Mounting aftermarket racing seats?
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 913
Mounting aftermarket racing seats?
I am interested in getting a pair of racing seats from Summit for my 68 Cutlass 4 door to replace my current bench. Currently my daily driver and not looking to spend a lot on the interior I just want a personal seat when I drive. Anyway, I know these require a special bracket to mount. Does a custom bracket have to be welded together or can I buy something like this bucket seat mounts from Tamraz? I know these are made for stock GM bucket sets. Are these made to be welded on to the floor? I am trying to looking for the simplest way to do this as I do not have many tools or money to spend on this. Its only temporary at the end of it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1159-2
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1159-2
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,212
From: USA
My advice from experience is to never buy a seat unless you can sit in it first.
A $135 seat is going to give you what you paid for, a cheap rock hard seat.
Doesn't feel like foam, feels like folded cardboard. They're NOT comfortable.
The shipping costs would prohibit you from returning them. That's the catch.
I would suggest buying whatever seat you want AFTER sitting in it to verify it's
what you want, THEN take it to a shop and have them fab up new brackets.
I had my guy center my seats to my height, and welded new bolts in from the
bottom through the floor pan.
A $135 seat is going to give you what you paid for, a cheap rock hard seat.
Doesn't feel like foam, feels like folded cardboard. They're NOT comfortable.
The shipping costs would prohibit you from returning them. That's the catch.
I would suggest buying whatever seat you want AFTER sitting in it to verify it's
what you want, THEN take it to a shop and have them fab up new brackets.
I had my guy center my seats to my height, and welded new bolts in from the
bottom through the floor pan.
Last edited by Aceshigh; Jan 31, 2011 at 11:51 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6
Bucket Seats
YeaBuddy...you still foolin with those seats?
If you'r tired of the stock seats that make you slide about in turns & hurt your back after a few miles, and u'r a little handy, you'll luv the Summit's. I have a very nice '70 & didn't want to pay $300 ea for cheapest Corbeau, so bought the Summit's. Get the slider track kit goes with seats. It's two pieces for each seat; installed on seat you'll never be able to see & get hands in places to be able to align it all up, mark floor pan &drill holes. So, with the 2 frame rails mounted on seat bottom, weld a bar between the two rails (make sure you have the right/left correct). That will hold them solidly together. The back travel is real good, so place seat in car the closest you would ever want to steering wheel & lightly chalk-mark floorpan. Dismount rack from seat & place on floor close to your marks & as centered & straight as possible. You should be able to use 2 of the original bolt holes. The floorpan is not flat, so you'll have to use washers to make it all level. Drill where necessary to attach seat rack. You'll need longer bolts than supplied, use Y shaped head (think called Pan Head) cuz they fit under the slider mechanism better. Re-attach seat rack to seat & install in car. Use large, thick washers underside of floorpan & bolt it all up. The seats fit lower in car than those stratolounger originals, so to add height use heavy-duty rubber snubbers between the seat frame & seat, u'll probably have to drill own bolt hole thru the rubber snubber; oh, that's also why you'll need longer bolts. Passenger side a little harder 'cuz of floor distortions. Had mine 2 yrs now & love 'em, & although not the quality of my BMW they hold me a lot better than stock buckets & back doesn't hurt. And, most everyone think they look cool, at least that is what they say.
If you'r tired of the stock seats that make you slide about in turns & hurt your back after a few miles, and u'r a little handy, you'll luv the Summit's. I have a very nice '70 & didn't want to pay $300 ea for cheapest Corbeau, so bought the Summit's. Get the slider track kit goes with seats. It's two pieces for each seat; installed on seat you'll never be able to see & get hands in places to be able to align it all up, mark floor pan &drill holes. So, with the 2 frame rails mounted on seat bottom, weld a bar between the two rails (make sure you have the right/left correct). That will hold them solidly together. The back travel is real good, so place seat in car the closest you would ever want to steering wheel & lightly chalk-mark floorpan. Dismount rack from seat & place on floor close to your marks & as centered & straight as possible. You should be able to use 2 of the original bolt holes. The floorpan is not flat, so you'll have to use washers to make it all level. Drill where necessary to attach seat rack. You'll need longer bolts than supplied, use Y shaped head (think called Pan Head) cuz they fit under the slider mechanism better. Re-attach seat rack to seat & install in car. Use large, thick washers underside of floorpan & bolt it all up. The seats fit lower in car than those stratolounger originals, so to add height use heavy-duty rubber snubbers between the seat frame & seat, u'll probably have to drill own bolt hole thru the rubber snubber; oh, that's also why you'll need longer bolts. Passenger side a little harder 'cuz of floor distortions. Had mine 2 yrs now & love 'em, & although not the quality of my BMW they hold me a lot better than stock buckets & back doesn't hurt. And, most everyone think they look cool, at least that is what they say.
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