How do you tell the difference between an original '70 - 72 sport steering wheel and the reproductions?

Also, what is the difference between the '70 - 72 wheel and those from later years?

 

Original sport steering wheel has numbers stamped on the grip.

 

The grain isn't an exact match on the repros compared to the originals.

Of course, you have to have one of each to make this comparison but that's what I have seen.

 

Most oem wheels are wore so much you can't really tell the original grain. I purchased one from Fusicks and it is really nice.

 

About an inch...

Actually, the A-body cars all used the larger (15.5"?) wheel from 70-77. The H-body Starfires used the smaller wheels from 75-79. All the large diameter wheels are black. Only the smaller Starfire wheels came in other colors. Of course, the Starfire wheels have very different faux stitching around the inner edge.

 

Thanks everyone.

So how would you describe the two grains? Is one smoother than the other?

I'm just trying to establish the originality of the sport wheel on my W-30. It was not factory installed, so I'm wondering if it's an Olds or aftermarket wheel. It is very smooth; I can't say I've ever noticed any grain on it.

 

Then it's almost certainly original. The factory graining is usually worn smooth on every sport wheel you'll ever see. It's the rare (read: expensive) factory wheel that still has graining. Every sport wheel I have (and I collected all of them long before there even were repros) is worn smooth except at the transitions to the spokes.

 

I am going to check mine and my neighbors out, I have a worn original and a brand new repo, he has one of the nicest originals I have ever seen. I'll check if I can see a difference

 

Like Joe, the only wheels I've seen (after attending a bunch of Olds shows, including the 100 anniv.) have virtually no grain at all if they are original...just like mine

 

From experience I'd say the biggest difference between an original sport wheel and the repro is that the repro doesn't have the grain worn off. I sold my original as soon as the repros came out, almost paid for the repro! Plus then you have a nice bright horn button emblem.

Here's how to install one in 30 minutes or less: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...all-repro.html

 

I installed a sport wheel from the Parts Place about 2 months ago on my 72 Cutlass. My dilema is when I put the horn cap on the horn wont work. With the horn cap off, pressing the horn contact it works fine. Any ideas?

 

So what you're saying is that if you remove the horn button and press directly on the spring of the horn contact ring, the horn works?

 

You got it Joe. Got me baffled. I'm thinking there's something wrong with the horn cap.

 

I've had a similar problem in the past. In my case, the outer rim of the button was hitting the steering wheel before the horn contact spring made electrical contact. That was a while ago - I seem to recall the problem was that one of the plastic rivets in the contact ring had broken. When you snap the button back on, check to see if it bottoms at the outer edge when you press it.

 

Checked the horn contact and no broken rivets. The horn button bottoms out on the horn contact spring, so when I push the horn cap it has nowhere to go. I'm thinking I have a defective or wrong cap. Never fails, such a simple operating system that wont work properly.

 

I know this might sound stupid, but the button only goes on one way. All thought it will go on any direction, but only work in one. Check the slots on the back of the button to the screws on the contact. The three have to be lined up. I also, pulled on the contacts up and away some.(like squeezing a tennis ball.) This help create some distance and hold the button better. I think. And if you are lucky like me it will be pointing exactly 180 degrees the wrong way.

 

I had the problem hamm36 described. Repositioned it and it worked fine.

 

For what it's worth, here's a couple of pics that might help to distinguish between the repro and original wheel.
The first pic is of a "T" in a circular depression on the backside of the original wheel.

The second is the part number molded in the vinyl at one of the spokes, also on the back side of the wheel.
I'm no photographer, but, both pics give a pretty good idea of the grain texture on the original wheel.
As you can see, the grain is pretty fine. I don't have a repro wheel to compare to.

Hope this helps answer some of the questions.

(This is the larger 15-1/2", 70-77 "A" body wheel, not the Starfire wheel)

Tmark-3118.jpg
4-SpokePtNo-3116.jpg

 

Thanks for the pictures. My wheel is 15.5" diameter, completely smooth on the side facing me (except for the spoke extensions, where I can still see grain), and still has plenty of grain on the back side. I see the two little circle impressions like in your picture, but it looks like a number 3 instead of a T. I can't find a part number anywhere on it. All in all, I'm convinced it's an Olds wheel.