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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 06:14 PM
  #1  
starfire's Avatar
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From: Southeast Michigan
Carb Cleaning Question

I've decided to rebuild the 2bbl side draft Rochester carb on my '49 98. It has a lot of carbon buildup inside of it:

IMG_20130311_200326_zpsc49efa05.jpg

What's the best/easiest way to clean it? Spray carb cleaner? Something else?

Thanks,
Old Mar 11, 2013 | 06:23 PM
  #2  
GAOldsman's Avatar
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From: Perry, GA
Let her soak in here a bit



Then follow with carb cleaner spray w/ straw attached to blow out the passages.
Old Mar 11, 2013 | 06:28 PM
  #3  
MDchanic's Avatar
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Eww.

Spray carb. cleaner may work.
Proper carb soaking cleaner (sold in gallon, or, preferably, five gallon cans) should definitely do it.


I can't recall now, but I was told some years ago that soaking for a few days with either Marvel Mystery Oil or SeaFoam (don't remember which ) was very good at removing carbon.

Finally, though, the carbon in question is invisible with the carb. assembled, and does not interfere with air flow, so the simplest thing might be to clean it as best you can and then not worry about it.

- Eric

edit: GAOldsman beat me to it!
Old Mar 11, 2013 | 06:50 PM
  #4  
starfire's Avatar
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OK, this is my first carb rebuild. Will I need to soak all three parts (body, insert, lid) in the chem dip? Do I really need to clean anything or can I just replace the parts the instructions tell me to? The car ran very well, the carb was just leaking like a sieve.
Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #5  
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If you use the chem dip or anything similar don't put anything but metal parts in it. It eats just about everything else....................including latex gloves and skin
Everything must be disassembled thoroughly.
Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:23 PM
  #6  
GAOldsman's Avatar
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Also follow the instructions on the chem-dip and rebuild kit precisely and it should go without a hitch. As I always say.. "Do it right the first time and there will be no second guesses or redoing it again." And as always if you get stumped feel free to give us a shout. It should be fairly simple carb to rebuild as long as it is rebuildable. Make sure the shaft bushings(s) aren't egged shaped or excessive play side to side and such. It wasn't leaking from there I take it?
Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:26 PM
  #7  
MDchanic's Avatar
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Originally Posted by starfire
Will I need to soak all three parts (body, insert, lid) in the chem dip?
In for a penny, in for a pound.

Originally Posted by starfire
Do I really need to clean anything or can I just replace the parts the instructions tell me to? The car ran very well, the carb was just leaking like a sieve.
If it was running great, you can just give it a once-over with some spray cleaner and slap it back together - the leaks weren't because it was dirty, they were because the gaskets were shot.

Of course, now that you have it apart, I'd give it a proper cleaning.

- Eric
Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #8  
starfire's Avatar
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Originally Posted by GAOldsman
Also follow the instructions on the chem-dip and rebuild kit precisely and it should go without a hitch. As I always say.. "Do it right the first time and there will be no second guesses or redoing it again." And as always if you get stumped feel free to give us a shout. It should be fairly simple carb to rebuild as long as it is rebuildable. Make sure the shaft bushings(s) aren't egged shaped or excessive play side to side and such. It wasn't leaking from there I take it?
It's hard to say as I didn't get much of a chance to run it, observe, let it dry, run it, observe, etc. The entire outside of the thing was covered in gas when it ran, it seemed to me the top cover was leaking. I had the screws tightened down, but didn't seem to make a difference, but it did not seem to be leaking from only one or two spots like I would think it would if it was shaft bushings (crosses fingers). I'm sure I'll be back with many more questions. I plan on starting the soaking tomorrow afternoon.
Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:29 PM
  #9  
MDchanic's Avatar
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Soak all leather, cork, or cardboard gaskets in oil for a couple of days before assembly - they won't seal dry.

- Eric
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