2blu442

I've got the core support stripped and will get some photos for you tomorrow. I'll also find a box to ship it in.

John

bluecab

Charlie, what is it about them that makes them a single use clamp?

John, thanks again for all your help!

Charlie Jones

The band stretches as they are installed , that's why they seal so well .
Once stretched , they can't be used again.

bluecab

Thanks, Charlie.

I bought 4 of those clamps to start. They were also recommended by Scott at Classic Exhaust.

I also figured out that I will need the exhaust flanges to clamp to the manifold.

These are 2 bolt with a hole center of 4.065 so I bought some from Summit that are 4" center to center hoping they will fit the 2.5" pipe without much persuasion.

The remainder of the exhaust system is due here Friday, still waiting for an open slot at the dyno room...

EightballZ

nice work..

what did you use between fuel tank and straps? some kind of a rubber mat?

bluecab

Hey eightballz,

I used some 1/4" polyurathane mat for the top of the tank that rests against the box sections underneath the trunk.

I think I'll use some of the flat stick-on rubber pipe insulation for the straps, unless I find something better.

I'm also going to need to repair the sender and weld the pickup back in when I get some time.

I would post some photos but Apple has changed the photo storage software which makes it really hard to find photos when you have a lot of them stored.

bluecab

Here is a pic of that roll insulation. Not sure if there is anything better available, but would like to know if there is...

bluecab

And here is the sender.
The strap that connects the sender core to the top part is broken.
I have to test it and if it tests ok I'll solder it back together.

harascho

bluecab

Hey Harald,

Good call on opening the sender, I had not thought of that. I was just going to put a meter on it and solder the strap..

I forgot to do anything about filling the crossover before the engine was together, but I might do it later. I do have an original divorced choke for the carb, so I guess I will use that for a while.

My '73 has a manual choke, but it does not seem to work that well. I think it needs better routing and a new cable.

I don't know what temperatures you will be driving in most of the time, but I run boat motors with quadrajets with no chokes at all and it just takes a little longer to warm them up. Probably no good if you run all year though..

Still waiting on a few exhaust parts and the dyno date.

Can't wait to see some new photos of your build! Will you take it to a dyno to break it in?

bluecab

I've had no time to work on the Toro recently, but I did finally get the pipes that attach to the manifolds.
One side got sent to Canada by mistake and it took a while to get it repatriated.
I missed the slot I had at the dyno as a result, but hope to get the motor down there soon...

bluecab

Here's another view of the front pipes.
Because the car came to me with a rotted/butchered/missing exhaust I was really surprised to see that the new left and right front sections were different.
Thanks to 2blu442 who sent me photos of the exhaust on his '67 that show that they are not symmetrical.

bluecab

The 425 saw the light of day for the first time since 2011.
I put it in my truck and took it to the dyno shop in CT to await a time slot for testing.
You folks from big midwest and western states might note that the car is in Massachusetts, the engine shop in Rhode Island and the dyno facility in Connecticut.
Sorry for the sideways photo...

ydennekkram

Awesome post David, I can't wait to see the final product. Did you get the muffler and resonators from Classic Exhaust as well? I bought the full SS system for my 67, installed it last year, it fit pretty much perfectly. Very subtle rumble with the resonators and muffler, I like it but it doesn't sound very aggressive.

EightballZ

as for the exhaust..i welded two of these guys together at the bottom..great fit

http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/supe...same-side.html

bluecab

I'm using a complete stainless system from Classic Exhaust, up sized to 2 1/2 inches from the factory 2 1/4 inches.
I skipped the resonators as I can add them later if it turns out to be too loud.
Don't have a photo of the muffler to post but I will once I get back to the garage.

bluecab

Well, the motor is at the dyno shop, waiting for a flywheel that Mark "cutlassefi" has graciously lent me.
Of course, when I dropped the motor off, they did not mention that the flex plate would not be useful to attach the engine to their dyno.
In a way, I'm glad that I am too busy with work in the summer to get much done on the Toronado. Otherwise I would be climbing the walls in anticipation....

EightballZ

i hear you....i'm removing 40 year old asphalt based undercoating from my toronado right now...winter would make such a better season for doing that kind of work

bluecab

As Haracho suggested I took the fuel tank sender apart for a cleaning.
The first photo shows the inside of the cover which holds the resistor windings.
I gave them a swipe with a pencil eraser and blew then off with some carb cleaner. It's easy to see how this assembly could go bad if exposed to anything that would corrode the copper.
If you look closely the fine wire can be seen wrapped around some sort of insulator


Here is the other side of the guts with the little wiper that contacts the winding and moves across it varying the resistance as the float moves up and down.
The photo is not well focused, but the shiny copper button is the wiper, kind of like half of a set of points.

This view might make more sense. Be careful not to let the spring slide off and bounce somewhere you will spend too much time looking for it!

I soldered the strap that conducts the signal up to the twist-lock plate that goes on the tank and measured the output.

At the sender a full tank reads 107 ohms and empty is 14 ohms, so it is not too far off spec.

bluecab

Looks like Tomorrow is Dyno day.

I have been waiting for this day since I bought the car in pieces in 2011.

I have never heard the motor run...

For those of you new to the thread or who did not see the ".921 roller thread" the motor is a 425 bored .030 over with cast 10.5:1 cast Egge pistons, hydraulic roller lifters, a Lunati cam 295/279, .542/.544 on 110lsa. Comp 17043 roller rockers.

Because this is actually going back into a Toro I'll be using the factory depressed center intake manifold w/ q-jet and factory exhaust manifolds

Wish me well, I hope not to be one of those guys on youtube whose motor explodes!

Feel free to guess at what it will dyno at.... I hope to post results by the end of the day tomorrow!

David

cutlassefi

I'm guessing you got the flywheel?

If you're using exhaust manifolds then I'd say 400/470 corrected.

bluecab

Well, Dyno day was a bust.

When the operator tried to prime the oil system with a drill, the oil pressure would not come up past 10psi, so I loaded it back in the truck and took it to the engine shop for them to check it out

A setback for sure, but I am confident that it will get sorted out..

For those who were wondering about the attachment to the dyno, the second photo shows the flywheel that cutlassefi generously lent me and how it bolts up to the dyno

Don't know why the photos come out sideways now...

TripDeuces

I hope he was turning the drill counterclockwise.

bluecab

I asked the same thing. They seemed confident that they were running the pump in the correct direction.
Just to clarify: Olds is counterclockwise, do many other motors go clockwise?
I would be super annoyed if I spent the day driving this motor around for that!

therobski

Yes sir, make sure you put the drill in "reverse" to spin counter clock wise on an Olds. I think Chebbies are clockwise but not sure.

cutlassefi

Oil galley plugs are in? Did you use stock main bolts or ARP studs? Did they clearance the pump if you used ARP's?

bluecab

Found the issue with the oil pressure.

Because we had to reduce the base circle of the camshaft to keep the oil band of the roller lifters in the lifter bore at maximum lift, now when the lifters are down on the base circle, the flats that ride in the dogbones are exposing the oil ports in the bores..

Is there such a thing as a .921 roller lifter that uses a link bar? that seems like the easiest way other than sleeving the lifter bores for a different size lifter.

Suggestions welcome....

harascho

I can feel with you David.. Those little setbacks all the time. Hope you can get that one sorted out.
As far as my side is the engine is together and in the Toro again. Mark did a great job with choosing the pistons and cam. It runs very very good. That exhaust note is nothing compared to the car it was before..

Harald

bluecab

Well, I have abandoned the roller cam idea as there was no way this particular block casting was going to accept the roller lifters.
YMMV, but I would suggest anyone who gets the urge to attempt this conversion
investigate ALL of the clearances thoroughly prior to investing in the parts required.
I have a new flat tappet cam and lifters to drop off at the machine shop, so hopefully when I get back out to the garage this winter I will move on to the re-assembly phase!

DRoebuck

David,


I just found your thread tonight (Dec. 4 2015) but I think it is very interesting. I know almost nothing about auto mechanics and I know only a little more about digital photos... but I know that if you have fairly recent version of Microsoft Windows on your computer, you can simply right-click on an image/photo file's icon and select Rotate Left or Rotate Right and it will rotate your picture (permanently) 90 degrees. I hope that helps you with posting future pictures.


- Dennis Roebuck

bluecab

Dennis, Thanks, but I'm on a mac platform. Could be an issue with the hosting platform (TinyPic)

I did get the gas tank installed on Monday.

I've finally finished all my boat work for the season, so it's time to start back up in the garage.

I hope not to spend too many days this winter moving snow around and more putting the Toro back together!

TripDeuces

David, where did you dyno your engine? If it's close by I might be interested.

bluecab

Well, it's a nice warm winter here in Massachusetts:62* on the first of February.

The engine shop called Thursday to say they had put the flat tappet cam and lifters in the motor and had run it in on their stand.

I'll go down tomorrow to see it fire up, break down the test stand and bring it home.

Photos and maybe video to come!

bluecab

It runs!

View My Video

TripDeuces

Sounding good!

bluecab

Dropped it in today. No more birthdays at the machine shop!

TripDeuces

Makes me miss my 70. Great job

kanotix

good job keep going !

timb

thanks for taking the time to write this over the years .i just bought one and it is going to need about the same things done.looks like it will be a long road.keep up the good work .what cam did you end up with?sounds good.

bluecab

I decided that this was a good moment to hang the exhaust system. It's a 2 1/2" stainless setup that I bought last summer and had I known it then I could have put it together long ago.
My usual MO is to hang exhausts from front to back, but when I tried that with this one I quickly found out that does not work on the Toronado with its big center muffler that tucked up under the back seat and ahead of the fuel tank.
On my first try I also discovered that the system was to wide to fit up between the frame rails, so down it came. Time for a more measured approach.
My apologies for the photo orientation. There is something going on between Tinypic and the iPhone and my MAC that makes them look fine until they post to Tinypic...


Here is the system laid out, minus the drops from the manifolds


I took 1/2 inch off each of these 90*bends to narrow the assembly enough to get it to fit in between the frame rails (not really frame rails, the back of the toro is an early uni-body assembly, but you get the idea)

Since I'm working solo, I made up a little jig to put on the jack so I could lift the muffler into place while I put the hangers on.

The hangers will hold the muffler in place with no pipes attached as they slip onto the stubs on either side of the muffler.

I used a pair of bungee cords to hold the 90* bends into the muffler wlile I rotated the muffler into what I hope is the correct orientation.

next the pipes that run forward with the 90* bend go into the muffler and the assembly gets lifted and rotated up into the cavity where the muffler will be.

Then the intermediate pipes can be fitted. I imagine I will have to take the pipes off of the manifolds to put the rest of it together and I have not fitted the rearmost pipes yet. Glad to have some extra jack stands around and I wonder if this would have been easier up on the lift, but no front wheels yet so no way to get it there!