I bought replacement retractor covers and want to know what the trick is to get the buckle through the slot in the cover. This is for a 72 Cutlass.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...1&d=1521729436

 

There is no "trick"....it can't be done that way. Chrome buckle is too wide to fit back through that slot.

 

The covers are installed prior to the installation of the belt to the winder mechanism. You could send them to SnakeOyl in Texas and they can install then to the winder mechanism, however, they might wasn't to charge as a seat belt restoration. Give them a call. 1-800-284-7777

 

I tried to do that too...... won't work. I had to disassemble the retractor, slip the cover on then reassemble the retractor. It looks more difficult than it is, but it will take some trial and error to get the belt return tensioned correctly again.

 

Can you describe the procedure to disassemble the retractor?

 

I saw it on U-Tube.

 

Yeah I tried looking there already. Apparently what you saw is no longer there.

 

I will try. You will want to read thru the instructions all the way before starting.
Place the frame in a vise and bend the side without the round black piece on it away far enough to get the pin out of the hole. Remove the belt roller from the frame. The rewind mechanism will disengage and unwind. There is a metal snap cover around the loop of belt around a plastic oblong cylinder. Remove the snap cover, slide the belt off of the cylinder, run the loose end thru the cover (make sure the cover is oriented correctly) and slide the loop back over the cylinder (make sure the label is facing the inside of the car). Note that one side of the plastic cylinder has ribs on it, that is the side that the clip goes back on to. Carefully remove the black plastic winding mechanism off of the side of the frame. It attaches with 3 very small round pegs that are fairly delicate, I have had luck pushing on them from the belt side of the frame with a small punch or pick. (you will feel them disengage and re-engage when you reassemble)
Now, put the cylinder back in to the frame, and bend the frame back in shape. The end with the slot goes toward the rewind mechanism. Place the open end of the rewind mechanism carefully on to the slot, but don't try to reattach it to the frame yet. I don't recall which way it turns, clockwise or counter cw, but one way will tighten the coil spring inside the winding mechanism, and that is the way you want to turn it. Start rotating the rewind mechanism to roll up the belt, holding it against the frame. You want to put a fair amount of tension on it, but not over tight. It may take you a time or two to get it adjusted with enough tension to pull the belt back in after it is extended. This is the tedious part and the rewind mechanism can come off of the end fairly easily. If it does, just rinse and repeat. Hopefully this all makes sense. Best of luck.
Let me know if you need any more info.

 

Thanks for the details. I managed to get the job done. However, I pushed the pin out with a hammer and punch rather than bend the frame. Getting the belt off the roller was a little tricky but I had a spreading tool that I used to slightly spread the metal snap clip apart so I could slide the notched cylinder and belt loop out. That tool is like a reverse pliers. Now I have to attack the other side .

 

Good job, glad it worked out for you!

 

One thing that is a little scary is working with that plastic spring retainer. These things are about 50 years old and plastic has issues when that old. Mine started showing hairline cracks after I messed with it. I was able to reinforce the cracks with epoxy. Eventually it will fail.

Do they even reproduce those retainers?

 

You can find the retainers. I did mine a few months back. Really no trouble, just be careful when you GENTLY pry up the plastic cap(s) with a THIN implement, working your way around slowly, taking little bites. There are only three nubs that hold the caps in place.