1st off: Thanks for the quick response guiding me to the method of posting in forums beyond the intro section, so I could post this question.

96 LSS 4 door, 3.8 supercharged. Fun, fun. Had "never" ever been thrown back in a seat on acceleration. So far in this car, I've only done it once. Nice! Enough to know its capable of it. (But I digress.) ps. Have also broken my former speed record. In this car, going up hill @ 110mph. Not realizing it until I glanced at the speedometer. "Oh crap"! (No, have not made a habit of owning any high performance vehicles. Generally ultra stable/dependable back and forth to work vehicles. Generally, a pickup. )

Situation: Have replacement rear passenger side door for replacement of existing exterior damaged door on the car when I bought it. Replacement door came with the car when I bought it, but not installed on it. His wife decided she ultimately didn't want the car so I bought it before the door was replaced.

Problem: Door wiring harness "plug" has been cut off the replacement door. I assume the door harness would plug into the cars harness in the car body center door post (passenger side post between the doors).

Questions: How do I remove the body post "edge" trim pieces (1"+ wide pieces) that runs up the post and around the doors, which I assume will then allow access to the other trim piece covering the interior width of the post?
Is that 1" trim piece on the front and back edge of the post just press fit, or are there holding clips that I must "stand on one leg, poke my tongue in my left cheek, and pray, while prying with ... "? "Any" adhesive or connectors holding it on?
Never have been one to rip and tear while mechanic-ing, and not about to start now!
Also, assuming I have that 1" trim at a minimum of "pulled/peeled back far enough", what holds that post cover trim in place and how do I remove it without damage.
Now, assuming that wiring harness plug is indeed in the car body post near where the wires go into it from the door, what are the hoops to jump through to disconnect it without damage?
And is there ample space to feed the old harness plug, and parts, from the damaged door intact? Or should I simply cut through the existing wiring harness, and splice every single wire, eliminating removing the internal parts and pieces of the existing working passenger side external damaged rear door. ie. Eliminate the need to switch door parts and pieces with the harness intact with plug attached???
(Totally not inclined to do the hack job of reassembly!)

Any helps to this end would be much appreciated, saving me the do it myself damage potential learning curve applying "well, this may work".

 

I think a couple pics would help us picture what your talking about. Im not familiar w that car but many cars come apart in same or similar ways so a pic or two will help

 

 

OK, Photos uploaded and show 3 separate distinctions.
- The cut wires on the used non-damaged replacement door. Question: To switch out a damaged door to the replacement, whether to simply splice on to 'em or do the right thing and access the plug-in in the body post between the doors.
- The, between the doors, body post which contains the wiring harness plug in from the individual back door.
- The trim pieces on the inside of the body post that would need to come off "if" there is additional access behind them to that wiring harness plug-in in the between doors body post.

 

I would guess the piece at the yellow arrow peels off and the larger plastic section in front of it is snapped into place w plastic clips.

the red arrow part is probably just snapped into place w plastic clips too

if no youtube help is availible

i usually try to ‘feel’ around under the panel w a thin screwdriver, you can carefully lift and feel to see where the fastners are i then try to place thescrewdriver next the fastener and gently pry up to pop the fastner out w no damage....that doesnt always work out onan older car.

first step is a good inspection to make sure there are no hidden screws that are not pop out type fasteners. Usually a door panel will have a small pop out panel and behind that panel will be screws, then typically the panel is held around the perimeter w pop out type fasteners.

i would splice those wires as a last resort if you can get use factory plugs its easier and better.

good luck, its not hard but it can be a little tricky.

 

 

RetroRanger,
Ay yup. Had neighbor look at the "yellow arrow" piece and he simply grabbed onto it with his brute strength and pealed/pulled it away from where it was simply pushed on. Still undecided whether to simply pay the "mechanic" that I got the car from to do the door switch since he is the one saying switch door internal components (about like it'd be as easy as tying my shoes) and do the plug in of the replacement wiring harness. The plastic full width post cover rattles around when the edge strip is peeled, but know not yet just how held in place.
The LSS seems to be "un"common enough that there's not many you-tube videos for it. My brain says the Delta 88 ought to be similar enough to the LSS, interior wise, but what do I know?
Still working on it and considering the doing of it. Neighbor ditto's just cut and splice the wires. Since there's every reason to believe same color coding, making for an easy match/splice.

 

Update to switching this door.
Removed inner trim (was just pressed in place) off post between the front and back doors only to realize there's no electric harness plug in there, (closest plug is under/in the flooring, dang, dang, dang!) in that post where the back door wire harness goes out of the door edge and into the between the doors post.
So, I started looking at unclipping the/all wiring connections in the door itself, then feeding all through harness access port on the door's front edge.
Phew! Well, thankfully, that simply worked peachy keen, with no need to switch out any door components, since all in the replacement door worked just fine once the electric harness was clipped back into each of them.

Then for door removal/install it was a fairly simple undo bolts of smashed door, redo bolts of unsmashed door, and bit of an adjustment for door closure latch line up. (And yes, an assistant comes in real handy.)

 

good deal thanks for the update