves. This should get the alignment close enough to get you safely to the alignment shop.
This is exactly what I did when I restored my car and rebuilt the suspension and when I took it to get it aligned, knowing that I had completely dissassembled and reassembled it, the tech was amazed at how little adjustment was needed to get it aligned perfectly.
Be very careful removing the springs. You might do a google search for tips on doing that safely.

 

Yes i'm going to rebuild everything on the frame so i will keep this in mind.This whole process has bin fun to me especially wen i'm getting things done by myself.I've bin learning alot from u guys reading every thread that comes up somtimes same thread more than once.After a couple more days of work i should be down to the cleaning and restoring things....yes yes yes

 

Sounds like you have the right attitude. One piece at a time. Before you know it, you'll be putting new trim pieces back on your painted car.

 

Best way to learn is doing it yourself. Just went through that front end build last year. I wish I had known the advice Randy gave you about the inner/outer tie rods then. At times it can feel like you're in over your head. That's when you just stop, regroup and focus on one thing at a time.

Whatever your time frame for this is? At least double or triple it to do a good job.

 

1st i got to say thank you guys for all the advice and info....And after reading all these threads i realize that u cant put a time limit on these project unless your at it everyday.Other than that i just go wit the flow like everyone says take it ONE STEP at a time and i'll be ok.C.O is like facebook for me now all i do is read different threads as i get a chance to from my phone to a cumputer.I wish i was this interested in learning when i was in school n i would've bin a scientist or somthing.Even some of my family members aww to the fact that im actually trying to build a car instead of hanging out going clubing and chasing females..LOL even though im not done wit that one HMMM...

 

Just out of interest your 71 has rust in all the same places as mine on my 72 S coupe I used a chevelle top section and dash repair panel new out of the states not good used parts here in new zealand we still had to fabricate about about a inch and half strip for the dash overall work really well . can send you pictures if you need them .

just a note on the back we had to remake that other back section of the rear window as well have pictures also if needed cheers

 

Is that you Wal?

 

yes mate it is going well into the chassis now ..

 

And about the piece by the back window i think (OPG) has that panel now i have a 71cutlass book from them.Only part they dont have is that cowl panel and the metal part of the dash same place were talking bout

 

 

 

 

Nice progress so far. I am about to start a project of my own. I was thinking I was in too deep and I haven't even started yet. Lol. It will be winter soon in Ohio so outside stuff will not consume my time and I usually do winter projects anyways.
Good luck and I am looking forward to tracking your progress

 

Be careful if you decided to do any work on the front control arms, ball joints, etc... There is a lot of spring pressure there. A front end alignment is required if you replace any of the steering components. Unbolting the steering box as mentioned above does not require an alignment, however if one has not been performed in many years, why get one when the car goes back together.

 

Good progress sir

It's just a 1:1 model car, right? Clean, paint, replace with new as needed, and reassemble. The Assembly Manual will help a lot. It looks like your tie rod adjusting collar clamps are on upside down- may not matter, or they may interfere with other components if located above the sleeve.

I am a little disturbed by your bracket where the front rubber line joins the short steel line to the front wheel cylinder. Surely that bracket is supposed to be bolted to something... but there's nothing nearby. It's been a while since I did one of these front-drum cars, I forget the details. I know you can't have that joint just hanging in the breeze though.

 

Since you've got the sway bar out, MAW just go ahead with the whole meal deal cleanup. Those sway bar bushings look like they were recently replaced, and the tie rod clamps are definitely wrong. Good call Octania.

The brake hose should be bolted to the knuckle assembly front bolt. there is a bracket (shown in the pics attached to the hose) and an eccentric adapter it should be attached to on the knuckle. ref: Page 108 of the CSM

 

yes it was bolted as shown in the pic from allen but i took dis pic after i started working so dats y it's hanging in the air.And allen and that (MAW) i'm going all the way with this one from the ground up everything is off of the frame now i have to start cleaning and replacing parts and i have to get the frame blasted and painted first but i wont do that untill after x-mas because i promised moms i'll paint her house as a x-mas gift and i also have to paint my marauder as the clear coat on the hood is sheading and it's becoming a pain to my eye's.so i'll see were im at after da holidays pass.

 

LOL , I totally missed that one .... I love your explanation on this BTW .

Here's one for Allan to decipher for us . Sorry jahlyfe'scutty .... I couldn't resist .

 

lol i dont blame you...lol lets see wat allen say about this one...

 

Remember John Bannerman? (Shultz on Hogan's Hero's) He's my spokesman on this:

 

lol

 

That car is a "peach" compared to some others-believe or not. When you have a few minutes look up my thread in this same forum under " Update Progress on 64 "Post". I never went this far a building a car either.

 

I know NOTHING , I see NOTHING !

 

[QUOTE=therobski;485030]That car is a "peach" compared to some others-believe or not. When you have a few minutes look up my thread in this same forum under " Update Progress on 64 "Post". I never went this far a building a car either.
[/QUOTE I always thought it was hard to totally take a car apart but after all its not and with the help of the guys on here i mean how could i not make progress.

 

this weekend im going to try and do some cleaning of da frame and see wat i come out with.Any advice on which way to go im going to try the wire brush and see but some people say blasting is the best way to go.I got a price check for $250-300 just for the frame.So should i go that route or try the wire wheel and do it myself i mean i have the time to sit down and do it.And with the paint and primer how do i go about that por15 and chassis blk is da most popular brands i hear about but i dont really know were to start i will be doing this tomarow as im done taking everything off that was suppose to come off.so can someone please tell me were to start

 

For 250 -300? Send it out. NOT worth the time, dust and frustration wire wheeling for that. Blasting will get everything you can see right down to the nooks and crannies and it will be totally clean/ready for paint or powder.

If you elect to paint? Yes, use primer and then chassis black (it's semi gloss ) the way the factory did. If you elect to powder coat - that's even better because the coating will electrically pull all the powder to even parts inside the frame openings. PC costs a little more but well worth it.

POR the frame? Messy. You have to douse it with metal prep first for about half hour making sure it stays wet with continued application. Then it has to be washed clean with fresh water and dried before POR application. I did that on the front part of my frame last year. Never again. Based on what results I got, IMO primer/paint or PC are the best ways to go.