1967 Oldsmobile
#1
1967 Oldsmobile
Hello all. I recently picked up my first Oldsmobile, a 1967 barn find. I am working on getting it up and running but could use all the input and wisdom you Oldsmobile fanatics and dish out.
Last edited by BigShep; October 15th, 2024 at 02:04 PM.
#3
Looks like someone installed go-fast parts on that thing. Headers, aluminum intake manifold, Holley carburetor(?), and chrome bling valve covers and alternator bracket.
Wait a minute... squared off valve covers with 4 bolts - is that a Chevrolet engine?
Wait a minute... squared off valve covers with 4 bolts - is that a Chevrolet engine?
Last edited by Fun71; October 15th, 2024 at 02:16 PM.
#4
You are correct, Per my understanding it is a 400 small block.
#7
Depends on what you plan is, restore back to original, many directions you can go with this car.
#8
I checked the gas tank and it was rotted. So I popped that off this past weekend. Replace it with a new one and a new sending unit. It didn't have a key so I replaced the ignition switch. Now I have to get power to her. All my batteries are dead so those are charging now.
I just need to get power to it and see if it will turn over.
My plans are just to get it running and driving. Nothing special at the moment. I do know the brakes are not working so I need to get those worked on but for now just running.
I just need to get power to it and see if it will turn over.
My plans are just to get it running and driving. Nothing special at the moment. I do know the brakes are not working so I need to get those worked on but for now just running.
#9
I'd rather see a 65-67 Olds 400 in there, or even a 350 or 403 small block Olds, but you need to figure out exactly what SBC and transmission you have. The 2-speed Jetaway will not bolt to a Chevrolet block, so it's likely someone transplanted a Powerglide into it.
SBC 400 is not one of my favorite engines. It's a smog era engine that has the cubic inches to move an early 70s full-size Chevy, but they have siamesed bores and Chevrolet engine foundry often had problems with core shift. Meaning the engine casting sometimes had thin cylinder walls.
You're usually OK long as it hasn't been bored. .030 over will usually run hotter than I like, and boring one .060 is running a risk of boring into what little water jacket they have.
Stick with us. We'll get the 67 going.
SBC 400 is not one of my favorite engines. It's a smog era engine that has the cubic inches to move an early 70s full-size Chevy, but they have siamesed bores and Chevrolet engine foundry often had problems with core shift. Meaning the engine casting sometimes had thin cylinder walls.
You're usually OK long as it hasn't been bored. .030 over will usually run hotter than I like, and boring one .060 is running a risk of boring into what little water jacket they have.
Stick with us. We'll get the 67 going.
#10
I'd rather see a 65-67 Olds 400 in there, or even a 350 or 403 small block Olds, but you need to figure out exactly what SBC and transmission you have. The 2-speed Jetaway will not bolt to a Chevrolet block, so it's likely someone transplanted a Powerglide into it.
SBC 400 is not one of my favorite engines. It's a smog era engine that has the cubic inches to move an early 70s full-size Chevy, but they have siamesed bores and Chevrolet engine foundry often had problems with core shift. Meaning the engine casting sometimes had thin cylinder walls.
You're usually OK long as it hasn't been bored. .030 over will usually run hotter than I like, and boring one .060 is running a risk of boring into what little water jacket they have.
Stick with us. We'll get the 67 going.
SBC 400 is not one of my favorite engines. It's a smog era engine that has the cubic inches to move an early 70s full-size Chevy, but they have siamesed bores and Chevrolet engine foundry often had problems with core shift. Meaning the engine casting sometimes had thin cylinder walls.
You're usually OK long as it hasn't been bored. .030 over will usually run hotter than I like, and boring one .060 is running a risk of boring into what little water jacket they have.
Stick with us. We'll get the 67 going.
Great input. Thanks! Hopefully I can get up under it and get an idea of what trans is in it soon.
#11
No fire
So I got out this morning and worked on the olds but it is not firing. Put a battery in, charged, new ignition switch but Nothing. It just isn't turning over, no power at all, no lights, no nothing. More to follow as I get it.
Last edited by BigShep; Yesterday at 03:40 PM.
#12
If I may suggest- get a "momentary switch"- it's a push button switch you can pick up at the hardware store. Push it to close the switch, release and it opens again. Get some 12g wire, and a couple alligator clips. Wire the switch to the alli clips, then clip one to the "+" terminal on your solenoid and the other to the "+" battery terminal. Now you can crank the motor with your head under the hood, instead of having to do it from the drivers seat. Then get a spark tester- it looks like a spark plug, and you can crank the motor with your new starter switch (the key needs to be in the "on" position) and hold the spark tester close to the exhaust manifold and see if you have spark. If not, check your coil and your points.
I used the plastic box the switch came in and some duct tape to make a grip. Big clip goes to the battery, small clip to the little "+" connection on the solenoid- the little one, not the battery lead. Wires need to be long enough, of course...
I used the plastic box the switch came in and some duct tape to make a grip. Big clip goes to the battery, small clip to the little "+" connection on the solenoid- the little one, not the battery lead. Wires need to be long enough, of course...
#14
#18
One plus to Mr Slithers living in it, is there probably weren't any mice. Mouse damaged wiring was first thing I thought about given the cool old barn the Cutlass was living in.
Will the engine turn over with a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley? I'd shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and let it soak a bit before trying to rotate it.
Olds wiring has a 10 gage wire running from battery + terminal to a junction block and horn relay on the fenderwell. That's the main power feed to the car. If it's not there car won't have any power.
Chevy made that power tap at the starter. You need to see if any of that wiring was changed when the SBC was installed.
#19
Oh **** he'd have to go...😬 Rat snake or not, he'd have to go!
One plus to Mr Slithers living in it, is there probably weren't any mice. Mouse damaged wiring was first thing I thought about given the cool old barn the Cutlass was living in.
Will the engine turn over with a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley? I'd shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and let it soak a bit before trying to rotate it.
Olds wiring has a 10 gage wire running from battery + terminal to a junction block and horn relay on the fenderwell. That's the main power feed to the car. If it's not there car won't have any power.
Chevy made that power tap at the starter. You need to see if any of that wiring was changed when the SBC was installed.
One plus to Mr Slithers living in it, is there probably weren't any mice. Mouse damaged wiring was first thing I thought about given the cool old barn the Cutlass was living in.
Will the engine turn over with a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley? I'd shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and let it soak a bit before trying to rotate it.
Olds wiring has a 10 gage wire running from battery + terminal to a junction block and horn relay on the fenderwell. That's the main power feed to the car. If it's not there car won't have any power.
Chevy made that power tap at the starter. You need to see if any of that wiring was changed when the SBC was installed.
Last edited by BigShep; Today at 11:07 AM.
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