As most of you know, I completed a frame off restoration on a 1970 Cutlass W-31 in 2021 and posted every step of the restoration on my build thread on Classic Olds (in fact, it's the most viewed thread in the restoration section of this forum and can be accessed https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ration-126116/).

The burn out from the W-31 restoration was very real and as a result I swore off serious car-related projects for the subsequent three years.

Fast forward to October of 2024 when a 1970 442 appeared for sale on a Facebook Oldsmobile group. The car stood out as it was painted white, with a white interior, and red stripes. As most are aware, red stripes are rather unique and not often seen compared to say white or black stripes. What else stood out was the fact that this was a stick car with a factory W-25 hood and sport mirrors. After careful negotiations, I struck a deal with the second owner's son who inherited the car after his father's passing.

The 442 was delivered from Akron, Ohio to my garage outside Chicago late on the evening of October 27th. Included with the car was an original broadcast card (likely pulled from the backseat based on condition), the Protect-O-Plate with the original owner's name and address, a receipt for tires dating back to 1992, the factory decklid showing the white and original red striping with decals still intact, and the original factory GM keys to the car. Since it was delivered to my shop late that evening, I parked it and unloaded the factory decklid in to my shop.

The car is about 85% original. The 442 sports an older garage quality lacquer repaint in an incorrect white with vinyl red stripes. The paint is cracking and I suspect it's masking a little bit of filler on the RH lower fender. The metal, from what I can tell, is solid otherwise. My understanding is that the 442 was parked by the original owner in the 1980's after the engine seized and was subsequently sold to owner #2 who performed a subpar "clean up" of the car which included the paint. Additionally, it included a vacuum booster to support an added W-30 camshaft along with aftermarket gauges, 71/72 door handle pulls, tach, etc.

I'll use this thread to update the work I'm performing. This will not be another NOS-only restoration as my sanity cannot support that effort again! Instead, this will be a light version of a frame on restoration of a very clean and original 442. Since I've owned the car, I have started tearing it down and have discovered another broadcast card within the passenger bucket seat back. The interior is 100% original and the plan is to simply deep clean and detail all the parts and reinstall them just as the factory did in October of 1969.

Stay tuned...

Car was built first week of October which is when the W-25 hood production was in full flight.




The 442 was purchased new from Remlinger Oldsmobile Cadillac in Massillon, Ohio. This car stayed within a 20 mile radius its entire life. Mr. Ronald Hartman purchased the car new. I've spent a decent amount of time looking for him, and thanks to local Massillon, OH FB group I was able to locate him.

 

This was taken outside of my shop the night the car was delivered. The chrome on the front bumper is surprisingly nice for an original piece.



Owner #2 passed this picture along to me. It was taken after a low quality repaint where they sprayed the wheels white. This picture is likely late 80's or early 90's.



This was taken the night the car was delivered.



Original ignition key.



The interior is relatively clean and original. A previous owner installed the door pulls along with a 71/72 AM FM stereo. During my tear down, I did not find a blue rear speaker wire nor did I find the padding that would have covered a blue wire on the floor pan so I can confidently conclude that this car came with an AM radio and both the AM FM radio as well as the 8-track player were added to the car. This was not a factory rear speaker 442. Additionally, I did find the original cardboard material package tray still in place just wrapped in a modern vinyl which supports no rear speaker.



Original deck lid supporting the red stripe. I am going to hold on to this piece and keep it as garage art. A previous owner also added a rear spoiler as this is a 10A car and the spoiler wasn't available until January 1970. The car will go back to a non-spoiler decklid.



Original decals still in place. The posi decal is gone, however, you can still see its outline at 12 o'clock.



This car was sold new at Remlinger Olds in Massillon. For those familiar with Olds dealer race cars, Remlinger is well known for their work with Ram Rods (Tweed) along with other Olds race cars.

 

Interesting! Akron is where I was born & grew up. I knew many of the Old's running around up there in the 80's & 90's - Thats awesome you've got a pair '70's now!

 

Very nice looking car and I can't wait to see more pics. Is the wing original also? I know they get a lot of hate (I don't understand why) but original or not, it looks perfect on that car.

 

It is not original to the car. This was a 10A build and the spoiler didn't appear until 01A. Someone added it down the line. I'll add it back to the factory decklid and keep it as garage art.

 

This is a factory powered brake car. For some reason, the brake pedal seems to either be sitting lower than it should or the clutch pedal is sitting too high. I checked the clutch bumper and it's there but really skinny.



Someone attempted an amateur restoration under the hood. They painted the intake to look like a W-455 intake. The OAI adaptor was unfortunately butchered and has since been sold. I have sourced a date coded correct 7040253 carb that my friend in Michigan is rebuilding.





The car has a TON of rust proofing. In talking with locals, a shop specialized in the rubberized coating as long as you brought it to them within the first 100 miles. The metal on the underside is VERY clean when flaking some of it away. The plan right now is to have the underside dry iced locally similarly to what I had done on my survivor Rallye 350.



The car has the factory 3.42 posi rear end. The rear shocks have been replaced. The fronts are still the 1969 date coded spirals. If you're looking for date coded front spiral shocks, please send me a PM as I would like to sell them.



Close up of the underside. This will clean up with the dry ice blasting.



Factory trunk painting.



Previous owner hacked together brackets for the shroud.



Considering this is an Ohio car with 69k original miles, this is relatively clean. Other than a replaced brake line, everything else appears to be factory including the date coded rotor.



This picture was taken after cutting and polishing the paint. It came out looking better, however, the paint is still cracking and the stripes are way off. The previous owner left the outer red portion of the hood stripes and masked the main inner part of the stripe for a repaint.

 

Vintage drag racing decal affixed to the LH 1/4 glass.



After the paint correction, you can still see the cracking of the lacquer.



Inside of the hood. Overall, not terrible. I've corrected the hardware as this didn't appear to be the factory fasteners.



I had the factory SS2 wheels blasted and opted to prime and paint them myself. There's a really good match in a spray bomb from Rustoleum in their metallic line that is a really good match.





Factory trims rings were professionally polished. I had Fusick lugs that I didn't use from a prior restoration that I used here along with Thronton center caps. I like their center caps as they have the correct ribbed and raised red rocket. The Polyglas tires are from Rusty and I used the correct length stems along with aftermarket caps. The wheel moldings were professionally polished and the correct panhead stainless screws were used.



I had a spare set of NOS hood tooth emblems from a prior project that I used here.



The factory base has a broken spot weld on the portion that goes in to the large vent tube. I'm in the process of blasting the entire base so it can be welded.



This is after a thorough cleaning of the trunk. I removed the aftermarket rear speaker, removed and detailed the side markers. This consisted of blasting and repainting the retainers, Evaporust of the nuts, and polish to the plastic lens and supporting chrome. The trunk mat is from ILT. I sourced an original spare Polyglas for the spare and used one of the original center caps from the car.

The trunk light mechanicals are original but with a swapped lens that required disassembly of both trunk lights and reassembly with the non-cracked plastic lens.



Dead critter found under the bottom of the backseat.



Since this is a stick car, the console lens here should be blacked out. It isn't. I'm not sure if this is the original console to the car, however, I have no reason to believe that it has been replaced. There were no signs of wiring which supports this being a stick console. Additionally, there wasn't a sign of a light switch screwed in to the console.



Factory front console brackets.



After lightly blasting off 3-4 coats of black spray paint, the date code stamping started to appear on the base. Shift 2, 260th day of 1969.



The amount of rust proofing inside the quarter panels and doors is next level.





Would like the thoughts from this group. Someone drilled two round holes in the floorboard / firewall. My guess is an aftermarket AC unit? There are a ton of holes drilled on the underside of the metal dash beyond just what is there for the tape deck (which we've discussed is not original to the car).

 

Last dump of photos as part of catch up...

I removed the door handles, sports mirrors, and door locks. Here you can see the heavy coating of rust proofing. It's messy and tacky.



In the process of removing everything in the door jamb for repaint.



Matching date codes on the doors. 39th week.



LH side of the car. Fuzzies removed as well as handle, mirror, and lock.



Debating whether or not I want to remove the dash at this point. I'm leaning towards pulling it out of the car.



In talking with the locals, this is where the rust proofing was performed when the car was new.



This was the "aftermarket" front speaker that was installed in the car. It's junk and will go in the garbage.



Sourced an original speaker and bracket to replace this junk.



Compliments to Brad Barrie for recreating an original dealership frame for me. We were fortunate to connect with someone that was tied to the dealer back in the 60's and he confirmed the colors of the frame.



Restored original boot with #7.





As I pull trim parts off the car, I give it a deep clean and polish. The part goes back in to the plastic bag wrapped in paper towel for when it needs to go back on the car. I try to keep the parts separated in to plastic shoe boxes for the section of the car (trunk, interior, engine, etc. then separated by LH and RH side).



Another strange and odd catch. This should have a different vent diffuser since this is a console car. The one installed on the car today is for a non-console. I know this car came with a console because I can see the brackets on the floor with correct factory sealer. Why someone would change that diffuser is a mystery to me.

 

Cool shots and neat project!
I have almost the exact same problem with my original air cleaner in that the adapter to the heat stove pipe broke off.
Check that you ThermAC still holds vacuum. This is a good time to replace it while your doing the other repair.

 

Congrats on the new project.Looks like a fun time
I am a little bit jealous
Alain 1970 442 4spd factory A/C

 

The 442 is scheduled to head to Ron at Dry Ice Autos in Cary, IL. He did my survivor Rallye 350 a few years back and it turned out great. He has done W-30s for a few members on CO as well. He has an old barn with a lift where he spends a few days pumping hundreds of pounds of dry ice against the underside of the car. In this particular instance, I'm optimistic that the undercoating on the car has truly been there since almost day 1 and that the metal underneath is clean.

Here's a video of a '70 442 W-30 that Ron completed. There's also a link to the work he did on my Rallye 350.

 

The lower radiator mount brackets in the rad support might also give you some clues on the original cooling/rad setup. You have a factory 3 row rad top plate on there now. The lower saddle brackets were smaller/shorter (front to rear) on a 3 row rad car VS. a 4 row rad car. I'm assuming the rad support is original to the car as well.

3.91's required the 4 row rad setup. Maybe yours was/is a HD 3 row cooling setup.

The factory wouldn't have stopped production for something like the lack of a "console style" vent diffuser. Maybe they ran out and put the non-console style on there.

 

Let me grab a few pictures of the lower saddle brackets. The setup now is a bit of a Frankenstein with the plastic shroud, 3-core top plate, incorrect '69 big block water pump, and who knows what pulleys. I procured a correct 3-core radiator with the FE tag still attached for a steal so hoping that is what this car would have been delivered from the factory with.

 

I had some experience w/a '70 W30 motor supposedly pulled from the wrecked car in the 1971 time frame.

That motor had the '69 HD water pump on it.....last three numbers on the pump were something like 269 possibly...don't remember the '69 HD pump number off hand right now.

I have no idea what the build date on the '70 W30 was that the motor came out of and I didn't pay any attention to date codes, etc on the motor when I was doing some work on the motor a few years back.

ADD: Just perused Section 11 of the '70 PIM...

Your car is likely a "VO2" car....HD 2" core rad which would be a 3 row (FE code on the chart in the manual). HD 4 row is a 2.70" core.

Manual indicates that VO2 is mandatory w/3.42 gears and no AC or no Y72 option.

 

The water pump that is on the car is a 398681 which I believe is for a '68 / '69 Olds 400 or 455 without AC. I have no clue if it's the original pump though I doubt it.

I believe the V02 option would net the FE "HD" 3-core radiator and a 3-core top plate WITH the built in metal shroud, correct? If true, I have the wrong everything LOL. I need to source the correct 3-core top plate.

Again, the tabs on core support are throwing me for a loop. A friend felt like the tabs for the shroud didn't look factory.

I guess at this point it'll come down to an inspection on the lower cradles for the radiator and assessment of the pulleys.



6 blade fan and fan clutch BUT looks like an excessive amount of washers / spacers. Maybe a deficit of the water pump?



Perhaps a KN pulley?

 

Sounds like the correct water pump for the 3-core is 404584.

 

You mentioned the fan shroud tabs may not look correct or something to that effect....

Here are two pics of a Olds lower rad fan shroud tab ('70-72 at least). Can't make a perfect comparison to what you show in one of your pics above b/c we can't see the WHOLE tab on your car/pic.

Depending on how you look at your pic it appears yours MIGHT be different. I have 4 '70 rad supports here I looked at - one has no tabs (never did) and the other 3 all have tabs on them that look exactly like the tab I show in the 2 pics below.

It's not the PLACEMENT of the tab in your pic that looks potentially different....it's the shape (but can't see your whole tab) and MAYBE the thickness of the tab on yours. Will be interesting to see what you might find w/the rad removed from the car.

VO2 is a Heavy Duty RADIATOR.....I think that's different from Option Y72 which is a HD COOLING SYSTEM. I'm guessing that the VO2 is a radiator only deal and to get the HD water pump you had to order Y72.

I'll measure the lower rad outlet on a FE rad I have for one of my cars as well as the lower outlet on the 4 row radiator from a HD cooling car. I think the lower rad hoses are different from each other on each of those....and the lower rad hose outlet on the VO2 rad is smaller than the Y72 4 row radiator lower outlet.

 

Sorry - forgot to post the two pics...they are below.

I also measured the lower radiator connection/outlet on the two radiators....they are both the same size (3 row FE rad and the '70 4 row rad) and what I'll call the "large" outlets. The O.D. on both lower outlets is 1-13/16".

I was wrong on thinking the two outlets were a different size.

 

Also - may be an apples and oranges comparison but my '70 W31 4 spd is a original 3.42 car and came w/a 3 row radiator and support (rad was a replacement - not the original Olds FE rad), a non fan shroud top plate and a 6 blade fan w/what I think is the original fan clutch ( Eaton fan clutch ink stamped "OU"). H20 pump had been replaced by some prior owner as well so no help on that part.

The car also came w/two row crank and H2O pump pulleys - KJ and KM.

Yet another potential "mystery"....the pulleys. The PIM indicates 3 ROW pulley use-age (KC and KF) when the car had "Heavy Duty Generator and Engine Cooling" (it doesn't show any option codes on those PIM pages (Section 6 - pages for pulleys, etc)).

 

That one pic showing your fan and clutch on the H20 pump....definitely odd. The "setup" on a original clutch fan for 1970 would have only used STUDS in the water pump hub to mount the fan clutch....not the bolts/washers and that cool looking thin alum spacer shown on yours. That all may have just been an attempt of a prior owner to "optimize" the fan placement in the shroud...maybe b/c of a incorrect height/length water pump being on the motor.

 

Here is what I would like to know.

A ‘70 4-speed 442 would default to a 3.42 and the 3.42 would require the V02 option. What did V02 get you? Just the FE 3-core radiator? If true, then what would have been the default water pump?

And would it be accurate that the 404847 pump would only come with V01 (either V01 or AC option requiring V01).

 

That is what I am thinking. My plan is to run a 4045584 pump, FE 3 core radiator, and a 3 core top plate with the metal shroud built in. Also sounds like it should be a KN pulley, 4 blade fan, and no fan clutch.

 

I have NO idea!! I'm starting to feel more confident on the metal fan shroud/top plate, the FE 3 row rad and the two row pulleys as part of the VO2 package. BUT.....I don't have any good/hard evidence here on the water pump used on VO2 since I don't have a original pump for my W31 motor.

That booklet that lays out the components on various options may give us a clue....maybe it's the "Salesman's Booklet" that lays all that out. It may not show the actual casting number for the water pump but may indicate "heavy duty water pump" or something to that effect.

I just looked through the "supplement" Engine Assembly Manual and there is no info on water pump use-age in there...WTH??

 

Section 6-1, Page 86 of the PIM doesn't seem to be of much help either....this page is titled "1970 350 & 455 cubic inch engine assembly conversion procedures".

They do delineate a "Convert to VO1 by the following:" and specify REMOVING water pump 404655 and INSTALLING water pump 404846. Maybe those two numbers are PART NUMBERS instead of casting numbers? Nowhere on the "conversion" pages is 404847 mentioned...but again, maybe b/c these pages are referring to part numbers.

Can anyone cross reference those numbers (404655 and 404846) to casting numbers on the pumps? Seems odd that the number in the PIM, 404846 is just ONE NUMBER OFF from the known casting number for the '70 HD pump - 404847.

A typo in the PIM???

 

Wondering if the pulley will tell me. If it is a KM pulley, then it should be a 404847 assuming the pulley is original. If it is a KN, then 404584 pump.

It feels like I have 50% of the parts to make the argument for V01 and 50% support V02. I guess anything could have been changed.

 

You may get additional clues if you pull the radiator and get a better look at the lower fan shroud tabs.

 

Another photo dump.

This is the backside of the plastic chrome backing plate for one of the door panels. Not sure what the NAP represents or if these are even originals. They were so trashed they went in the garbage can.



I mentioned in a prior post about the crazy amount of rustproofing. Here is a great example. I had to wear a glove to stick my hand in the door to remove the retainer for the lock.



The seat plastics are beyond brittle and will get tossed. I ordered new ones from Fusick. My plan for the interior is to reuse the original carpet, keep the factory seat covers and door panels, and replace only the plastic chrome door panel backings, seat plastics, bucket seat push buttons, and headrest retainers. Everything else will remain factory original for the interior.



The floor pan had duct tape in really specific spots. When I pulled the tape up, I could see it was put in place to cover tiny holes likely where the rustproofing wand was inserted and sprayed.



Date code for the carpet. September 1969.



This is the spoiler that was on the car when I purchased it. From what I can tell, it's an older repop. The original and NOS spoilers I have had all had two flat head panhead screws on the inside holding the pedestals to the wing itself. This is likely going to become garage art as I'll have the holes welded up on the deck lid that is on there now.



This is the other broadcast pulled from the car. I suspect there may have been a third as I found a shred of another card near the mouse nest. Since this isn't a W-car, I decided to leave this card intact and ringed to the seat as opposed to removing it.



Close up of factory identification marking on the original distributor.



Original jack hook with decal. This was pretty rusty so I opted to sandblast it. I'll repaint with a good spray can match and install a repop decal.



A lot of jars here...



Original alternator. Belt is obviously incorrect.



Power brakes. I believe this is a parts counter master cylinder but the brake booster is an original with a '69 date for '70 and available for sale. My plan is to convert this car to manual brakes.



Additional picture of the fan, fan clutch, spacer, and an excessive amount of washers.

 

Trying to get the car ready for dry ice blasting in the next 2-3 weeks. A local friend is going to let me borrow a set of "junk" wheels and tires so I can avoid making a mess of the restored wheels and Polyglas. Once the wheels are swapped, it's just a matter of pulling the front and rear bumpers off the car so the blaster can get at those areas as well as the backside of each bumper.

With regards to prepping for paint, I used an aluminum can opener to gently pry the drip rail stainless off the sides. So far so good with the RH side still to do.

Need to pull the stainless trim around the front windshield as well as the back glass.

Still quite a bit to go before the start of March but getting closer.

 

Just don't toss out that master cylinder lid w/the master...appears to be an original and not easy to find in nice condition.

 

Spent a few minutes today pulling the stainless trim from around the front windshield. It came off relatively easily minus the LH side top corner which took a bit of wrangling. I am going to leave the original windshield even though it has a tiny crack in the upper LH corner. All the stainless trim will go to my metal polisher. Based on the color of the glass seal, I am assuming the trim has previously been removed from the car.





The factory OAI base completely media blasted. It needs a spot weld repair and then it will be powder coated a red to match my red molded OAI adaptor.

 

A few questions in advance of some work I need to do.

Been awhile since I removed the shifter lever. What size feeler gauge do I slide down there and is it on just one side or both sides?

When checking the compression on all 8 cylinders, is it best to remove all the spark plugs or one at a time when testing? Is it better to just remove the coil wire or also the hose going in to the fuel pump as well?

 

Installed a spare set of Keystones and BFGs so the restored wheels don’t become a mess at the dry ice blaster. The car is set to go tomorrow providing I can get a seat installed and battery charged today.

Started pulling the front end a part last night. Pics and details below.

I started flaking the repaint off a bit and discovered the original red stripes are still on the car. I knew the "prep work" was poor but this is next level lol.



More original red stripe.



The hood stainless is a royal pain trying to get off. I have tried tapping it with a block of wood but it's seized on there pretty good. I will keep working at it.





I actually really dig these wheels. Cool Day 2 vibe. Looks like Cragar makes them but only in a 15".



RH side down. I removed all the hardware I could from the front side with the exception of the grille bolt between the headlight housing which goes to the core support. I stuck my electric ratchet inside the core support to remove the four screws for the plastic housing as well as the four bolts for the metal heading housing which gave me enough real estate to get the last bolt from the front. It's the only way to remove with the bumper still attached.



The RH headlight housing is a mess and will be replaced. Someone installed an aftermarket spring with a threaded bolt and nut.



More junk.



Factory 442 grilles in really nice condition! The undercoating must have made its way on to the plastic. My plan is to scuff with a Scotch Brite pad and respray them.







Looks like some red and white overspray maybe from a wet sand at one point. It's on both sides of the car.



Do these look like factory 3-core cradles?



Interesting bumper tag. Guessing this was the plater that redid this bumper at some point. I researched the company and it was based out of Toledo, OH and apparently had contracts with the OEMs.





I'll give the previous owner a little credit here. When he reinstalled the front end, he was careful to add washers to prevent cracking the plastics. I'll toss the washers but at least he was being cautious which I respect.



The factory glass is still in the front but unfortunately cracked. I am going to have new glass installed...just need to decide when to do it.



The glass was shifted pretty far over to the LH side. In fact, so far over that I cannot remove the trim clips!

 

Spent another 3 hours at the garage last night. Managed to remove all the stainless trim around the rear glass, the large cowl trim, the wipers, both bumpers, some junk wiring under the dash, the vacuum pump by the battery, and the LH side of the front end.

As you can see with this picture, by loosening up the 8 rear bolts, I was able to access the one bolt holding the grille to the core support. These bolts were longer than I remember.



This wiring cracked me up a little bit. It was just wrapped in tape hanging off the positive battery cable.



The rear bumper has a black coating on the backside. Not sure if someone tried painting it or what.



Front bumper was easy enough to remove. I ended up putting a large wrench in through the frame to keep the bolt from spinning. I am going to leave all the brackets attached and just have the dry ice blaster go over the brackets and housings. Since this is a driver project, no sense in blasting and painting parts on the frame / chassis.



Relatively clean considering it's an Ohio car.





The dry ice blasting should clean off the white overspray.





Going to sell the gauges.



The owner ran a W-30 cam and had issues with the power brakes so he installed a vacuum pump by the battery. This pump will be listed for sale.



I'm sure I will get pushback on this, but I am going to install a set of red inner fenders from The Parts Place. I know it's wrong, but I like the way the red will look against the white.



Is this the correct sized washer for the support brackets?



Or is this the correct sized washer...?

 

The larger washer is the correct one.

 

Pulled the engine and trans last night. Couldn't get the shifter lever out from the shifter mechanism so left it on and luckily we had enough room with the car being up on the Race Ramps.

The starter is not the original. In fact, it is too big to even drop it! When I disengaged the starter from the flywheel and pulled it out it bumped up against the frame. Need to source the correct starter.

Coil is original. One of the rubber fuel hoses is an original with the '69 stamping.

Incorrect water pump.

First time tearing down a stick car. Learned a few things along the way! The PIM is going to be my friend during reassembly.

The dry ice blaster next week will have the ability to get in the cradle at firewall really well with the engine out. The exhaust is laying on the floor of the garage but needs to be cut since the previous owner welded it all together. The trumpets are original; one of them actually has a penny sized hole from rot.

For whatever reason, the front brake lines (and the rear) have been replaced. I'm installing an ILT MC and removing the brake booster along with new OE steel lines up front.

 

Long overdue for an update!

Turns out the lower shroud tabs were custom fabricated by a previous owner and bolted to the lower portion of the core support. With the new direction of the project, I am going with the following setup: 3 core top plate with "built in" shroud portion, 404847 water pump, KN and KM pulleys, 6-blade fan, and fan clutch. Turns out the car had an incorrect water pump, incorrect radiator, a goofy spacer which was obviously incorrect, etc.

 

Where to start...a lot has changed relative to the scope of this project (isn't that ALWAYS the case?!).

What started out as a quick clean up project has now turned in to a frame on restoration.

I'll post some additional pictures and videos of the tear down, dry ice blasting, etc.

I dropped the car off at a local paint shop on 3/14/25.

 

The dry ice blasting was done early March. The blaster ran close to 2,000 lbs of dry ice against the car to remove all the undercoating / rustproofing. The end result shows the factory black paint, white overspray, runs, etc.

I uploaded three videos to YouTube that shows how it works as well as the end results.




In my personal opinion, this is a great way to go if you are not interested in going all the way with a frame off restoration.

 

Beautiful configuration. Can't wait to see it in person.

 

Prior to getting the car loaded up for the trailer to the dry ice shop I was scrambling to remove the exhaust since someone welded all of it together. Some of the pipes were original so the cutting wheel went through them like a hot knife through butter!







The before shots are pretty gnarly!



Hard to believe all of this came off from the dry ice! I bet there was 50+ pounds of rustproofing on the underside alone.



This is one of my favorite pictures because it shows how good this stuff is against the crud on the tank. We started to see the blue stamping on the tank metal with minimal effort.