my72vert

What oil should I use in my 72 Cutlass 350 4 bbl.

Lady72nRob71

Welcome! If you do a search here on oil, you will find LOTS of good topics.
For a stock motor, I would use diesel 15W-40 as long as you do not drive it in winters below freezing often.
Diesel oil had more ZDDP and detergents that regular car oil. ZDDP used to be abundant in car oil; now it is almost removed for emission reasons.

my72vert

Thanks Rob, good info. Much appreciated

goatwgn

Valvoline VRI is good as well, has ample zinc content for flat tappets.

Nilsson

x2 on the VR1, I use nothing but VR1.

71 Cutlass

Only oils I know that are good for flat tappets are Amsoil and Royal Purple in the 10w-40. Racing oils (ie VR-1), do not have the proper detergent levels for street driven cars but are manufactured for entirely different applications. Diesel oils were never recommended by GM as the oil of choice for your car, but were turned to b/c as Rob said, they had more zinc and phosphorous in them once the oil companies lowered ZDDP levels. This however has changed due to the new API rating system, so beware before you buy. The Amsoil and Royal Purple 10w-40 actually have the amounts of detergents, zinc, and phosphorus contained in them necessary for your flat tappet cam. You can request the documentation if you wish to see for yourself. That it is why I can only recommend those two.

Nilsson

VRI (not the non street legal) has less detergents then conventional motor oils. With that said 3000 mile oil change intervals are recommended. The VR1 not street legal has no detergents at all. There is a street version and strip only version.


I change about every 3000-3500 miles and my engine internals are spotless. The price is right as well for a good engineered oil.

my72vert

Thanks everyone for all the great info. I had actually picked up some VR1 racing oil 20w50 yesterday.The lable on the front of the container said "added zinc" so I went with that. I bought my Cutlass to drive on nice days and just cruise so I dont think I will need an oil with extrodinary characteristics, just something to protect the ol girls internals. I have to admit I'm a little confused now. It was so much easier 40 years ago when there were'nt so many products and choices. I liked the simpler times but those are gone.

Nilsson

These is also a 10w 30 available. Seems the Auto Zones and Advanced carry only the 20w 50. I order the 10-30 through O'Reilys by the case.

Take care

71 Cutlass

Why not buy an oil with the best of everything if you know it's out there? Without enough detergents...sludge,etc...without enough ZDDP...cam destruction. Seems everyone is looking for different results from the products they purchase, and different results is what we have seen.

my72vert

Amsoil or Royal Purple it is. Thanks again!!!

clean82cutlass

I just had my engine rebuilt and my engine builder recommended the Valvoline VR-1 20/50 after the initial break in. He also recommended Brad Penn, but that is much harder to find.

I had to rebuild it because I didn't know not to use newer synthetic oils with a flat tappet cam. Now, almost $2,000 later (more power of course ) I know better and will stick with the VR-1. Oh yea, the guy that built my engine builds engines for race cars all over the state and also uses that oil in his 700+ hp NA SBC drag car
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If it is good enough for that engine, surely it is good enough for mine!

71 Cutlass

"That engine" is not a calmly street driven car like the 72 Cutlass in question. Read the above discussion about oils for RACING (totally different application) and oils for street driven cars. Wondering if everyone actually reads all the posts in a thread or just jumps in randomly at a given point.

clean82cutlass

Yes, I actually do read the posts...all of them. The way I see it, if an oil can stand up and protect an engine that gets the snot beat out of it, it will certainly stand up to a daily driver and have no issues. I use the VR-1 race oil in my daily driven Cutlass as well. I drive it to work, the store, just to cruise, etc. I put about 300 miles or so on my car every week just driving around for play or going to work. The engine has no problems at all, and the VR-1 oil is available locally at the auto parts store that I go to all the time anyways. I never said that anyone has to use that oil, I only passed on a recommendation that was given to me by someone that is much more knowledgeable on the subject then I am. He also owns his own (highly reputable) repair shop and recommends this oil for daily driven engines with flat tappet cams.

Nilsson

vr1 race oil recommended for street driven cars and trucks ect ect. Then there is the race not for street use.

One version is excellent for street application and one for race only.

71 Cutlass

Never seen VR-1 for the street with all the detergents that street driven cars need. What is the product #, will gladly look it up and post a correction if I find it. When I called Val. CO. the rep said they did not have such an oil. But as I said, will look up the part for the street oil if given the info.
In referenece to the "Way I see it" comment...one must go by a manufacture's recommendations of their own product in order to be safe.

Nilsson

Valvoline part number VV205 for use in high performance passanger cars and race cars. I do not consider my 68 the average street car needing a bunch of detergents as I do not go 7500-10,000 miles between oil changes as alot of manufactures now recommend.

I change my oil every 3000-3500 miles and I don't deem it nessary to spend 9-$10 for a quart of oil. I just suggested an oil that would give all the protection needed at an affordable price.

71 Cutlass

Nilsson wrote: "I do not consider my 68 the average street car needing a bunch of detergents."

This is where we part company...I don't want sludge and other junk in my motor, so I prefer the detergents which these cars were originally made to have in the oil which was put in them. I cannot say for sure, but am betting other street drivers on this site feel the same way. As I said, different people are looking for different results from the products they buy. For me, I like knowing I have all my bases covered when it comes to my motor.

my72vert

The VR1 oil I bought is part# VV211. Not sure what that translates to as far as to what we have been discussing. I initially just wanted a good oil. I looked for an oil with added zinc per the advice of the members on this site. The argument made of having an oil with detergents is a viable one. I guess its a case of personal preference. One good thing is I got a great education on motor oil for older cars and for that I'm grateful

Bluevista

I guess I don't know nothin', I just go buy the owner's manual chart.

Regular old Valvoline 30 or 40 weight, never have had any wear problems and my engines are clean inside so I must be doing something right?
I don't overthink about it too much, "If it ain't broke don't fix it" and " Best to leave well enough alone" are my lifelong mottos.
Especially carburetors, extra especially yard equipment engine carburetors.
With that expensive stuff how can you afford to change it a lot?, that's no fun?

If you analyzed a lot of those newfangled oils you would find out that the main ingredient is snake anyway.

71 Cutlass

Blue vista,
Is your car stock? If so, much of this thread has nothing to do with your application. I too never noticed much of a problem using the owner manual oil recommendation with a stock camshaft that runs 16's in the 1/4 mile. As for the "snake" part of the issue, you are confusing Slick 50 with the vastly different engineered products presented here.

Gustav455

i also agree with the VR1, thats all ive used since my motor rebuild and everything is still spotless like the day i put the motor into my car. and i get on it every now and then in the big old 4000 lb boat and i havent had any problems. i drive that boat at least 3000 miles a month in the summer time, and paying 9 dollars for a quart of oil about every month would get way too expensive. theres a lot about this oil stuff, just find something you like or ask your local machine shop and kind of go from there.

71 Cutlass

I pay no where near $9 a month. With extended drain intervals 6k miles or so, it comes to virtually the same price as regular oil. Again, people are looking for different results from the products they buy.

Nilsson

My engine was rebuilt in 1999, it is as clean today as it was then on the engine stand. Again I change the oil every 3000-3500 miles. I don't abuse my car but I use it as it was meant to be used, so I don't baby it either. So vr1 has been tested and approved in my 68 (aka the Animal) and has the Nilsson seal of approval. I run my car an average of 5000 a year by the way and I might mention that I am partial to dino oil.

Peace out.

Gustav455

im the same way Nilsson, important to change the oil at 3000 miles. i do on mine, it starts to get that look that its done. also thats why i made sure i said i dont baby mine either, kids at night say wow that thing sounds like its got something, i say yeah, its a Rocket 350, then i light the tires and they say that sure is a powerful 350, then i open the hood, what the heck is that, that motor is huge for a 350, no kids its a 455, not the rice burners there use too lol. then they want me to race, but a 4000 lb 71 88 4 door hardtop is not really the best race car lol. i also tow stuff with mine with no problems, this weekend ill be towing a car from branson with my car, just did an oil change 100 miles ago so im ready for this trip.