Hello, long time forum reader first time poster. I have to make this quick because this computer is at an internet cafe, and I won't have internet for awhile. I am rebuilding a 1970 Cutlass S with a 455 from a '70 Toro. The engine is sleeping due to the stock .440" cam lift. I want to wake it up a bit. The TH350 auto behind it is pretty much shot and about to be replaced, so I can build that around the new cam if needed.

I've been looking at Edelbrock 2152 (would match the 2151 manifold I have) and also CL42-231-4 COMP cam. The only major changes I've made to the engine is the intake manifold HEI, and headers. I can get some more info soon, but it may be a few days. I appreciate your time and thoughts.

Will post pictures soon.

Wombosi

 

Welcome to the site! There's folks here with a lot of engine knowledge, I'm sure someone will speak up and help you with your cam selection. John

 

Thanks 2blue442

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Frame-on resto for now, and the current pics of the car are on a different machine. I'll get them up in two days.

I've been doing some more thinking about the cam lift. How much lift is too much to still use stock vacuum-boosted brakes? I've been thinking about .490" ish but maybe that's pushing it.

 

Very nice!

 

Here are some more recent pictures after I got 'most' of it back together.

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Looking forward to any advice you guys might have about cam size.

 

Hello again,

I've done alot of research, and I hit another hangup. The engine I have has 'E' Toro heads on it. I am looking for close-to-stock pushrod replacement set. My pushrods measure just over 9.5" but all the "stock replacement" rods are circa 9.65" and 9.75". Will this make as much of a difference if I get these slightly longer pushrods with a slightly more radical cam?

I'm going from stock .440 intake lift to about .472-.480 depending on further research. Would appreciate any advice you guys might have.

-Bosi

 

Bump

 

I have no experience messing with pushrod lenghts, so no insight on that, but I believe the E heads were standard 455 heads on any model in 1970.

 

To check pushrod length I believe there is a grease they sell to check the contact pattern. I am sure if you YouTube it something comes up. You can also buy an adjustabkle pushrob to use to make sure you get a good contact pattern.

 

Just but an adjustable push rod for checking length.

 

Thanks for the advice, I am happy to hear your thoughts. I went ahead and ordered the Edelbrock 2152 with .472 intake lift. I am trying to make it similar to the W-30 and W-32 of the same year.

I also bought a set of 9.652" comp cam push rods in case the stock ones aren't long enough. With my old cam I had a problem with getting enough pre-load with my current push-rods. I was also able to easily turn every rod even at 26-28 lbs/square inch on the pivot bolts. Maybe the stock ones are too short. It also could have been my lifters malfunctioning I suppose.

Again, thanks for your responses.

 

After a long series of unfortunate events, I finally got the engine fully built and supported. The break-in time was going flawlessly, the engine rumbled like music. After about 5 minutes, a loud crash occurred and the engine stopped suddenly. Now the engine won't turn at all. Looking forward to cracking it open again and seeing what catastrophe awaits.

 

Well that doesn't sound very good. Sounds like catastrophic failure praying for ya. Had this happen with a Pontiac 400-jumped pushrod and exploded lifter but she still ran minus the 5psi oil pressure!

 

Just a quick update: I pulled the intake manifold and everything is intact so far. Cam looks good, no push rods are bent, all lifters were pumping oil and rocker arms receiving oil. I drained all the oil out and so far no chunks/shavings. I will pull the heads off tomorrow to look for other damage as well as pull the oil pan (dreading this part) and check crankshaft for obstructions.

Bosi

 

Wombosi: I feel your pain! Please keep us posted.

 

Pulled the heads and everything was intact. Happened to look at the new coil I installed in the distributor and noticed it was massively burned. Found my problem.

 

Does.the engine turn over by hand or is it stuck?

 

It turns over very easily by hand. I think the reason it didn't turn is related to the sudden battery drain not giving the starter enough power. After that I didn't try to turn it for fear of further damage. I will check the oil pan just to make sure. The voltage regulator was replaced last year and worked with the old coil pack, so I don't think that would be the problem. Now just waiting on head gaskets to get here next week.

 

I finally got the engine back together. With some minor tweaks of the distributor, I had the engine roaring for about five minutes, then it died. No cylinders would ignite again. While it was running, it shook like crazy. I'm surprised the engine mounts are still intact. Still had a slight popping noise coming out of cylinder 8.

I checked the coil, but it looked ok. However, the distributor is getting power but isn't making any sparks, so I'm sure it's the coil that fried again.

In the previous weeks I got a new voltage regulator, new coil, new cap + rotor. I tested the alternator and it was giving a constant 61 amps. The battery is new.

I'm giving up on this engine. I will start parting it out and hope to put the money towards a better one.

 

Don't part out that engine, I think I know what your problem with the coil is. You're running an HEI, correct? How do you have the coil wired. If it's in the factory wiring, you have to run a direct 12v wire to that lead. Do a search for HEI wiring, and you should be able to find it, or someone else here can help out.
Nice looking car BTW.

 

mike, thanks for the input. I did a full overhaul of the ignition system. I've got pure 12V going to the distributor whenever the key is in the running and start position. Even if I could get the distributor coil to stop frying, I don't want to bother with trying to balance the engine because it's so far out of whack.

 

Dude, earlier posts, you said the engine was roaring great, on the break in run, then it just quit. She turns over freely, getting fuel, it's gotta be in the ignition. Check ALL of your wiring. You're cooking coils for some reason.

 

What kind of oil pressure are you getting?

 

I haven't checked the oil pressure. Would be a good thing to check. There's good oil getting to the rocker arms. Just replaced a broken oil fill tube.

As for the electrical, I've verified gaps and wire resistances. The circuit seems fine up to the 12v wire leading into the 'Batt' terminal on the distributor. It's definitely overworked coil problem. I have two modifications that I made about 1 1/2 years ago that had worked fine.

1. Extra wire running from positive terminal on alternator to positive terminal on battery
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2. External starter solenoid
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I could eliminate this from the circuit; however, I don't think it's doing anything while the starter isn't cranking.

I'm going to have some professionals look at it next week if I can rent a car hauler. I've been trying to get this engine working good for the better part of a year now, and used about $1600 on new parts.

 

Please keep us updated. I for 1 am not that great at diagnosing elec. gremlins, and any bits of info I gather, always help.

 

I finally put 3 and 3 together last night and figured out that the solenoid is indeed sticking, maybe causing the starter to be engaged while the engine is running. It would explain the starter sounding very tired now. Also there are little weld spots on each point on the distributor cap. Regardless, I think the solenoid needs to go. Will retest spark plugs and wires for damage, as well as the rest of the wiring harness. Will test these theories on Monday when the parts store opens.

Thanks for all your support and advice.

 

Fixed the electrical part: The new rotor cap was way out of spec, a resistor module in the distributor was cooked, and the new coil was weak.

A leak-down test after running the car 15 min showed extremely leaky heads but the pistons were still making a good seal.

Some valve seats were out of spec. The heads were sent in to be reworked, and several valves were replaced (mostly exhaust). Repainted them yesterday. The car might be back together early next week.

 

Cool, hopefully no more gremlins!