Why has this 68 Hurst not sold yet?
Why has this 68 Hurst not sold yet?
I've seen this 68 hurst for sale for a long time and nobody's pulled the trigger. What am i missing? here is the link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=140903280500
Screenshot2013-01-25at85412AM_zpsf11d48d7.png
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=140903280500
Screenshot2013-01-25at85412AM_zpsf11d48d7.png
Last edited by bondovian; Jan 25, 2013 at 05:58 AM.
I don't know it looks like a good car with a fair price. Have tried to sell anywhere else? E-bay might not be the best for that car. Have you tried Hemming's, that might be better. Economy is still not the greatest. Also 69 H/O's seem to be more popular tham 68's. I personally like the 68's better. One little thing I would list it as a H/O in the main header rather than a 442. my.02
Good luck with the sale
Larry
Good luck with the sale
Larry
And, not meaning to nit pick, but to a guy looking to spend 50K for a car it might put you off a little to see the radiator overflow hooked to the washer bottle. Again, NOT NITPICKING, just providing a possibility as to why the car hasnt sold.
just noticed that...Iwouldnt say that was nitpicking either, more like ''WHAT THE'' .... ????
red in 68, black in 69. a couple other little things wrong with it from a quick glance, if I wanted to nit pick. too bad I'm already committed to the W-31 resto as that has a lot of my money tied up otherwise I would look at having it shipped to the windy city. I did see that car listed for sale once before, real surprised it hasn't sold
Ebay is a funny place to sell. I have sold many cars there. Sometimes they will sell really fast and sometimes take months. Keep in mind it is only on there a short time and the fees are up there. So, listing it can get expensive. I have raised the price and had a car sell. I have lowered the price and had no response. It depends on who is looking, and that also means who has money. Ebay works great and sucks all at the same time. I too would look at other places to sell. Craigslist sometimes works. Auctions work sometimes too. It just depends on when the right buyer is in the right place to see it. We will be in the car swap meet and show season soon. It might just take a few months. The economy is not great right now so it takes time. Keep your chin up and use more places to list and promote it.
If all the body panels are original and it has never been hit or rolled the price seams fare. Under the hood there are a few things that do not look right.
Thermostat housing is wrong, both bat cables are black,the breather pipe that runs from the air cleaner looks awkward is that the way they were? As far as I know the GM stick on the door came much later true/false?
Thermostat housing is wrong, both bat cables are black,the breather pipe that runs from the air cleaner looks awkward is that the way they were? As far as I know the GM stick on the door came much later true/false?
Last edited by Bernhard; Jan 26, 2013 at 12:42 AM.
OK, I will nit-pick. For $50K, in addition to the washer/overflow issue, you also have the wrong master cylinder with a non-original coupling in the hardline to the front brakes, I don't see the stock metering valve either, so there's something going on with the brake system. Also, the dual gate stick is straight, which means it's a Pontiac shifter mechanism. All the Olds dual gates use a curved stick.
I hope one day my car as so few problems and issues.
Very nice.
The door sticker has tire pressures, not a VIN - it's not a "Nader Sticker"
Yes, that is a correct PCV tube for the unique 1968 system.
I see numerous EASY TO CHANGE detail "errors"
Very nice.
The door sticker has tire pressures, not a VIN - it's not a "Nader Sticker"
Yes, that is a correct PCV tube for the unique 1968 system.
I see numerous EASY TO CHANGE detail "errors"
Last edited by Octania; Jan 26, 2013 at 11:01 AM.
block numbers
Im going to try and buy this car if the motor is original. where are the date code numbers locate to verify the block, heads and intake? Other than the small stuff that can be fixed, I would like an original drivetrain. I might just pull the trigger.
Thanks! Jeff
Thanks! Jeff
To me the value of this car is if it a original H/O and if in fact it has all its original sheet metal and has not been hit hard. The block would not be as big a factor, I can see the diff,trans heads,intake etc wood be very important that they match.How much value is in the original block? All the little things that were poinetd out are not a deal breaker only hard part would be the shifter.
Good Luck hope it works out for you
Good Luck hope it works out for you
Last edited by Bernhard; Jan 26, 2013 at 11:48 AM.
Agreed, to an extent. In my opinion the matching #'s drivetrain may be the difference between a $40k - $50k car and a $75k - $100K car. Along with all of the major factors such as rust, previous body damage, matching #'s drivetrain (engine, trans & rear), basic originality and documentation can make or break the deal. The car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it, regardless of what the owner asks for. I'd have to see it in person but like Octania said it looks like all minute details that could be easily righted. That said, if I had the cheese I'd go for it myself.
OK, I will nit-pick. For $50K, in addition to the washer/overflow issue, you also have the wrong master cylinder with a non-original coupling in the hardline to the front brakes, I don't see the stock metering valve either, so there's something going on with the brake system. Also, the dual gate stick is straight, which means it's a Pontiac shifter mechanism. All the Olds dual gates use a curved stick.
Maybe that price point is kind of in a No Man's Land for now. Anyone who's got that kind of dough is going to want a car that looks really correct. in addition to all the other things mentioned obvious things like the dash pinstriping, and that unusual two tone paint on the inner fenders can all be fixed, but again it's work that the guy who can afford it might not want to do - he'll just spend the 80K and get one already finished. Just my .02
Actually (someone chime in here that knows for sure) I think Pontiac had the dual-gate before Oldsmobile. I think the Hurst dual-gate was in all 1967 GTO's when you ordered the Turbo 400 and console.

Thanks Joe, I thought I had seen one of those ads before, where the dual gate used a key! So the 1967 Pontiac GTO was the first factory installation of the famous dual-gate, not Olds. I think I had read too that the 1964 GTO was the first car to have a Hurst Shifter as standard equipment?
When I was looking for Hurst wheels about 5 years ago, I read how the 1965 GTO was supposed to get Hurst wheels as an option, and somthing about that the engineers said the wheels were too heavy for the suspension. I think they showed the 65 GTO in a magazine ad wearing Hurst wheels.
I also didn't know about the 1967 Hurst Grand Prix, which was sold at one of the Mecum auctions in 2011.
When I was looking for Hurst wheels about 5 years ago, I read how the 1965 GTO was supposed to get Hurst wheels as an option, and somthing about that the engineers said the wheels were too heavy for the suspension. I think they showed the 65 GTO in a magazine ad wearing Hurst wheels.
I also didn't know about the 1967 Hurst Grand Prix, which was sold at one of the Mecum auctions in 2011.
Passing on this car. I asked for numbers on the carb., dist. and block VIN. Owner stated the dist. has been rebuilt with petronix parts and stated he had different numbers for carb and block. So, Im still looking for just the right car for my needs. This Hurst, with its older restoration, missing parts and 50K price might be a fair deal for someone with all the correct parts but not me. Will keep looking.
We all like to "nit-pick", it's fun, sort of like a hidden object puzzle...
But let's be real on this car. Didn't dig into this one very hard, but having completed a frame-off restoration of one of these, to find a western rot free example with all it's original panels, good paint for $50k is a great deal.
It would cost near a third of that to properly paint and stripe on of these cars let lane do a bunch of metal work.
This car would be top notch with a few thousand dollars in details (from what I see in the pictures anyway....).
As for the block comments, I agree that it's the one thing that would keep a car from the top end price wise. Matching block is also one of the key documentation items for a 68 Hurst as its the only Cutlass body to get a VIN stamped 455 from the factory.
Good thing for the registry and the paint code.
This car not selling has to be the economy or there is something not in the description that keeps it unsold. If I was in the market, and it looked just as good in person, I would definitely feel good getting it for this price.
Joe
But let's be real on this car. Didn't dig into this one very hard, but having completed a frame-off restoration of one of these, to find a western rot free example with all it's original panels, good paint for $50k is a great deal.
It would cost near a third of that to properly paint and stripe on of these cars let lane do a bunch of metal work.
This car would be top notch with a few thousand dollars in details (from what I see in the pictures anyway....).
As for the block comments, I agree that it's the one thing that would keep a car from the top end price wise. Matching block is also one of the key documentation items for a 68 Hurst as its the only Cutlass body to get a VIN stamped 455 from the factory.
Good thing for the registry and the paint code.
This car not selling has to be the economy or there is something not in the description that keeps it unsold. If I was in the market, and it looked just as good in person, I would definitely feel good getting it for this price.
Joe
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