Rob,

I've read your threads about interior restoration and gathered a lot of information that would certainly assist me in my upcoming interior restoration campaign next summer. Thanks for spending time posting this good stuff.

I'm having all the interior parts I need ordered from various sources, including Legendary. Flooring items are about to be ordered. Do I understand from your decision to go for Dynamat that those Sound Deadener Packages offered by Legendary or Fusick are not good enough? Are they perhaps tar/asphalt based?

 

Thanks for the compliments.

The 'kits' sold at Leg or Fus are simply 1/8" thick roofing tar paper stuff that would not accomplish much. Probably as much or more than the lowly factory stuff did.

If you plan on driving the car long distances often, epecially when using the A/C in hot climates, i suggest something better. Fatmat, dynamat, or any of the non-asphalt peel 'n' stick deadeners would work much better. Visit your local hotrod shop or car stereo dealer - they will carry this stuff and you will not have to worry about shipping!

 

Hey I just used some stuff call Fat matt (fatmatt.com) seems to work great a lot less money than the dyno same stuff Im told

 

Glad to hear the fat mat works great with less cost. DM is way too expensive for what it is!

 

Ya I was blown away by the cost of dyno

 

I did a 79' Corvette with DynaMat Extreme and it made a definite difference in heat and noise in the cabin. Most of the noise was canceled out by the application to the doors in my particular car.

Richard.

 

I used the B-Quiet Extreme on my '72 Satellite. I was very pleased with the product.
The car was always so hot to drive. The heat reduction was amazing! And the noise reduction was very good too. All I did was cover the main floor section and hump.

 

This will be the next mod following the new floor pan. Thanks for the write up!!

Worried about getting a good install using a mat inside the doors.
Anybody have experience with the spray on stuff for inside the doors?

 

Here is where I did the inside of the doors:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post160519
The key to making this work is cut small pieces to stick inside, jigsaw puzzle style. Like insulation, you do not need continuous pieces to make the product work well. The more metal surface area you cover, the better it will work. Just remember to overlap the pieces to allow any water dripping down in the door from the window to roll off, kinda like shingles on a roof. Therefore start at the bottom of the door and work up. Do not cover the bottom 2" of the door to prevent any "soak-up" should the door drains clog.
I think it would be very difficult and messy to spray the insides of the doors.

One other tip is that this will add another 10-20 pounds to the door, so make sure your hinge bushings are not worn. If you need to remove or reinstall the door, put the matting in after it is hung for easier hanging of the door.