carnv0r

Hey all,

I was reading some posts about swapping out power window motor assemblies, and there was mention of a page in the BbF manual that shows the drill locations for 3 3/4" holes in the interior door panel to easily access the bolts for the window motor without having to remove the regulator.

Could anybody post a scan of that particular page?

TIA,

-J

mmurphy77

I posted that here recently. I don't have a scanner so hopefully someone can help you out with that. If not, you can actually see the bottom bolt between a thin gap in the door sheetmetal. Once you drill there to access that bolt, measure the distance and orientation to the other holes on the replacement motor then drill. The 3/4" hole is large enough to where if you are off slightly it's OK. I never used the 'template' from my Body Manual other than to get an idea of what to do. Once I drilled the holes, the motor swap took about 3 minutes! Good Luck!

carnv0r

thanks a lot, Mike.

I appreciate it.

-J

carnv0r

it wound up being just as easy as advertised.

i used a shears to cut a big enough hole to reach the bottom bolt, then eyeballed the locations of the other two. the pilot hole on the first one revealed that i was off 3/4", so i moved slightly, and the hole was perfect.

the third bolt wound up being under an uneven section of sheetmetal, and the hole saw/drill combo i was using skipped and broke the drill bit, so i used the shears on the part of the hole i had. it wasn't pretty, but the replacement of the motor was under 10 minutes, and most of that time was spent trying to get the plug in properly.

now my only problem is that the passenger side window is way faster than any of the other windows in the car. alas.

Lady72nRob71

The increased motor speed is interesting... What motor did you use? Brand? Place you got it?
Try to not run the window hard against the upper or lower stops, as damage to the regulator will easily result.
I have that issue with my fast windows. (Of course my repro regs are probably chinesium...)

carnv0r

Rob,

I think the increased speed is more of a side effect of the fact that the driver's side is still original (as far as i know). i got the new one from napa, i'm pretty sure it was just a rebuilt GM unit, though i didn't spend too much time trying to figure out exactly what it was once i verified that it was identical to the one that came out of there. (though the new unit was totally coated in black paint, where the stocker had bare/gray metal finish on maybe a third of the unit.)

i'll definitely be more aware of running it hard to the top and bottom; i never would have considered it a possible issue, so thanks for the tip.

Cheers,