I would love to see your car run when its finished. Union Grove is a fun track I would love to get some runs in myself. I'm not very fast yet but it is a lot of fun.

I was at Westech in Silver Lake a few weeks back. I didn't realize how close you were until I got home. Nice to know there are Olds fans close by.

 

That sounds like a cool color it should match the frame with the purple flakes i got my paint through keystone the silver met was theirs and the candy red was house of color they have alot of cool colors too of their line at some good prices

 

Today was a very exciting day for me. We finally fired up the engine in the car. It sounded great. I spent the last couple days wiring the ignition and gauges. I had to turn the crank trigger wheel to get it set up right. When I installed it I set it to zero degrees. I did not realize it needed to be set to full advance. The instructions don’t cover this at all. I pulled my MSD distributor and used the original points type dizzy from the car. We gutted it and locked it out. The MSD cap adapter fitted on there real nice. I set it to 40 degrees just for initial fire up. The engine came to life right away. There was a slight fuel leak at the bowls on the carb. I snugged up the bolts and took care of that problem. I then had a major fuel leak at my pump. It’s a BG400 I picked up off Fleabay a few years back. I’m sure it sat too long. Funny thing is it didn’t leak right away. Then it started pissing big time. I ordered a rebuild kit for $20 with Viton seals. As soon as I get that fixed I’ll post a video. I did have one other problem, my master kill switch did not shut the car down instantly. The one wire alternator must have kept feeding the switched wire to the MSD digital 7 ignition box I have. I’m going to run the alternator directly to the battery on the other side of the emergency cut off switch. Right now I have it wired to a power distribution lug going through the firewall. I called MSD about this. There is some information about this specific problem in the trouble shooter section. It said to install a diode on the regulator side but this does not help me with a one wire alternator. It feels like I’m so close now. Just a couple thousand bucks away from goin’ down the track. I’m thinking of selling my motorcycle but my wife said the household could really use that money. F*** that.
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I cant wait to see it completed . Don't know if you have anyone in mind for paint but I helped my good friend do this one. Located here in il 20 min. from me if you are interested I can get you guys in touch.

 

Awesome, can't wait for the video.

 

Glad you are getting to it will be looking for the video. Thanks again for the tranny info

 

Enjoy Olds race fans!

 

AWESOME Dave ........
thanks for posting the video

 

Really a sense of accomplishment I am sure! Nice video and engine rumble. I am excited for you. What a machine you have created!!

 

I'm sure you are a happy man, wow what a great car.Ilove the sound too.

 

Absolutely awesome!!!

 

 

Smart a## love your video Dave got to see it sometime when we are down that way

 

Thanks again for all your support. I'm glad you liked the video. Anyone travelling through Southeastern Wisconsin is welcome to come by for a cackle fest. I wish I could invite you all to the track for it's debut, but unfortunately I'm still broke and the car still needs a few things before it is track ready. It's kinda like having a Hot Wheels car when your a kid but having no track.
Right now I have some other priorities over paint & no funds for anything. I don't even know what color I'm going to go with. I do appreciate the offer and down the road I might take you up on that.

 

Well I made a little more progress. I got the front brakes all done. Mounted the calipers, made some aluminum hose holders and routed thesteel lines from the master to the manual proportioning valve to the line lock and out to each of the front wheels. I love it when everything comes together smoothly. I’ve been real busy with other stuff lately so I haven’t made the time to work on the race car. Tomorrow I’m going to lower the rear differential to pull the rear wheels & order the rear brakes Monday. It’s pretty tempting to plug the rear line and go do some smokey burn outs. Hell I’ve waited this long.



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Wow, Just noticed this thread-amazing!!! Great work.

 

I likey!

 

I finally got my rear brakes. My chassis builder got them for his cost with no shipping charges. Glad I wasn't in a hurry. I was surprised how small the box was. Now I just have to install them. Looks pretty straight forward. After the weather breaks we're going to trailer it to the chassis shop so they can fix the radiator mount and scale it for me. Then we can order the shocks and springs. A couple thousand more should do it. Man these last few things are really killin' me. I'm so close. I really need to sell something.
As most of you probably know, I've been helping a couple board members with their cylinder heads. Those porting jobs are almost done now. One of the sets of heads belongs to Coppercutlass. He's going to help me with painting my car. He's done some work on the roof already to fix the tin canning issue. Pretty amazing what he did with a hammer and dolly. He also put some sound deadener on the under side to help stiffen it up.
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Well I got the rear brakes installed today. It was pretty easy, but time consuming. First I had to drill out the rotor hats for the 9/16" studs. Apparently Wilwood does not make a race car rotor hat for that size stud. It was easy because the hat was made of aluminum. Then I had to go to the hardware store for some grade 8 fine thread fasteners to mount the caliper holder to the axle. I had to grind a little off the head of each bolt to make them fit. I also used nylock nuts on these. I safety wired the hat to the rotor and the caliper bolts also. This was my first time doing safety wire. It's pretty slick.


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Very nice !

 

I brightened the photos up with the editor and replaced the originals, I don't understand why they posted up so dark. Here you can see why I had to grind the bolts. I even ran the steel lines today. I just need to get one more 1/8-27 NPT adapter fitting.
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Love this car Can't wait to see it run. Thanks for posting this!

 

Amazing project!

 

Getting closer Dave! Whos car are we going to take a ride in first yours or Robz?

 

I don't know. Norm's pretty good at dragin' his feet, but I'm still extremely broke. I really gotta sell something.

 

Seems like alot of motor guys are slow mine took me 2 1/2 years to get back so I understand I was starting to get really angry with mine I had my whole car frame off finished and waited 1 year after that for the motor. But it does run well. You could always get the wife a second night job.

 

[QUOTE=archeryshooter; You could always get the wife a second night job.[/QUOTE]

Thought about puting her out on the street corner, but some guy with a big ******* would come along, and that would end up costing me more money. LOL - glad to hear yours is still runnin' strong. We'll get together this summer for sure.

 

Sounds good! should have my new tranny in next week I still got ice in front of my garage

 

In case you're not satisfied with those ground off bolt heads, a t-bolt is made for a narrow clearance application like that, and will spread the load a bit farther along the flange of the end housing. They are what I used to secure the bearing retainers to my Moser housing ends.

 

Thanks for your input Mongoose. I think these will work just fine for me. I was kind of surprised they weren't included in the kit.

 

Well guys, J(Chicago) stopped up on Sunday with his friend Jim. We got the brakes bled. We also dug a 350DX block out of my storage trailer. I'm looking foreward to watching the master, Milan, build that thing up. Keep your eyes open for that one. I'm sure he's got a few tricks up his sleeve. It was kind of a bitch chipping the ice from around my cherry picker. That Jeremy is a party aminal. I think he's a bad influence on me.

 

Well happy Easter to everyone. I took the beast out for it's maiden voyage around the block today. Yeah it was a stiff ride with no shocks or springs, and the alignment is jacked up, but man it was cool. This is the first time this car has moved under it's own power in years. I'm getting closer, just need to sell some more junk. Here's some photos I took in the driveway. It's been a couple years since it's been down on the ground off the jack stands.
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Probably one of the best feelings in the world man. That's freaking awesome. Bumpy ride or not I bet you where grining like a little kid on easter lol.

 

Congrats to you, I know you are a happy man.

 

Awesome !!!!!!

 

You have done a heck of a job on it looks great I would like to have seen you driving it. Maybe sometime when you are ready for the Grove! Im thinking candy purple would look killer on that ride for sure.

 

Hey guys, we started doing some of the finish body work and I could really use some help. I would really appreciate it if someone with a well restored or original '67 could measure some gaps for me. I'm not a body man, but the young man helping me has asked for reference measurements. This car has been modified so heavily and has been under construction for so long we don't know where to start. Usually I would just use a stir stick, but that's not going to work for us everywhere. Specifically I'm looking for door gaps, front and back, hood gaps, trunk gaps. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

my car gapped out at 3/16 doors hood and fenders…. never installed the trunk
the only thing that didn't was bottom of doors to rockers those where at 5/16

 

Im curious about your floor pans. Are they aluminum or steel? and are all the pans riveted in? also are your wheel tubs attached to the body in any way? Im finally putting my back half in and am trying to decide between aluminum and steel floor pans and wanted a general idea of how they are fastened in the car. just went back through the thread and saw you riveted your panels in

 

The firewall was moved back, is steel, tig welded in. The front floor pans are steel, and tig welded in. The metal behind the tunnel is steel, and mig welded in. Everything else is aluminum and pop riveted in. Including the wheel tubs. The only thing that's not riveted in is the tunnel. We used Zeus fasteners there for easier trans access.


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If you need any detail close ups, just let me know. You might just get to the track with your gasser before me.