Yep! right on the money, N50-15's from god knows how long ago. They were on a chevelle that my friend's friend restored. I got em from a buddy of mine who had no use for em. I tried looking up Grand Am Superwide GT's on google and didn't find much. The one rim isn't too bad but the other side, the chrome came off in the dish in a sheet, looks like water sat in there for a while. I was considering having them rechomed but at the cost of that vs a nice used set I think I'm gonna leave em for a while. I'll add WD 40 to my ever expanding shopping list. I'm having a blast, the car looks sooooo much better now than it did when I first got it. Heres a quick flashback:

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So I dug into my brakes today to figure out the problem. First I took off the MC, that didn't help and the pedal still stayed to the floor, and when pulling/pushing the pedal you could here a sucking and blowing sound from the booster and all the rubber seals were shot. The brakes worked fine when the booster wasn't being powered, so looks like the booster is the problem. Yanked it out, and I'm picking up the new one tomorrow around 2ish, so look for an update on that. The MC is fine, springs back and operates smooth, ect so I'm gonna reuse it. I do have new rubber hoses for the front, which I hope to get in there tomorrow also

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So I got the new booster in and the MC back in behind it and everything seems to be in order. the pedal feels perfect (well, without the engine running, I no longer have the borrowed battery so I have to test with power brakes tomorrow or so). I'll keep you guys updated, but for now, heres a pic:

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After brakes, I just need to get a new fuel tank set up and a full tune up (fresh oil, coolant, trans fluid, rear end gear oil, plug wires, air filter, oil filter) and then shes ready for the road!

 

Okay guys so I have a question for ya. How long should I run the car before checking/adding transmission fluid? Obviously I don't have a place to actually drive the car around more than maybe 30-40 feet. So, How long is long enough to let the car sit and idle before checking the trans fluid? It looks excellent but I'm sure its low.

 

I'd let it get to operating temp. If you dont have a gauge then check when the upper radiator hose gets hot. You should be able to get it close, cold, in park.

 

Good idea. I've gotta pick up a set of side post terminals, 5 quarts of oil, and oil filter, and some trans fluid and get to it

 

Most recent pictures of the car

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With matching front wheels and lowering the back, so it almost appeared the body was sitting on the tire, your car would look pretty mean! I like it

 

Those back wheels looks like it took a kick in the ***** and its eyes are popping out of their sockets.

But, if they get you moving, that's more than acceptable. :P

 

It looks pretty badass with the rear raised like it is I think but when I was dealing with a leveling issue and drained the air out of the system the inner fenders sat almost on the back tires and it did look good hahaha

Eh, I like the way it looks. Those tires probably won't last 1000 miles though so it will have the matching bullethole rims on the back with new tires eventually. Probably with 275/70/15's but honestly I'm running out of money fast so whatever I can get

 

It's a free country, so if you like it... :P

I'd go for matching rims if possible as well.

 

The oil change went smooth as silk today. Oil came out clean and uncompromised with no water or chunks. Oil filter came out easy peasy with a big set of channel locks. New STP filter and fresh 10W-40 oil. Tomorrow I'm putting the flat-side battery terminals in and putting the new battery in, also topping off the trans fluid. I got the reverse lights, turn signals, license plate light, wipers, tail lights/brake lights, and headlights w/ high beams all working.

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So, the water pump is pumping fine, got the trans fluid topped off and the new battery and terminals in. All lights working, ect. I guess the next step is getting a gas tank and bleeding the brakes. I'm having a problem though. None of my wrench's fit properly on the bleeder valve nuts. It seems the only size that is in between the ones that are too big, and the ones are are too small, is an 11/32's which I don't have and neither does my grandfather. I know it exits because theres a socket in my socket set for it but I can't get a socket on the nut anyway. I guess I'll pick up an 11/32's wrench then

 

So, today I drained the original tank and flushed it, put all new rubber lines and filter and put a couple gallons of fresh fuel in there and she runs good on the tank. so, I'm happy. Once I bleed the brakes its completely road ready

 

Your moving right along.

 

So far so good! I graduated high school and since I switch between NC and NY I don't have a job to take up my time so I just work on the old cutlass. I buy/sell cars to make money to fund my projects .

Tonight I'm gonna run to lowes or home depot and pick up an 11/32 wrench and bleed the brakes. I don't have any paperwork for the car but my dad was the last registered owner and in NY I should be able to go in with a picture or tracing of the VIN and get a reg and plates. I am required to get it inspected but I have a buddy of mine who can take care of that

 

Don't try a wrench, use a 1/4" drive 6 point
socket or you will round those suckers and
have to use vise grips. PB blast them 6 hrs.
prior to breaking them loose. I would if it was me.
Good luck, sounds like your almost there.
I have a driver quality rear bumper I would take
$100 for plus the ship.

 

I'd love to use a socket but I can't get one on because the knuckle/spindle is in the way. I could get a box end wrench on it. Any idea how much the shipping would be? zip code 12477.

 

Do you have an ignition wrench set, Sears sells them and they are a 6pt boxed end. You can also use a 6pt 1/4 drive ratchet.

 

Theres a sears not too far from here, I may have to go. Of course its in a mall, so that sucks but what can I do

 

PM sent on the bumper.

 

I had to loosen the wheel cylinder bolts to get a socket on it. Then when I put a new cylinder on it i had to grind it down some because the chinese part would not fit.

 

I think its time for some pics!

I converted it to fuel injection . Thats to fill the bowl to run it until the old gas pumped out
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I pulled about 2 gallons maybe a little more of old gas out of the car
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After that drained, I put a gallon in the tank and fired it up to pump it and this is what came out. Much better but still not great
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After that I added another gallon and fired it up! runs good.

I also finally got the rusty crusty sack of crap back seat out although the seat back is stuck at the center on the top. I got the bottom bolts out
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When I first got the the car I was rolling down windows to air it out and this rear quarter window just kinda sank into the door and vanished. I got the panel off and got the window out but I CANT FIGURE OUT HOW IT GOES BACK IN!
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Heres the glass null_zps174a4bee.jpg

I pulled the track out but heres the major problem. I can't get the leftmost bushing (the one with the spring) to go into the track. I also couldnt get it without those springs. Any advice?

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The tank probably needs to be dropped and taken to a radiator shop to be cleaned because there is a glob of vanish in there form fuel sitting for however long. Your fuel sock and float are probably also gummed up.

The window is pain but keep working at it you'll get it. Take the interior panel off the other side and you can see how it goes together.

 

I guess we'll find out, it seems to run fine as is. If it plugs up and stops running I'll drop the tank. I've put so much effort and ate so much rust trying to get that stupid tank out that I'm pretty much procrastinating at this point. I need to cut the bolts closes to the axle that hold the tank straps in because their rusted and won't move. If I had my impact gun I'd give that a try but its 700 miles away. So the tank stays until it becomes a problem

 

Use a plastic in line semi see through fuel filter so you can see the kaka in there, if it gets ugly throw on a new one.

The rear seat should come right out when you pull the 2 lower bolts. Then just tilt the bottom of it to the front and lift.

 

Yeah thats what I'm doing, the filter looks good so far I'm keeping my eye on it. The bottom of the seat tilts out just fine and is loose on the ends at the top but the middle is stuck and the seat has no structure to push up on it all rusted away. Ugh, I new I'd need to interior I just didn't know it would be this much of a PITA to get the old out!

 

It hooks toward the top so you have to get it to rise up and out of the slots.

 

There are two hooks at the top on the sides. Maybe the seat is rusted to the metal behind the seat.

 

Well with a bit of brute force I got the seat out. The whole frame is rotted except the rim that goes around the edge. The foam is ruined and the cover isn't very good so I guess I'm gonna hunt craigslist for some seat stuff. So, now the focus is the window.

toasted seats
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seats out
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Am I right in thinking this is the way it goes together?
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This seems to be a problem. The edges of the outside lip of the bushing seem too wide to fit in the track and are bending. Any tips?
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Figured it out on my own, I'm quite the moron sometimes haha. Turns out one of the little plastic wheels had came off and fallen down into the bowels of the quarter panel. Found it, put it back on and put the track back on the glass the right way. I had to put the track in the quarter panel first, keep the adjustment bolts loose, and drop the window in. then about 15 minutes of adjusting and here I am

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Here's the pics on the bumper.
Couldn't post them on a PM.

I can pack it in cardboard and
see what ups would want for shipping.

 

Decent, about the same shape as the rest of the car, it'll blend right in my current bumper is horrible so that one is a big improvement. once I've got a little more fun money if I can't find anything local I'll send ya another PM. You don't have to go through the trouble of getting a quote just yet. I should only need to bleed the brakes before I can call it a driver but I'm sure after ~50 miles the gaskets in the carb will leak and the tank'll clog and tie rods will get sloppy and wheel cylinders will pop seals so I'm just prepping for the worst and hoping for the best

 

If he has a Fastenal close to him (and you) that will be cheapest. I just shipped a bumper from NY to FL for like $65

Fastenal 3PL quote form (third party logistics).

http://www.fastenal.com/web/en/22/th...logistics-(3pl)

 

We Do have a Fastenal in town.
I'm sure they do somewhere in
New York as well. Thanks for the
tip Ally.

No prob on the wait J. I totally
understand. Get a job, lol.

 

Maybe I'll have to apply at the local Monroe muffler and brake shop I've got a couple cars or "investments" to sell, thats how I keep the cash flow going

 

Ha ha, or maybe the local Fastenal.
Employees get free shipping....maybe.

 

Well, finally at the home stretch. Got all the bleeder valves loosened and opened up (Of course closed back up and opened to bleed one by one) and while I got the back bled, I can't the the little probe nipple thing from the one man bleeder kit into the bleeder fittings and I can't get the hose without the probe nipple thing, overtop of the bleeder fittings cause the hose is too small. Also, my pedal is now SOFTER than it was before. UGH! finally in the home stretch, last thing to do before putting it on the road, and can't get it done.

 

You got this, you just need a helper
to push on the pedal fer ya.

 

I've actually found out that atleast one of the little bleeder nipples (hehehe I said nipples ) is plugged and after 15 minutes with a paperclip and carb cleaner it isn't any better. I wonder if NAPA sells just the little nipple fittings