1968 442 Restore

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Old Oct 2, 2014 | 10:55 AM
  #41  
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Ya... that seems to be the case.. I thought maybe there was some trick. There kinda a spring steel and designed to hold the plate on and slide on easy but not back off.. I tried flexing them with a pliers.. but that didnt seem to work.. I guess my plates are probably going to have to be replaced anyway so Probably will just break them. Will ponder this dilemma some more.. Let you know if I find a solution.
Old Oct 2, 2014 | 10:56 AM
  #42  
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@wr1970.. OH.. i thought you said you had a parts car as well.. Where are you located..anywhere near Minneapolis MN ?
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:19 AM
  #43  
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Hi guys.. not much new .. its getting colder out so trying to get all the parts off the car i can and take them into the basement so i can work on them there, and send stuff off that i need to but going to try to do most of the restore work myself.. I have more time then money to throw around.. so that is the plan anyway..

For reference, here is a pic of the wiring of the back of the rally Pac Gauges..
My tach never worked.. I think i wire was missing.. you can see in the pic there is a push on tab.. nothing connected.. hmm.. Also I found a number of disconnected wires.. in the one pic you can see RED and WHITE to a black connector to PURPLE and WHITE.. i think this is for the rear window blower.. not sure.. Also I found a Blue wire not going to anything.. on either end.. but it was mounted to the fount of the car and was under all the padding and stuff so I assume it was factory.. Not sure what that was.. maybe also related to the blower. idk.. ill figure it out..
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:24 AM
  #44  
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I have some cracking on the dash.. I am hoping this can be repaired vs having to redo the whole dash. Any one have any experience repairing cracks like this ? I was looking on the net and found some products that might do it.. Also I have a local car upholstery place that i was told has some guy that does dashes.. so might take it to them and see what they say.. Finally found this number on the A pillar..from what i can tell doesn't mean much.. ??
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 09:29 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by shepo1
I have some cracking on the dash.. I am hoping this can be repaired vs having to redo the whole dash. Any one have any experience repairing cracks like this ? I was looking on the net and found some products that might do it.. Also I have a local car upholstery place that i was told has some guy that does dashes.. so might take it to them and see what they say.. Finally found this number on the A pillar..from what i can tell doesn't mean much.. ??

Redoing a dash is upwards of $1000. You can probably find a decent used non A/C dash pad for less than $200. I have one with three dimples in it for $150.


We're fairly sure that A pillar number (W number) is the production week of the sheet metal. What's the build date of your car?
Old Oct 14, 2014 | 01:37 PM
  #46  
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Not sure of the production date. I had a pic of the cowl tag.. but can find it at the moment..

On the dash... 200 sounds better then 1K.. lol.. maybe if there that inexpensive..i will try to fix mine.. worst case is I mess it up and find another... Send me a pic of the one you have for sale.. !!
Thanks
Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:20 AM
  #47  
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Hi guys.. had a bit more time to keep pulling things apart. I wanted to get the headliner out and headliner trim off and such. Also the Window seals that mounted to the top of the car, and window seal trim. . I wasn't sure how to get this all apart and didn't want to damage things i shouldn't. So I will post some pics of what I found and maybe it can help some one in the same boat down the road.

First set of pics is what I call the window seal trim.. The actual rubber part of the seal is glued into the trim part.. so after i figured that out, just got underneath it with a screwdriver and worked it out. what was left was the metal seal trim bracket ( or that's what I call it) It is held to the car with screws, and also some type of adhesive. Anyway first and second pic show the trim bracket and screws, then just carefully get under it and pry it away from car body. Once that was removed i could get better access to see how the interior aluminum headliner trim piece was installed. You can see in the pics it is just held on to the headliner bracket by pushing it on.. From the outside in.. So to remove it.. I just pulled from the inside of the car outward.. I started at the rear and worked forward.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #48  
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The clips come off the same way.. they just take a little more effort to slide off vs the trim piece its self, but they just slide off. You can see better how the trim clip is attached to the trim and such in the one pic. After that was off i was going to try to remove the sail panel. You can see there is a plastic trim the surrounds the window and also holds part of the sail panel in place. I started to remove the sail panel and found that there is a slide on clip in the middle of it.. I thought it was a push in type body clip.. so i was prying on it with a long screw driver, it came apart some how, and I didnt damage it.. but this was not the right way to do it.. I should have Removed the plastic trim first and then I could have easily just slid the sail panel down and out.. BUT to remove the plastic trim with out damaging it, I think i will need to remove the window. There is a metal headliner bracket that surrounds the window that the headliner material is glued to, and also is what this plastic trim mounts to.. So to get at it easily, the window needs to come out.. So instead it looked closer at the front window area.. It as well has the same plastic trim.. but i cut away the headliner so I could see what I was dealing with. ( thus how I leaned about how to do the rear) Thinking about it.. possibly I can remove the plastic trim with out pulling the window as well. I can probably just do what I did at the front and cut the headliner material and then just remove the metal brackets with the trim attached and separate them outside the car.
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Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:36 AM
  #49  
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Here are some shots of the front headliner bracket and trim piece. I just took a knife and cut away the old headliner as I wasn't going to save it anyway so I didn't care. What I found was 2 brackets, one on each side of where the rear view mirror mounts, held in by 4 screws. The headliner material attaches to these brackets as does the plastic trim piece. Here is where i learned that to remove this plastic trim, with out damage might be easiest to have the window out. ( If you were trying to save the old headliner material, if not just cut it away and take the brackets out with the trim attached and separate out side the car like i did.) It will give you access to the top side and you can easily pull it off the bracket.. But here are some pics.
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Last edited by shepo1; Oct 20, 2014 at 10:49 AM.
Old Oct 20, 2014 | 10:37 AM
  #50  
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One more pic for anyone looking for part numbers or codes stamped in parts.. I found this on the headliner brackets..
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Last edited by shepo1; Oct 20, 2014 at 10:52 AM.
Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:10 AM
  #51  
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Hi guys.. been a while.. finally got all the parts off the car body doors, trim ect. Going to take it all into the basement for winter to work on down there restoring what I can. Will tackle car body in spring. It is really amazing how bad the rust really is. At first glance floor pan didnt look to bad.. I was bored the other day and started poking around with a screw driver and wow.. I guess some floor pans are in order.. LOL. While there are some good spots..I think the best way will be to replace the whole thing.. Also my inner rockers are pretty bad, so was thinking just go for the whole enchilada.. I saw some place floor pan with braces and inner and outer rockers as a one piece deal.. I woudl think that would be the easiest way to go vs seperating it all ( inner and outer rockers, and floor pan.. ect and repairing and putting it all back together? idk.. I have seen some threads were guys have done that .. I guess I will wait to see after i start really pulling it apart.. anyway.. Here are some pics.. if nothing else to give the rest of you with cars in much better shape something to laugh at.. lol.. Take care.
Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:14 AM
  #52  
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Floor pans are rusted thru right along the edge were they meet the floor braces. Braces look to be ok.. except on the Driver side.. But I suppose that could be fixed..I think i saw someplace patches for the ends of the braces.
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:18 AM
  #53  
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Drivers side of car is far worse then passenger.. Here you can see thru pan and rusted out inner rocker to outer rocker.. Amazing how much sand and junk is inside there.. LOL. Passenger side foor pans also show same rust spots right along the edge of the floor braces.. but not as bad as driver side.
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:22 AM
  #54  
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Your definitely going to need the floor braces. Once you get it off the frame you'll probably find you need to rebuild the front cowl mounts as well as rebuild the mount locations in the frame
Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #55  
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found some bad spots on drive side door area.. ..started with just one little rust hole.. but after poking around.. yuck... THe Good news.. Passenger side is good.. LOL..

Doors are in good shape.. Trunk and hood good.. roof good.. so most damage is in the floor and trunk.. i suppose that is normal..oh well.

well.. thats probably it for the body till spring.. will post pics of restore of interior parts and such as i get to it.. First have to set up a work area in basement..
take care
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:35 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by allyolds68
Your definitely going to need the floor braces. Once you get it off the frame you'll probably find you need to rebuild the front cowl mounts as well as rebuild the mount locations in the frame
Ya.. probably.. I think the whole pan assembly is the way to go.. I think it costs more to buy the individual parts and assemble it.. will have to add it up.
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