I got it!
June 7th, 2013, 06:51 PM
#1
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Posts: 43
I got it!
I was here at the end of last summer and was going to pick up a 1975 H/O W30. Well things went wrong and I ended up not getting it. The guy who owned it still hadn't sold it and was told he had to get it out of the place it was so I picked it up for 1k.
The body is solid but has a little rust in front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side. I have to tear off the top and see what is wrong under there.
Besides that I'm not seeing any real issues with it. I think the steering wheel and the shifter are not the original but not positive. Well i'm sure the stearing wheel isn't because it's brown. The shifter I don't know and am not sure how to figure out if it's stock or not.
Now I need to fix the brakes and start making it run like a 455 should run.
It needs cleaning and a few interior parts, pin stripe etc. I'm not rich but want to get to work on this right away. So if anyone has some tips or suggestions I would greatly appreciate it.
The body is solid but has a little rust in front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side. I have to tear off the top and see what is wrong under there.
Besides that I'm not seeing any real issues with it. I think the steering wheel and the shifter are not the original but not positive. Well i'm sure the stearing wheel isn't because it's brown. The shifter I don't know and am not sure how to figure out if it's stock or not.
Now I need to fix the brakes and start making it run like a 455 should run.
It needs cleaning and a few interior parts, pin stripe etc. I'm not rich but want to get to work on this right away. So if anyone has some tips or suggestions I would greatly appreciate it.
June 8th, 2013, 09:11 AM
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 486
How can we help without pictures? Your car should have a Hurst dual gate shifter in it. The brown steering wheel could be correct, if you have a brown interior.
See how pictures would help here?
The rust spot in front of the rear tire is pretty common for the Hurst hatch equipped cars. It could be leaking in along the hatch weatherstrip (most likely) or a hole rusted through under the vinyl top. Again pictures would really help. If I haven't told you I'd really like to see pictures of your H/O.
See how pictures would help here? The rust spot in front of the rear tire is pretty common for the Hurst hatch equipped cars. It could be leaking in along the hatch weatherstrip (most likely) or a hole rusted through under the vinyl top. Again pictures would really help. If I haven't told you I'd really like to see pictures of your H/O.
June 8th, 2013, 03:59 PM
#15
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Okay, so there are some pics of it. The interior is black/white like the H/O is supposed to be but the steering column si a lightbrown/tan color.
It really looks worse than it is, the rust coming from the trim is all surface and there is lots of surface poking through the paint but nothing that will require more than a sand and primer before paint. The chrome also seems to be in good shape.
The wheel wells both have small spots(maybe 2 inches tall by 3 inches long) in front and behind them.
the car has 49k on it total. The tires are weather rotted bad since they are about 30 years old, I thought they were the originals but they are not. It looksl ike the center column has been swapped for some reason since there is an extra console in the trunk.
It acts weird though so If I turn on headlights the radio fades out and the turn signals come on but won't blink?
IT has all new a/c parts in it and I think it's 134 because of the types of connectors on it for charging.
I cleared out a mouse nest from on top of the intake, pulled the carb cleaned it up(everything in it looked in real good shape) and put it back on. Adjusted it and it purs real well. It also has HEI on it which I didn't expect.
It really looks worse than it is, the rust coming from the trim is all surface and there is lots of surface poking through the paint but nothing that will require more than a sand and primer before paint. The chrome also seems to be in good shape.
The wheel wells both have small spots(maybe 2 inches tall by 3 inches long) in front and behind them.
the car has 49k on it total. The tires are weather rotted bad since they are about 30 years old, I thought they were the originals but they are not. It looksl ike the center column has been swapped for some reason since there is an extra console in the trunk.
It acts weird though so If I turn on headlights the radio fades out and the turn signals come on but won't blink?
IT has all new a/c parts in it and I think it's 134 because of the types of connectors on it for charging.
I cleared out a mouse nest from on top of the intake, pulled the carb cleaned it up(everything in it looked in real good shape) and put it back on. Adjusted it and it purs real well. It also has HEI on it which I didn't expect.
June 8th, 2013, 04:46 PM
#17
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I just verified the VIN and it's all authentic.
Yea, for the most part just the lower spots around the wheel well are what needs attention. Before I do all that though, I need to get new rubber on it.
Do ya'll have any idea how much a cross member that will take a dual exhaust will cost? I've been looking but am not really sure what I am looking for. Pardon my ignorance but I haven't toyed with these guys a whole lot.
Yea, for the most part just the lower spots around the wheel well are what needs attention. Before I do all that though, I need to get new rubber on it.
Do ya'll have any idea how much a cross member that will take a dual exhaust will cost? I've been looking but am not really sure what I am looking for. Pardon my ignorance but I haven't toyed with these guys a whole lot.
June 8th, 2013, 04:55 PM
#18
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Also does anyone know how wide of a tire I can put on those rims?
Right now it has 235/70/15 on it. They seem like a good size but want to go a bit wider if possible. Also that is a real hard size to find it seems.
Right now it has 235/70/15 on it. They seem like a good size but want to go a bit wider if possible. Also that is a real hard size to find it seems.
June 8th, 2013, 09:20 PM
#19
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,295
A crossmember from a 73-74 GM A-body will work. Cutlass, Chevelle/Monte Carlo, LeMans/Grand Prix, Century. I think but not sure ElCaminos and wagons are different.
If you can get on 73-77olds.com they have a lot of information on such stuff. They're blocking new registrations because of a severe spam attack a few months ago. Also, Hurst/Olds Club of America www.hurstolds.com if you haven't checked there already.
Steering column has been changed. 73-75 H/O dash and columns were black except 1975 cars with Compaticolor interior and all 70-77 A-body 4-spoke steering wheels were black. Does the wheel have embossed "stitching" around the inner rim?
Check the headlight and parking light grounds on the electrical issues. Also the engine ground straps.
Where you from Tim? Gilliam combined with y'all sounds Vajenya/ North Carolina border area to me.
If you can get on 73-77olds.com they have a lot of information on such stuff. They're blocking new registrations because of a severe spam attack a few months ago. Also, Hurst/Olds Club of America www.hurstolds.com if you haven't checked there already.
Steering column has been changed. 73-75 H/O dash and columns were black except 1975 cars with Compaticolor interior and all 70-77 A-body 4-spoke steering wheels were black. Does the wheel have embossed "stitching" around the inner rim?
Check the headlight and parking light grounds on the electrical issues. Also the engine ground straps.
Where you from Tim? Gilliam combined with y'all sounds Vajenya/ North Carolina border area to me.
Thanks for saving it 
June 8th, 2013, 10:25 PM
#22
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June 9th, 2013, 07:11 PM
#23
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So I pulled off all four brakes today. Beadblasted calipers ran new lines from the Master Cylinder on down. The brake pads were almost brand new but both calipers were frozen solid. Pulled off the rear drums, put in all new springs, wheel cylingers and relined them. Had the drums turned but, I had to show the guy at Oreillys how to run the lathe...LOL! They said nobody turns drums or rotors anymore and just buy new. They let me do it for free since I showed them how to do it.
This QJet Carb is pretty nice and it's BIG. I'm thinking I will rejet it, pull the heads next weekend and put in bigger valves etc. If I can make them flow good that way I should be good(anyone have an opinion on redoing these heads?)
This QJet Carb is pretty nice and it's BIG. I'm thinking I will rejet it, pull the heads next weekend and put in bigger valves etc. If I can make them flow good that way I should be good(anyone have an opinion on redoing these heads?)
June 9th, 2013, 08:43 PM
#24
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Location: Dallas, Texas
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Very cool, thanks for posting all the pics. I didn't see one of the shifter though. It looks like you have the first edition Hurst hatches. It is hard for me to tell from the pics. I believe you have two of the original mud flap/gravel guards still in place too. If those are in good shape, they are hard to find. I'll be watching your thread as you fix up the car. Good luck with it.
June 9th, 2013, 08:50 PM
#25
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I've actually got three of the guards, one is in the back seat.
Right now I just need to get it right so I can drive it out to where I am going to keep and work on it. that way I can remove chrome and prep the body.
The Shifter is a dual gate. It's in great shape except it's missing the little **** for the slide plate.
Right now I just need to get it right so I can drive it out to where I am going to keep and work on it. that way I can remove chrome and prep the body.
The Shifter is a dual gate. It's in great shape except it's missing the little **** for the slide plate.
Last edited by Tim Gilliam; June 9th, 2013 at 08:54 PM.
June 11th, 2013, 07:40 PM
#26
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So... I picked up a set of E heads for it. They are in fantastic shape. I took em to my buddy's machine shop and he checked them out and said they were rebuilt not long ago.
The guy who had them was building an engine and never put it together.
I also found a set of Headman longtube headers that I am picking up tomorrow night. I'm assuming they will fit.
The guy who had them was building an engine and never put it together.
I also found a set of Headman longtube headers that I am picking up tomorrow night. I'm assuming they will fit.
June 13th, 2013, 09:22 PM
#27
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Orland Park, IL
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I was here at the end of last summer and was going to pick up a 1975 H/O W30. Well things went wrong and I ended up not getting it. The guy who owned it still hadn't sold it and was told he had to get it out of the place it was so I picked it up for 1k.
The body is solid but has a little rust in front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side. I have to tear off the top and see what is wrong under there.
.
The body is solid but has a little rust in front of the rear wheel well on the drivers side. I have to tear off the top and see what is wrong under there.
.
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