Hi Guys,

The dash in my 70 W car originally had the glued on chrome beading that ran around the perimeter of the dash. The beading is long gone but the semi-transparent yellow-gold glue remains on the dash. Anyone know a safe way to remove that glue residue without harming the vinyl dash? I was going to try the basic emblem adhesive/glue remover but figured that was probably made for exterior emblems, etc.....where you'd be removing glue from paint, not vinyl. So I'm not sure if it's safe. And the glue is so old and hard I'm not sure a solvent will touch it. Anybody been thru this or have any ideas?

Second question......I see all the new repop chrome stips for the dash are the push-pin type. I really don't want to go poking holes in my vinyl dash if the glue-on method works. Anyone know if the glue only method works??

thanks,
bob

 

Bob,

Interesting, I've always thought that the beading was installed with the pointy barbs from the factory. Does the 1970 assembly manual show it glued on?

Make sure to test the remover where any damage won't be visible. I've used Goo Gone to remove glue on vinyl interior pieces.

Good luck!

 

As far as the old glue is concerned, Goo Gone (citris oil) is usually pretty good at removing the old cement and adhesives. I would first try it in an area to make sure it does not discolor. You may have to let it sit for a day and come back and see if it looses it up. I recently restored a dash and used 3-M's (peel and stick) 1/4" chrome bead molding. I believe it is sold as wheelwell/ body trim. It bends nice around the curves and has been stuck inplace for the past two years. If the citris oil workes on removing the glue, you would have to make sure that you use some type of good cleaner to remove the oil. I ended up using a Q-tip with some alcohol in the groove before I installed my trim. If intrested, I have a black dash in the classifieds that was sent out and repadded. All mounting tabs and glove box bumpers are intached.

 

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replies.....I'll get some Goo Gone.

Joz, from what I understand the chrome beading was originally applied only with the glue in when the 1970 models came out. At some time either in late 70 or with the 71 model year the chrome beading was attached with the push in clips. I'm guessing it was a running change because the 'glue only' beading was coming off and people were complaining. I don't know if glue was used with the push in clips or not.

FJ, good idea about making sure the oil is completely removed. And letting it sit on there for a day or so. Being the impatient type I've got to remember that.

Thanks guys,
bob

 

I am about to install a new bead molding on my dash but I don't want to have to use the pointy barbs either as the dash is mint. It didn't have the molding on it when I bought the car, but there is no sign of holes from where the barbs may have been used before.

In my service manual it shows a picture of the molding and where it goes but does not mention how it is fitted.

I think I will use glue but I am not sure what is the best glue to use.

John

 

HI Yukon,

Not all Cutlass and 442 models had the chrome bead on the dash. My 72 W30 (Cutlass S) doesn't have the bead. I don't think F85s had it either. So I'm not sure what years it was standard equipment on....or if it could be ordered as an option on those that it didn't come standard on.

As for the glue......I'm wondering the same thing.....which is the best to use. I only want to do it once and I want it to last. And I don't want to poke holes in my dash either. The good news is there are a hell of a lot more glue choices today than there were in 1970.

If anyone knows the best glue to use.....please let us know.

thanks,
bob

 

The typical glue that is recommended is the 3M trim adhesive...but I don't recommend it. This stuff leaves long trails like spider webs behind that gets on other things and ruins them (It's as though the glue simply will not stop coming out of the tube in just a drop, but has a long thin trail attached.) Outside of superglue, I don't know what to recommend, only what not to try. Perhaps you could call a local trim shop and ask what they use. If they use the 3M stuff, and you decide to try it, then get the piece 20 feet from the car, apply the glue SPARINGLY, and then have a friend help you put the bead moulding on all at once.
Just my suggestion based on using that 3M stuff.

 

Hi 71 Cutlass,

Thanks for the info. When you mentioned 3M adhesive you gave me an idea. 3M makes double sided emblem tape in a variety of thicknesses that is the stickiest **** I've ever seen. I used it to install a hood scoop on my Escape and it's unbeliveable. Not saying that's the answer, but I'm pretty confident it would work.

regards,
bob

 

I am in the same boat. I bought one of the chrome beads and then realized my dash has no holes from previous barbs and do not want to add holes.
I am afraid to glue it on in fear the bead may not be quality plating and start to flake and look crappy.Then I will want to remove it and have to deal with glue.
But dog gone I really want to try it out for looks,I have a black interior and I do not have to tell you guys how good black and chrome look together.

I am so confused ...I want it...I dont want it

 

Hi W30-dreamin,

I'm sure a number of people on this forum have solved this problem, they just haven't chimed in yet. I think the chrome bead would look good, but I really don't miss it in my 72W. But I want to put it in my 70W because it came that way from the factory.

I hadn't thought about the possibility of the glue being good, but the plating being bad. Then the bead will pull from the plating leaving glue and plastic chrome on the dash. Not a good sight.

regards,
bob

 

Hi Bob,
Thanks for the words of encouragement (hoping someone will chime in with a solution).
We need something that will hold the bead secure but easily removed with no damage if decided the bead is unwanted.

Walter

 

I had my dash repadded at Just Dashes out in Ca. I sent out the after market chrome bead with barbs offered from most Olds suppliers and ended up having it sent back since Just Dashes refused to drill holes and install it. They did send me a roll of 1/4" chrome bead with peel and stick 3M tape. The bead surprisingly bent around cornors with no problem. I have had no problems with the adhesive over the last two years. Here is a site that I found that carries it. www.handsontools.com item 37-730 1/4" chrome wheelwell molding.

 

It's plastic...and I believe it's made like the bucket seatback and base plastics. Meaning the "chrome" part is sandwiched inside two layers of plastic...or at least has a layer of plastic on the outside. Not sure on the 3M stuff but that's how the factory beading was done.

The 3M stuff should be pretty durable as it's sold as a part to put on the outside of a car. I may try to find some here and take a look at it, compare it to the factory beading, etc. 3M typically makes great products.

 

Any solutions?

I've got a 71 dash with a LOT of holes where the barbs came out and were moved. I also happen to be in posession of an NOS dash molding still in the unopened GM box. I'd like to hear some good answer because the barbs don't seem to work over time.

C.J.

 

I think the barbs probably work fine....what you may see happening is the dashbead molding itself will shrink over time.

Check your new-in-the-box old GM part....it's likely too short now.

 

You may be right, Patton. I got it from the third owner back along with some more NOS and not-so-NOS goodies. Was told to lay it on the sidewalk on a Texas summer day before even unrolling it.

C.J.

 

I am convinced that would melt it or at least overexpand it.
The factory bead on my dash had shrunk over the years and popped off the barbs.
The residual glue is hard like plastic now.
Needless to say it needs replacement but not sure if I want to put more holes in it for new barbs...

 

I put NOS beading with the fasteners that came with it on mine and it fits and holds fine?
You don't drill holes for the fasteners, you push them through the vinyl, the reason they're called "nails".
They had no problems doing them on the line?
And they wouldn't of made the change unless there was a problem or it saved time/money, seems like the fasteners would take more time and cost more than no fasteners?

Whenever you have two different materials that have to be fastened together the differing expansion and contraction rates are always a concern and you never glue things like that if you can help it. The nail fasteners and slot in the beading allow it and the dash to move independently from each other, the correct technique. Gluing it is like asking for it to fall off, you can't glue to paint if the dash was painted and even if it's not painted the outgassing vinyl isn't a stable material to glue too.
Look at your car's windows after long term storage and and all that film fogging on the inside is from outgassing vinyl.
My Vista's windows were crystal clear when I put it away in the Fall and now they look like somebody was chain smoking inside the car all Winter.
Takes three days to clean all of them, there are eleven not including the vent windows.

 

Has anyone had any luck yet with adhesives or double faced tape? I too just hate to push those fastners into my 70 442 dash without the holes in it already.

 

I just went through this on my 71 442. This car was an early 71, with a glued on molding. I was replacing the dash pad anyway so I installed with the push pins in this fresh pad. It is tense but works. So I made the holes.
Olds came out with a Dealer Technical Bulletin Number 71-T-8 on Jan 25/71 to correct the "insufficient seal between molding and instrument panel vinyl". It is applicable to 1970 and early 71s.

Their correction is as follows:

1. Remove the original instrument panel molding being extremely careful not to damage the vinyl pad.
NOTE: with the use of a screw driver or the dull edge of a knife, pressed against the vinyl, the molding can be pulled away the instrument panel.

2. Clean off remaining sealer being careful not to damage vinyl.

3. Install retaining nails into the new molding (Pkg. Part No. 232289).

4. Install molding on instrument panel. Molding nails are self piercing.

They allow .5 time for repair and minor paint touch up.


So there you have it right from Lansing. You need about 16 pins to install correctly. They are a bugger as they tend to fall out of the molding if you install too many in advance. Of course the trick is to get the holes centred in the recessed area.
Remember you only have 1/2 hour to do this according to the Rocket engineers!

 

Ha, ha, ha, ha..... ---Good one!

 

The 3-M 1/4" wheel well /body trim with adhesive has been installed for the past two years with no adhesion problems what so ever. I was pleasantly surprised on how it bent around the two sharp corners. This has the same double sided 3-M body trim tape as mentioned above with the red peel off backing. I was skeptical about applying this on my refurbished dash from Just Dashes and was very happy with the out come.

David

 

I ended up using 3M double sided tape and it has worked very well, it has been in place for about 12 months with no major problems.

John

 

Hi guys,

Just a thought here. While I was at Carlisle in the fall I stopped by the Tech-Bond booth. Looked like your typical carnival type demo....you know the type.....welding rods that weld anything to anything....magic polish....etc. It was late in the afternoon and I was pretty beat, so I really wasn't in the mood to listen to a bunch of crap....but when I walked by the guy in the booth didn't harass me or call me over. So I went over. Most of the people had already left for the day, so this guy was a bit bored. I started asking questions and he gave me the pitch. He was glueing everything to everything....wood, metal, glass, vinyl, etc. So I asked him the $64,000 question. Will it glue chromed plastic (mylar) to vinyl. A silly grin came across his face and he reached under pulled out a piece of chrome bucket seat edging. He had glued the two ends together previously and now asked me to pull it apart. I couldn't. So I asked to see him glue the side of the plastic to a piece of vinyl. He put a primer (which he sells) on the vinyl first, then put the glue on and held it together for about 5 seconds.........and asked me to pull it apart. I couldn't.

I have to say I was pretty impressed. I didn't buy it because I'm not near the point of glueing on the new chrome dash bead, and I believe this stuff has a shelf life. He said he'd be back at Carlisle in the Spring and I'll check him out again in a few months. So this stuff might be the answer.

The guy's name was Donald Meyers and he's the General Manager of Tech Bond. His number is 877-565-7225 if you want to give him a ring. His website is ww.tech-bond.net.

take care,
bob